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YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

NEW YORK • BOSTON ■ CHICAGO - DALLAS 
ATLANTA • SAN FRANCISCO 

MACMILLAN & CO., Limited 

LONDON • BOMBAY • CALCUTTA 
MELBOURNE 

THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, Ltd. 

TORONTO 



Yarn and Cloth Making 

An Economic Study 

A College and Normal School Text 
Preliminary to Fabric Study 

AND 

A Refer eyice for Teachers of Industrial History and Art 
in Secondary and Elementary Schools 

BY 

MARY LOIS KISSELL, A.M. 

w 

SPECIALIST IN PRIMITIVE TEXTILES, AND FORMERLY ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR 
OF HOME ECONOMICS IN THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 



Weto fork 

THE MACMILLAM COMPANY 
1918 

All rights reserved 






r^ 



6 



Copyright, 1918, 
By the MACMILLAN COMPANY. 



Set up and electrotyped. Published August, 1918. 



SEP -4 I9i8 



J. 8. Gushing Co. — Berwick & Smith Co. 
Norwood, Mass., U.S.A. 



/'-vv O I 



PREFACE 

The great waste by the clothing consumer due to 
ignorance of fabric values has called forth this college 
and normal school text-book on ''Yarn and Cloth Mak- 
ing." Its object is to awaken in the student a deeper 
appreciation for economic values. In following the 
evolving science of spinning and weaving one gains a 
new valuation, as well as a distaste for waste. 

The unique arrangement of subject matter makes it 
helpful also to teachers in secondary and elementary 
schools searching for material suited to their particular 
problems. Hitherto no one has presented in a con- 
secutive study the simplest methods of yarn and cloth 
making by peoples of lower culture. These are richly 
suggestive to the instructor of younger children. 

Teachers of industrial history and economics in- 
terested in tracing industrial growth and the "dynamic 
forces which mold society" will find the topics " Out- 
line " and " Economic Gain " in convenient form for 
studying the textile industry, which plays a role in 
social history second only to agriculture. 

A concise and systematic treatment of the subject 
will be valued by students of the industrial arts working 
out problems that need definite data as to implements, 



vi PREFACE 

processes and working principles related to the means 
and methods of manufacture. 

The rural school with limited appropriation, as well 
as the expanding city school, needing help in a wise 
selection of library books and stereopticon slides, will 
find the carefully rated bibliographies and reference 
lists of illustrations of indispensable service. 

Fresh knowledge of scientific facts concerning yarn 
and cloth making is being gathered by the general 
anthropologist, who needs the guide of a specialist to 
direct in this highly specialized field of textiles as to 
just what technical data are of moment and most im- 
portant to look for on the expedition. To him "Dis- 
tinctive Characteristics" and "Outline" will prove of 
assistance not only in his investigation and research, 
but in suggesting correct terminology to phrase his re- 
ports of the facts which he has gleaned. 

To the industrial museum official, the technical 
librarian and the textile mechanic the "Outline" topics 
should make "Yarn and Cloth Making" invaluable for 
desk reference. It includes in a nutshell a great wealth 
of related textile facts and data usable in the laboratory, 
library and museum for selecting and analyzing material 
and for its labeling. 

Acknowledgment is due to Anna la Tomette Blauvelt, 
who compiled the list of Books for Juveniles and assistsd 
in the compilation of the list of magazine illustrations. 
Credit is given for each illustration in the List of Illus- 
trations. 



INTRODUCTION 

At a moment when our country's thought is centered 
on conservation of resources, on economic preservation 
of health and human energy and on the development 
of the younger generation for the highest service to 
mankind, it is an apt season to consider lack in economy 
and useless dissipation along clothing lines. Social 
economists are stating that here is one of our greatest 
present-day wastes. To eliminate this loss and lessen 
wastefulness, the purchaser needs discrimination in his 
choice of clothing both as to the style or cut of garment 
and as to the quality of the textile fabric. It is the 
object of this text to deal with fabrics. Through arous- 
ing an interest in spending more wisely and with fuller 
return, whether in the purchase of cloth by the yard or 
in the ready-to-wear garment, this work aims to make 
a more discriminating consumer of the fabric. 

Textile study in colleges and normal schools to-day 
has a tendency to swing to exclusive fabric study and 
away from textile manufacture. This is the result of a 
previous too extensive consideration of manufacture 
and one unrelated to its economic bearing upon the 
product. Exclusive study of the fabric leads the student 
to think of the fabric in its "already-made" form and 
not in relation to the energies which bring it into being 



Vlll INTRODUCTION 

and the economic accomplishment of these energies. 
There is a general failure to recognize the underlying 
sciences, forgetting that fabrics owe their existence to 
the mechanical and chemical sciences. Previous to 
college fabric study some knowledge of these seems 
imperative. One cannot intelligently approach fabric 
problems involving chemical science without a general 
knowledge of chemistry. Neither can one successfully 
approach fabric problems without a little understand- 
ing of the dynamic power of mechanical science under- 
lying fabric making. 

The few facts of textile mechanics presented in "Yarn 
aid Cloth Making" have been assembled to supply a 
need for some knowledge of mechanical science pre- 
liminary to fabric study. In brief form, the course 
carries spinning and weaving from their crude beginnings 
into the machine processes. It is an intensive study of 
a narrow but fundamental field, with a focus upon the 
economic gain achieved as spindle and loom became 
more ef&cient in producing improved yarn and cloth. 
The plan was tested out at one of our universities and 
the results of the experiment far exceeded expectation. 
For, as the student followed the expanding science step 
by step and traced the definite gain in each progressive 
type, he gained two important things : a clear knowledge 
of good yarn and cloth, together with a rich appreciation 
of economic values. 

Nothing is more needed to-day to stem the tide of 
extravagant and wasteful expenditure in clothing than 
such an appreciation of fabrics. Art appreciation courses 



INTRODUCTION IX 

are found in many of our schools, not to educate artists, 
but to give future consumers the abiHty to surround 
themselves with good art. Educators know it is use- 
less to teach what is good and what is poor art, unless 
with it is instilled a love for the beautiful. It is just 
as fruitless to attempt a reform in clothing waste, with- 
out instilling a taste and desire for what is of economic 
worth. 

A great deficiency in our education to-day is that 
household science is not approached in- a more inves- 
tigatory manner. For in the atmosphere of inquiry 
and research is teaching most effective. When viewed 
from this angle the study of practical subjects furnishes 
a liberal education. Convinced of this the author hopes 
that "Yarn and Cloth Making" may be of wide use. 
Its suggestive and flexible arrangement adapts it to 
schools of all grades where the subject is taught, and to 
localities where instruction is given under widely differ- 
ing conditions. 



METHODS OF USING TEXT-BOOK 

a. As a college or normal school text "Yarn and 
Cloth Making" is preferably supplemented by outside 
reading as suggested in the section "Bibliographies." 
The subject matter is grouped in two sections under 
"Yarn Making" and "Cloth Making," each of which 
is considered in an opening descriptive text, followed 
by a series of Type Studies of the distinct varieties of 
spinning and weaving. Each of these types is presented 
under three heads : Distinctive Characteristics, a short 
clear statement of the salient points of the type ; Out- 
line, a plan giving details as to implement, power and 
process ; and Economic Gain, as to quality and quantity. 
Cross references are found after the various topics of 
the outline, calling attention to explanatory material, 
with corresponding numbering in the descriptive text 
under Yarn Making and Cloth Making. Accompanying 
each type is a specific Bibliography carefully graded as 
to fullness of text for this type. These bibliographies 
afford student, and teacher with limited time, rapid 
reference to the best books. Lists of Illustrations are 
supplied each section for clarifying the text and for 
slide making, and following the General Bibliography 
is the Magazine Illustration and a list of elementary 
books in which pictures may be found. 



Xll 



METHODS OF USING TEXT-BOOK 



h. When time is limited, the course may be shortened 
and yet the constructive sequence be maintained by 
combining into thirteen lessons as follows : 

(i) Sp. I, II, III, IV. Hand (8) 
spinning. 

(2) Sp. V, VI. Wheel spinning. (9) 

(3) Sp. VII. Spinning jenny. (10) 

(4) Sp. VIII. Water frame. 

(5) Sp. IX, X. Mule spinning. (11) 

(6) Sp. XI. Power spinning 

frame. (12) 

(7) W.I, II. Suspended warp (13) 

looms. 



W. Ill, IV. Two-bar 

looms. 
W. V. Two-beam looms. 
W. VI, VII, VIII. Shaft 

looms. 
W. IX. Perfected hand 

loom. 
W. X, XI. Pattern looms. 
W. XII. Power looms. 



c. Another means of shortening for classes with 
limited time is a selective one, using only culminating 
types. In this case the topic "Economic Gain" should 
be omitted, the deductions as to gain being drawn from 
the "Outline." 

(i) Sp. IV. Hand spindle. (6) W. IX. Perfected hand 

(2) Sp. VI. Flax wheel. loom. 

(3) Sp. IX. Hand mule. (7) W. XI. Jacquard hand 

(4) Sp. XI. Power spinning loom. 

frame. (8) W. XII. Pov>^er loom. 

(5) W. V. Two-beam looms. 

d. A narrower selection gives the fundamental prin- 
ciples of spinning and weaving in four lessons, consider- 
ing "Distinctive Characteristics" and "Outline" only. 

(i) Sp. IV. Hand spindle. (3) W. V. Stretched warp 

(2) Sp. VI. Spinning wheel. loom. 

(4) W. IX. Perfected hand 
loom. 



METHODS OF USING TEXT-BOOK xiii 

e. Elementary schools can use simple selections from 
the "Outline" of 

(i) Spinning III. Navajo In- (2) Weaving V. Navajo In- 
dian spinning. dian weaving. 

/. Secondary schools will find helpful : 

(i) Sp. V, VI. Colonial spin- (3) W. IX. Colonial weaving. 

ning. (4) W. XI. Power weaving 

(2) Sp. X, XI. Power spinning (very simply). 

(simply) . 

g. Elementary industrial arts will find suggestive 
for construction work : 

Sp. ni, IV, V, VI and Weaving I, II, III, IV, V, VI. 

h. As few as three reference books may be used with 
this study, although more makes a far richer course. 
Most libraries have in the general stacks three exceed- 
ingly helpful books : Encyclopaedia Britannica, New 
International Cyclopedia and National Museum Report 
of 1914. With these the best books follow: 

3. Barlow, "History of weaving"; Marsden, "Cotton spin- 
ning " ; Kissell, " Fabrics from primitive looms." (In prep.) 

5. Marsden, "Cotton weaving"; Hooper, "Hand-loom weav- 
ing." 

7. Ure, "Cotton manufacture"; Baines, "Cotton manufac- 
ture." 

9. Foreman, "Stories of useful inventions"; Woolman and 

McGowan, "Textiles." 
13. Murphy, "The textile industries," II, III, IV, V. 
15. James, "Worsted manufacture"; Wilkinson, "Story of the 
cotton plant." 



XIV METHODS OF USING TEXT-BOOK 

17. Earl, "Home life in colonial days"; Blount, "Story of 

home-spun web." 
19. Beaumont, "Wool manufacture"; Mason, "Origin of 

inventions." 

Note. — The Outlines digress from the usual numeral and 
letter classifications. Here the capital and small letters are re- 
served for different varieties under the type and the numerals for 
processes common to all varieties. 

Titles are omitted from the Illustration lists ; they are given in 
full, however, in the Bibliographies. The bracketed numerals 
are inserted for their identification. 



SUGGESTIVE PLAN FOR STUDY 
I. HAND SPINNING 

1. Select from the library one or two books from the 

specific "Bibliography" under Spinning I. 

2. Read "Yarn Making" right-hand reference numbers 

I to 7 for general introduction to spinning. 

3. Read "Distinctive Characteristics" to get general 

survey of Hand Spinning. 

4. Under Outline follow the various topics, and read 

from selected books on these topics to enlarge 
grasp of subject. 

5. Where cross reference numbers appear in the Out- 

line, look up corresponding right-hand numbers 
under "Yarn Making." 

6. Read "Economic Gain" and enlarge upon that given. 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Preface v 

Introduction vii 

Methods of Using Text-Book xi 

Suggestive Plan for Study xv 

YARN MAKING 

Textile beginnings. Mastery over forces of nature. 
Early invention. Origin of spinning. Its story 
and unfolding. Spinning defined. Yarn char- 
acteristics. Economic progress. Attenuating 

AND attenuating DEVICES. TwiSTING AND TWISTING 

devices. Winding and winding devices. De- 
veloping AGENCIES . I 

SPINNING TYPES 

I. Hand Spinning i8 

II. Grasped Hand Spindle 21 

III. Supported Hand Spindle 24 

IV. Suspended Hand Spindle 29 

V. Jersey and Asiatic Wheels 36 

VI. Saxony Wheel . . . . . . -43 

VII. Jenny Frame 51 

VIII. Water Frame 56 

IX. Hand Mule 59 

xvii 



xviil CONTENTS 

PAGE 

X. Self-acting Mule 64 

XI. Flyer, Cap and Ring Spinning Frames . . 71 

CLOTH MAKING 

Origin and crude beginnings. Weaving defined. 
Rudimentary efforts at invention. Weaving 
processes. Warp arrangement — Stretching — 
Lengthening. Wefting — Shedding and Shed- 
ding devices — Picking and picking devices — 
Battening and battening devices. Loom frame. 
Warping. Developing agencies .... 80 

WEAVING TYPES 

I. One-Beam Loom 114 

II. Weighted Warp Loom 119 

III. Two-Bar Loom 126 

IV. Frameless Two-Bar Loom 130 

V. Two-Beam Loom 136 

VI. One-Shaft Loom 149 

VII. One-Shaft Treadle Loom 153 

VIII. Two-Shaft Treadle Loom 158 

IX. Perfected Hand Loom 168 

X. Draw Loom 185 

XI. Jacquard Loom 192 

XII. Plain Power Loom . . . . . .199 

Appendix A — General Bibliography .... 207 
Appendix B — Magazine Illustrations . . . .216 
Appendix C — Books for Juveniles with Additional 

Illustrations . . . . . . . . 227 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
AND THEIR SOURCE 

FIG. PAGE 

1. Hand-on-thigh spinning, Philippine Islands . . .18 

Worcester, D. C. "Non-Christian tribes in northern 
Luzon." Philippine Journal of Science. 

2. Simplest spindle spinning, Salish Indians . . .22 

Kissell, M. L. "A new type of spinning in North 
America." American Anthropologist. 

3. Ancient Egyptian twine maker . . . . .22 

Champollion, J. F. "Monuments de I'Egypte et de 
la Nubie." Paris. 

4. Navajo method of spinning 24 

Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." Bureau of 
American Ethnology. 

5. Kwakiutl Indian spinner 25 

Photograph, Field Museum. 

6. Ancient Egyptian spinners, Middle Kingdom . . 29 

ChampolKon, J. F. "Monuments de I'Egypte et de la 
Nubie." Paris. 

7. Suspended-spindle spinning, Hungary .... 30 

Malonyay, D. "A Magyar n6p miivlszete." Paris: 
Magyar Irod. Intezet es Konyvnyomda. 

8. Spinning in the Alps, about 1000 B.C., 30 . . . 30 

Forrer, R. "Reallexikon." Berlin: W. Spemann. 
xix 



XX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FIG. PAGE 

9. Winding yarn on spindle, Algeria . . . -31 

Schurtz, H. " Urgeschichte der Kultur." Leipzig: 
Bibliographisches Inst. 

10. Earliest spinning wheel, India .37 

Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture." London: H. 
Fisher, R. Fisher and P. Jackson. 

11. Jersey hand wheel, Europe 38 

Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe: 
F. Gutsch. 

12. Spinning cotton on Saxony wheel 44 

Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan, 
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London. 

13. Spinning flax on Saxony wheel 45 

Hirth, G. "Bnderbuch." Leipzig. 

14. Leonardo da Vinci's spindle, 1 500 46 

Lindner, G. "Spinnerei imd Weberei." Karlsruhe: 
F. Gutsch. 

15. Saxony spindle, 1530 46 

Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe: 
F. Gutsch. 

16. Saxony spindle at work 47 

Blount, Mrs. G. "The story of the homespun web." 
London : Vineyard Press. 

17. High's Jenny, first multiple spinning, 50 . . .50 

Guest, R. "Cotton manufacture." Manchester: J. 
Pratt. 

18. Hargreaves' improved Jenny . . . . .51 

Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." New York: 
The Macmillan Co. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xxi 

FIG. PAGE 

19. Cross section of Hargreaves' Jenny .... 52 

Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe: 
F. Gutsch. 

20. Spindle of Jenny, 53 

Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe: 
F. Gutsch. 

21. Arkwright's first Waterframe 56 

Lamoitier, P. "Triage, peignage filature de la laine 
peignee." Paris : Dunod et Pinat. 

22. Arkwright's improved Waterframe . . . -57 

Woolman and McGowan, "Textiles." New York: 
The Macmillan Co. 

23. Crompton's Hand mule 60 

Lamoitier, P. "Triage, peignage filature de la laine 
peignee." Paris : Dunod et Pinat. 

24. Cross section of Hand mule, 61 . . . . .61 

Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe: 
F. Gutsch. 

25. Four stages of mule spinning 65 

Zipser, J. "Textile raw materials." London: Scott, 
Greenwood & Sons. 

26. Cross section, Flax spinning frame . . . .71 

Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe: 
F. Gutsch. 

27. Flyer spindle 72 

Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe: 
F. Gutsch. 

28. Ring spindle ........ 73 

Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe: 
F. Gutsch. 



XXU LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FIG. PAGE 

29. Cap spindle 73 

Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." New York: 
The Macmillan Co. 

30. One-beam loom, North America 114 

Photograph, Field Museum. 

3 1 . Wool weaving on One-beam loom 115 

Photograph, American Museum. 

32. Measuring staff . . . . . . . • nS 

Emmons, G. "The Chilkat blanket." American 
Museum. 

^$. Method of attaching warp to beam . . . .116 
Emmons, G. "The Chilkat blanket." American 
Museum. 

34. TwiUed twining and one method of joining strands in 

pattern making . . . . . . . .116 

Emmons, G. "The Chilkat blanket." American 
Museum. 

35. An Alpine weaver, about 1000 B.C. .... iig 

Kimakowicz-Winnicki, M. v. " Spinn- und Webewerk- 
zeuge." Wiirzburg : C. Kabitzsch. 

36. Greek weaver, 500 B.C., British Museum vase . . 120 

Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan, 
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London. 

37. Circe loom on Greek vase in Ashmolean Museum . .120 

Hooper, L. "Technique of Greek and Roman weav- 
ing." Burlington Magazine. 

38. A bit of Penelope's loom, 500 B.C., from an Etruscan 

vase, Chiusi Museum . . . . . . .121 

Hooper, L. "Technique of Greek and Roman weav- 
ing." Burlington Magazine. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XXlll 

FIG. PAGE 

39. Scandinavian Weighted warp loom . , . .122 

Roth, H. L. "Ancient Egyptian and Greek looms." 
Bankfield Museum. 

40. Weighted warp loom of Iceland 123 

Olafsen, 0. "Economic tour of Iceland." Dres- 
den. 

41. Simple Two-bar loom, South America . . . .126 

Ephraim, H: "Veber die Entwicklung der Webe- 
technik." Leipzig : K. W. Hiersmann. 

42. Another crude Two-bar loom from South America . 127 

Ephraim, H. "Veber die Entwicklung der Webe- 
technik." Leipzig : K. W. Hiersemann. 

43. Salish Indian family scene : Blanket weaving . .128 

Kissell, M. L. "A new type of spinning in North 
America." Am. Anthropologist. 

44. Two-bar loom. West Africa . . . . . .129 

Roth, H. L. "Studies in primitive looms." Blank- 
field Museum. 

45. Navajo woman weaving belt 130 

Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." Bureau Ameri- 
can Ethnology. 

46. Indian belt loom, Mexico 131 

Photograph, American Museum. 

47. Warping for Navajo belt 132 

Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." Bureau Ameri- 
can Ethnology. 

48. The shed-rod and rod-heddle 132 

Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan, 
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London. 



XXIV LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

riG. PAGE 

49. Rod-heddle and shed-rod at work. . . .. .133 

Roth, H. L. "Studies in primitive looms." Bank- 
field Museum. 

50. Egyptian mat loom 136 

Champollion, J. F. "Monuments de I'Egypte et de 
la Nubie." Paris. 

51. Egyptian linen loom, Middle Kingdom .... 137 

Champollion, J. F. "Monuments de I'Egypte et de la 
Nubie." Paris. 

52. Slave Indian quill belt loom 138 

Roth, H. L. " Studies in primitive looms." Bankfield 
Museum. 

53. Navajo method of warping for blanket weaving , . 139 

Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." Bureau Ameri- 
can Ethnology. 

54. Navajo loom . 140 

Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." Bureau Ameri- 
can Ethnology. 

55. Zuiii belt weaver entering weft ..... 148 

Mason, O. T. "Primitive frame for narrow fabrics." 
National Museum. 

56. Hopi belt weaver opening upper shed .... 149 

Stevenson, M. "Zuni Indians." Bureau American 
Ethnology. 

57. Evolving heddle-harness, Ceylon 154 

Coomaraswamy, A. K. "Mediaeval Sinhalese art." 
Broad Campden, Gloucestershire. 

58. Early Korean loom . . . . . . • 1 54 

Ephraim, H. " Entwicklung der Webetechnik." Mus. 
fiir Volkerkunde zu Leipzig. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XXV 

FIG. PAGE 

59. Early Chinese loom 155 

Ephraim, H. " Entwicklung der Webetechnik." Mus. 
fiir Volkerkunde zu Leipzig. 

60. Another crude loom from India 1 59 

"Portfolio Indian Art." South Kensington Museum. 

61. Outdoor loom of the HiUs, India . , . .160 

"Portfolio Indian Art.". South Kensington Museum. 

62. West African weaver at crude Two-shaft treadle loom . 162 

Roth, H. L. "Studies in primitive looms." Bank- 
field Museum. 

63. Stake warping, India 163 

Watson, J. F. "The textile manufactures and cos- 
tumes of the people of India." London. 

64. Egyptian loom, Middle Ages . . . . .164 

Gilroy, C. G. "History of silk, cotton, linen and 
wool." 

65. A shawl loom, Asia ....... 165 

" Portfolio Indian Art." South Kensington Museum. 

66. Greek loom of Middle Ages 169 

Montfaucon, B. " L'antiquite expliquee et representee 
en figures." Paris : F. Delaulne. 

67. Perfected hand loom with fly-shuttle . . . .170 

Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." MacmiUan, 
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London. 

68. Hand shuttle 171 

Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan, 
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London. 

69. Fly-shuttle 171 

Hooper, L. . "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan, 

U. S. A., and John Hogg, London. 



XXVI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FIG. PAGE 

70. Peg warping, India 173 

"Portfolio Indian Art." South Kensington Museum. 

71. Hungarian peasant warping 174 

Malonyay, D. "A Magyar nep miiveszete." Paris: 
Magyar Irod. Intezet es Konyvnyomda. 

72. Loom prepared for entering 175 

Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan, 
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London. 

73. Shed opening mechanism 176 

Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan, 
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London. 

74. Hand shuttle at work 176 

Hooper, L. "Hand-loom weaving." Macmillan, 
U. S. A., and John Hogg, London. 

75. Fly-shuttle at work . 177 

Barlow, A. "The history and principles of weaving." 
London : Sampson Low, Marston & Co. 

76. Drop-box fly-shuttle 178 

Schams, J. "Handbuch der Weberei." Leipzig: 
B. F. Voigt. 

77. Chinese draw loom 184 

Gilroy, C. G. "History of silk, cotton, linen and 
wool." 

78. Japanese weaver beating-up weft and throwing shuttle 1S5 

"Shokunin Burni," 1770. International Studio. New 
York : John Lane Co. 

79. Diagram showing action of two harness systems . .186 

Barlow, A. "The history and principles of weaving." 
London : Sampson Low, Marston & Co. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XXVll 

FIG. PAGE 

80. Two systems of harness . . . . . .187 

Barlow, A. "The history and principles of weaving." 
London : Sampson Low, Marston & Co. 

81. Diagram of European draw loom . . . . .189 

Barlow, A. "The history and principles of weaving." 
London : Sampson Low, Marston & Co. 

82. Silk warping in ancient China. . . . . .190 

Franke, O. "Keng tschi t'u Ackerbau und Seiden- 
gewinnung in China. " Hamburg : L. Friederichsen. 

83. Jacquard hand loom, 1804 193 

Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." 
Washington. 

84. Jacquard mechanism 194 

Lindner, G., "Spinnerei und Weberei." Karlsruhe: 
F. Gutsch. 

85. The Jacquard at work 195 

Haussner, A. "Technologie der Faserstoffe." Leip- 
zig : F. Deuticke. 

86. Cartwright's first power loom, 1785 .... 199 

Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." 
Washington. 

87. Cartwright's second power loom, 1786 .... 200 

Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." 
Washington. 

88. Working parts of power loom 201 

Reiser, N. "Handbuch der Weberei." Leipzig: A. 
Felix. 

89. Robert's loom, side elevation, 1830 . . . .202 

Marsden, "Cotton weaving." London: George Bell 
& Sons. 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



YARN MAKING 

The story of fabric making through its long and 
varied development is a fascinating tale which 
reads Uke a fairy legend inspired by some magic 
genii. Even in earliest times man has had a desire 
to conquer the forces of nature, to harness and 
control them for his good. In primitive man this 
desire was so strong that he appealed to the spirit 
world for aid : to the spirits of earth and sky, to 
the supernatural power in plants and animals. 
Likewise ancient and medieval man sought the help 
of " good fairies, and good-natured giants, wishing 
caps, seven league boots, magic rings, invisible 
cloaks and magic wands." No doubt the behef in 
these supernatural powers was an inspiration to man 
as he pushed forward to conquer, but the real im- 
pulse which stimulated the existence and growth of 
industry, including the textile arts, was grim neces- 
sity. The magic force which made possible its 
achievement was man's inventive faculty respond- 
ing to economic pressure. Fabric making did not 
advance along the highroad of easy success. With 
many hindrances and failures, by much experiment- 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

ing and testing it struggled on to successful accom- 
plishment, as outlined in the following text and 
pictured in the accompanying illustrations. How- 
ever, no chronological sequence in development is 
claimed, or one that is found in a single locality. 

In these pages we will find that in no other in- 
dustry has man obtained a greater mastery over the 
forces of the earth than in fabric making. For 
whether by means of the first awkward implements 
guided entirely by hand, or by means of highly 
developed self-acting tools obedient to power, he 
has so harnessed nature's forces as to utilize the life 
about him, both plant and animal, in supplying his 
need for textiles. Crude beginnings are always 
interesting, and no exception to this are the rude 
attempts of people of lower culture at yarn and 
cloth making. Life with them was very free and 
simple, while their daily wants did not exact arts 
of great complexity. At these rudimentary textile 
industries primitive man took a hand in some local- 
ities, and woman in other localities. How these 
native spinners and weavers so cleverly devised 
ways and means for handhng the fibers about them 
will always remain a wonder. Admiration and 
wonder are aroused not only because of the marvel- 
ous feats accomplished, but because of pliabihty in 
the outcome. Mystery hovers near the birth of 
every practical invention be it primitive or modern ; 
uncertainty, doubt, surround it. Will it prove 
successful? Will it efficiently meet the necessity? 



YARN MAKING 3 

Directly, or indirectly, these questions are of prac- 
tical and universal interest, as much to the con- 
sumer as to the producer. But life did not remain 
simple. " When man became a civilized being his 
needs increased with his culture," and are still ex- 
tending, an extension vividly reflected in his textile 
arts. 

Yarn means to most of us the filaments of which 
cloth is made, its warp and weft. But twisted fila- 
ments had another and an earlier signifi- gariy 
cance to primitive peoples, since twisted Spinning 
strands in the shape of lines, and lines worked into 
nets for fishing and trapping wild animals, as well 
as cords and string for fastening, joining and haft- 
ing, helped supply man's initial need for food. For 
purposes of this kind he first gathered slender trail- 
ing vines, twigs and grasses that grew about him, 
using them in their natural state. Later he learned 
how to prepare materials better fitted for binding, 
tying and sewing. Disintegrating leaves, stems 
and bark might easily have suggested the artificial 
extracting of vegetable fiber for this, while the skins 
and tendons from animals killed on the hunt might 
very naturally have suggested their stripping into 
thong and sinew for the same purpose. 

But whatever the function, or the material, these 
early cords and yarns were always twisted. We 
have no record of how twist first origi- origin of 
nated, or who was its inventor. But we Spinning 
do know that in a far distant epoch of the remote 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

past some " untutored savage " did think out this 
greatest factor in spinning. Long before civilization 
dawned, early peoples had solved many of the fun- 
damental difficulties connected with spinning, for 
wherever traces of prehistoric man have been found 
there are remains of spun threads, or of spinning 
implements. These prehistoric threads found many- 
uses in fishing and hunting; for carrying earthen 
vessels and other heavy objects; in navigation, 
house building and cloth making. Indeed it was 
the art of spinning which first gave value to the art 
of loom weaving by supplying it with threads of 
any desired length, strength and flexibihty. It is 
yarn for this use, yarn for loom weaving, that 
concerns us here. 

Spinning consists of binding together a number of 
loose filaments into one strand by means of twisting. 
Spinning Its object is to extend and arrange the 
Defined loose fibers in a somewhat parallel order, 
and to bring them into close contact so as to impart 
greater strength and power to resist strain. To 
accomplish this, the material to be spun must pass 
through three processes : attenuation, twisting and 
winding. Attenuation pulls out the fibers length- 
wise, arranging them more nearly parallel and length- 
ening the strand ; twisting compresses the fibers so 
that they He in close contact and binds them; 
winding cares for the spun yarn. 

The essentials of good yarn are strength, firmness 
and soHdity, quahties which require that the attenu- 



YARN MAKING 5 

ation be regular, that is, free from knots and weak 
places ; that the twist be of the correct amount and 
evenly distributed ; and that the relation Yarn char- 
between the degree of attenuation and acteristics 
twist be carefully adjusted. Twisting weakens 
fiber in proportion to the amount of twist put in, 
so in yarn it is not possible to secure the fiber's full 
strength. However, strength of yarn does not 
depend entirely upon the toughness of fiber, since 
the strain usually falls upon a longer stretch than 
the length of individual fibers. Weakness therefore 
results from a sHpping of the filaments upon each 
other rather than from lack of inherent strength. 
It is the twist which remedies this slipping and 
makes twist such an important factor in spinning. 
Resistance to breakage strain in addition to the 
above ways may be secured by a sustained round- 
ness and a uniformity in the diameter of the yarn. 
Throughout the long period during which spin- 
ning was being brought to perfection, man worked 
for three objects : better yarn, more yarn gpi^ning 
and yarn produced at less expense. How Deveiop- 
these three were attained is traced here 
through spinning by hand, hand spindle, wheel, 
frame and machine. Attention will always be 
directed to the mechanical science involved and to 
the economic progress in the finished yarn. The 
unfolding from simple beginnings was slow, extend- 
ing over centuries. At times long unbroken inter- 
vals of calm passed when advance was slight and 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

improvement was gradual. Then sudden bursts of 
energy from some economic cause would produce 
phenomenal changes. The Industrial Revolution 
was such a period of progress and prolific invention. 
Improvement in quality was dependent largely on 
more perfect methods of attenuation, twisting and 
winding, as observed under the Distinctive Char- 
acteristics and Improved Product of the various 
spinning types. Increase in output was controlled 
by a number of agencies. Prominent among these 
were the combining of the spinning processes, im- 
proved power, the perfecting of the spinning imple- 
ment and its propelling mechanism, as seen under 
Distinctive Characteristics, Increased Production 
and OutUne of the spinning types. 

Attenuation 

The first process in spinning is attenuation, or 
drafting. It is of two kinds : drafting by stretch- 
Drafting ^^S ^^^ drafting by drawing. In the first 
Methods the tension is on greater lengths of rove 
and the draft more or less uneven and 
irregular, whereas in the second the tension is on 
shorter lengths and the draft more even. But the 
best method is a combination of the two, giving the 
rove both a drawing and a stretching. When con- 
sidering the means employed in this process we find 
attenuation performed both by hand power and 
mechanically. Attenuation by hand power, as 
found in hand, hand spindle and wheel spinning, is 



YARN MAKING 7 

accomplished either by stretching or by drawing, 
or by a combination of the two. Likewise mechani- 
cal attenuation in frame and machine spinning is 
produced in the three ways. 

8a In the simplest Hand spinning, attenuation is by 

8b drawing, but in spinning by Hand-on-the-thigh, by 
the Grasped-spindle and by the Sup- Hand 
ported-spindle it is accomplished by ^^^^s 
stretching. The most perfect hand drafting is in 

8c Suspended-spindle spinning, where the hand of the 
spinner draws the rove, while at the same time the 
spindle by its weight drafts it still further by 
stretching. This method produces the most fault- 
lessly attenuated yarn the world has ever known. 

8b2 It is true the finest yarn in the world is spun in 
India by the Supported-spindle. Nevertheless the 
perfection of this filmy cotton thread does not 
depend so much upon excellence of method as upon 
the expertness of the spinner of India. Her dex- 
trous fingers possess a sense of touch most acute and 
delicate ; and for finest yarns the spinner's age 
rarely exceeds thirty years. During spinning she 
uses a chalky powder to keep the fingers dry. If 
the thread is exceptionally filmy she must spin 
when the dew of early morning is still upon the 
ground and the air filled with moisture, or if this is 
impossible she must spin over water. Still, with 
all these contrivances the deft fingers do not suc- 
ceed in drafting a thread of such uniform thickness 
as does the Suspended-spindle. Had this been the 



8 • YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

case, instead of the Suspended-spindle which per- 
sisted over all Europe and the Mediterranean coun- 
tries, we should have had a wide distribution of the 

8d Supported-spindle. Drafting on the Asiatic and 
Jersey wheels, and on the Saxony wheel, returned 
to the less perfect method of attenuating by stretch- 

8e ing. A distaff for holding the raw materials is 
occasionally used with the Supported-spindle, es- 
pecially by tribes of eastern Asia and the adjoining 
islands. It is usually present with the Suspended- 
spindle and the Saxony wheel. 

8f The first mechanism to take the place of the 
human hand in the delicate and complicated pro- 
Mechanical cess of attenuation was not discovered 
Drafting until many centuries after a mechanical 
twisting device had been invented, and some time 
after winding had become automatic. Two devices 
for this appeared about the same time. The first 
was a moving carriage constructed for the new 
Spinning Jenny, which drafted by stretching. The 

8g second was a roller mechanism for the new Water 
frame, consisting of a series of rollers, each succeed- 
ing set increasing in speed, which drafted by draw- 

8h ing. This last proved so successful that later the 
Flyer, Cap and Ring spinning frames were built on 

8i the same principle of drafting by rollers. However, 
this means did not make fine soft yarn needed for 
specific purposes. For. the finer counts a new spin- 
ning implement was devised which combined the 
two kinds of drafting, first drawing the rove by a 



YARN MAKING 9 

series of rollers moving at different speeds, as on 
the Water frame ; and then stretching it on an 
improved moving carriage. This implement is the 
Mule, which first took the form of the Hand Mule 
and later the Self-acting Mule run by power. It 
produces the most perfect mechanically drafted yarn. 

Twisting 

As before noted, twisting is the important factor 
in spinning, since it is the process which gives 
strength and elasticity to the spun yarn Twisting 
by bringing the fibers composing it close ii^piement 
together and binding them. Earliest twisting 
between the hands, or between the palm and thigh 
is laborious and slow; besides, in general it yields a 
coarse product, although research in northwest 
America shows that certain Indian tribes gained 
great dexterity in spinning by this crude method. 
Better and more expeditious twisting could only 
arrive with the development of mechanical science. 
This unfolding and growth showed itself in a diverse 
and varied way through the mechanics of twisting, 
first by the invention of a spinning device, the Hand 
spindle, and then by perfecting it. The earliest 
twisting devices which have been found among re- 
mains of ancient civilizations, as well as those seen 
to-day among the peasants and peoples of lower 
culture, exhibit the nicety to which the art of 
shaping, balancing and accelerating can be 
brought. 



lO YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

9c This perfecting culminated in the Suspended hand 
spindle, which spins in the air unretarded by fric- 
Free tion. It has for centuries persisted 

Spindle throughout the ancient and medieval 
world, even down through modern times to the 
present day. Tomb paintings of the Middle King- 
dom picture rows of Egyptian spinners making 
yarn by this method, and Greek vases depict the 
use of the same spindle. In fact no method of 
spinning has had so long and wide a distribution. 
Some authors hold that spindle spinning originated 
with this type in its crudest form of a single stick, 
or two crossed sticks, and used in each case as a 
Suspended-spindle. This may have been the 
earliest type in the Old World, but not in the New. 
Here, from the earliest times of which we have 
record, there have existed two more elementary 

9a types, both as to drafting and twisting. The first 
is the huge Grasped-spindle, which in a unique 
manner is grasped in both hands. Its spinning end 
is turned away from the spinner and twirled in the 

9b air. The second t5rpe is a smaller and better 
adapted Supported-spindle. By some tribes it is 
revolved in a nearly horizontal position along the 
thigh. By other tribes it is twirled in a nearly 
vertical position between the thumb and fingers. 
The India spindle for Dacca yarn is of this type, 
and as has been said, spins the finest yarn in the 
world. It consists of a delicate iron, or bamboo 
shaft, weighted near its lower end with a small 



YARN MAKING II 

ball, or wheel, of baked clay. The slender rove of 
short fibered cotton is so tender it would tear apart 
during the twisting if the spindle did not rest in a 
hollow shell. Next to the dexterity of the Dacca 
spinner in drafting is her skill in putting in an 
excessively close twist, which adds much to the 
durability of the yarn. This extra twist is due 
somewhat to the slender spindle of very light weight, 

9d Mechanical science took a decided step in ad- 
vance with the discovery that it was possible to 
mount the spindle. Thus came into Mounted 
existence the first mechanical spinning spmdie 
implement, the spinning wheel. India was the 
first home of this new twisting device, and it spread 
to different parts of Asia as well as Europe, where 
its form became slightly modified in the Jersey, or 
Wool wheel. A mounted spindle gives a steadier 
and consequently more certain twister than the free 
spindle, whose product is more or less dependent 
upon the dexterity of the spinner. The spindle's 
position is horizontal, which brings the spinning end 
conveniently toward the worker. In addition to 
stability, the mounted spindle allows the applica- 
tion of a mechanical means for rotating it. The 
principle of the pulley and endless band is applied 
in the shape of a large wheel, whose increased size 
over the small wheel holding the spindle greatly 
accelerates the twisting speed. This wheel is 
driven by hand, except in China where a propelling 

9e treadle is added. To the mounted spindle of the 



12 ■ YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Saxony wheel is added a flyer which twists the rove 

and passes it on to an independently moving bobbin. 
9f This same spindle is used on the Water frame and 

the Fly, Cap and Ring frames, although in both it 
9g is vertical. The spindle of the Jenny is the same 

shaft spindle of the Jersey wheel, as is also that of 

the Mule, although they are vertical. 

Winding 

10 Caring for the spun yarn, or winding, is a very 
great economic necessity to prevent untwisting and 
Winding by tangling. The first winding was done by 
Hand hand when the spun yarn was rolled into a 

ball. With the advent of the spindle this imple- 
ment became the receptacle for the spun yarn and 

10b has so remained to the present day. On the simplest 
spindles the yarn is wound by hand. First a 
length of yarn is twisted, then spinning stops until 
the spun length has been wound on the spindle, a 
kind of spinning termed intermittent, because the 
twisting and winding are separate motions. Wind- 
ing was a' very backward process in becoming 
automatic, although the Grasped-spindle makes a 

10a crude attempt to assist in the winding. Here the 
huge spindle is rocked back and forth to loop on 
the spun yarn for the first winding, when it is re- 
moved from the spindle for the second winding by 
hand on the spindle shaft. 

10c Attempts at automatic winding may be said to 
date back as far as the first Asiatic spinning wheel, 



YARN MAKING 1 3 

although no specific winding device is present, 
neither does the spindle help other than to turn, 
and to act as a receptacle for the spun Automatic 
yarn. The general mechanism allows "Winding 
winding by turning the drive wheel, if the stretch of 
spun yarn is moved so as to extend perpendicularly 
to the spindle, instead of out from its point as when 

lOd twisting. A similar spindle is found later on the 
multiple spinning frame, the Jenny. This permits 
winding by means of a moving carriage, which 
moves in toward the spindles, in imitation of the 
letting in of the spun yarn by the human hand on 

lOe the Wool wheel. Still later this same spindle is 
found on the Hand Mule and Self-acting Mule, 
where it is placed on a modified form of moving 

lOf carriage. The spindles of the Asiatic and Jersey 
wheels, the Jenny and the two Mules put twist 
into the rove, when twisting stops to give way to 
winding ; then the yarn is wound on, when winding 
stops to give way to twisting the next stretch of 
rove. These alternating movements give the in- 

lOg termittent spinning. To return to the hand wheel, 
the Saxony spinning wheel has a new kind of 
spindle. In addition to twisting, it assumes the 
labor of winding by means of a freely moving bobbin 
which automatically winds on yarn as fast as twisted 
by the flyer. The double-functioned spindle intro- 
duces a new method of continuous spinning, since 
it allows twisting and winding without interruption. 

lOh This is also the spindle of the Water frame, a 



14 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

multiple spinning frame with roller drafting and 
run by water or horse power. Again we find 
lOi the flyer- spindle on the modern Fly spinning 
machine run by steam, and in slightly modified 
form on the Cap and Ring spinning machines of 
the same type. 

Developing Agencies 

11 Early in the spinning industry an energetic agent 
appeared which greatly increased speed in yarn 

Combining making. It was a combining of the pro- 
Processes cesses. For in some types of spinning, 
the attenuating and the twisting may take place 
at the same time. In others the twisting and wind- 
ing may combine. Indeed, in a few types all three 

11a processes are reduced to one motion. In the 
simplest Hand spinning the three processes are 

lib performed separately ; but in the second variety of 
Hand spinning the drafting and twisting are done 

lie at the same time. A backward step in this respect 
is taken in Grasped-spindle spinning, for the three 
processes again separate, as also in the crudest 

lid variety of Supported-spindle spinning. However, 
in the second variety of this type the drafting and 
twisting are performed simultaneously, as also in 
Suspended-spindle spinning, and in the Jersey and 
Asiatic wheel spinning. The gain here is in quality 
as well as in speed, since yarn is generally stronger 
and more even when twist is put in during drafting, 
especially when short-fibered materials are spun. 



YARN MAKING 1 5 

lie On the Saxony wheel all three processes are com- 
bined in one motion through the invention of the 
flyer spindle. This great victory in mechanical 
science was won by some unknown Saxony spinner. 

llf The Spinning Jenny because of a non-automatic 

llg spindle lapses to two motions. The Water frame 
has one motion, here the combined processes are 
drafting, twisting and winding from the automatic 

llh spindle. In Mule spinning control in this par- 
ticular gives way to a new problem, a dominant 
need for fine yarn; and the spinning again splits 
to three processes, to allow for yarn quality ob- 
tained only with double attenuation. The second 
drafting unites with the twisting and is possible 
only with the intermittent motion of the non- 

lli winding spindle. With the Spinning frames there 
is again united action of the three processes, and a 
continuously spun thread. These, the most highly 
perfected spinning machines, have a speed truly 
phenomenal. 

12 Another active factor which soon made its 
presence felt in the spinning industry is the econo- 
mizing of human energy. In the earliest conserving 
types it is of special interest to watch the ^^'^''gy 
freeing of the hands from the twisting process 
through perfecting the spinning means, or implement. 
In the most elementary Hand spinning both hands 
twist jointly ; but in spinning with the Hand-on-the- 
thigh one hand only need twist, because the thigh 
supplies a stable working surface. The simplest 



1 6 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

spindle spinning with the Grasped-spindle requires 
both hands to twirl the implement. But the Sup- 
ported-spindle of smaller lighter shape adapted to 
support itself again frees one hand from the twist- 
ing, while the Suspended-spindle with still more 
perfect adjustment in size and heft releases one 
hand entirely and partially frees the second. In 
the earliest wheels, the Asiatic and the Jersey, one 
hand propels the drive wheel ; but in the Saxony 
both hands are set free by the employment of foot 
power for propelling. Equally as interesting as 
conserving human energy is the avoiding of me- 
chanical waste. An example of this is the ehminat- 
ing of friction in various ways, notably its gradual 
lessening in the three types of hand spindles. The 
conserving of mechanical energy by effecting better 
action between the different parts of the implement, 
or machine, is but one of a number of means which 
will come readily to mind. 
13 Of very great importance to increasing produc- 
tion was the introduction of a more powerful 
means for propelling the spinning imple- 
ment. Although spinning by hand 
power became quite successful as to speed in 
Suspended-spindle spinning, it was not until this 
free implement was finally mounted that much 
headway could be made toward increasing output. 
Even then it was with very great effort that early 
inventors were able to find a substitute for hand 
power, since the earliest wheels are propelled by 



YARN MAKING 1 7 

hand. With the Saxony wheel, it was discovered 
that the foot could supplant the hand as a driving 
force. This gain in improved power is traced in 
the spinning types through hand, foot, horse, 
water and steam power. With this last it is pos- 
sible to manufacture an output of yarn such as is 
needed by the world to-day. 



SPINNING TYPES 

I 

HAND SPINNING 

Distinctive Characteristics 

A . Simplest method of spinning : done entirely by- 

hand. No device for any of the three processes. 
Attenuating, twisting and winding done between the 

fingers, or palms. 
Spinning processes performed separately, employing 

both hands. 

B. Hand and thigh spinning : the two hands and thigh 

the means for spinning. 
Attenuating done by left hand. 
Twisting performed by right hand on thigh. 
Winding performed by both hands. 
Spinning intermittent : the attenuation and twisting 

simultaneous, followed by winding. 

Outline 

Examples: A. Peasants of Sicily; B. Koryak of Si- 
beria ; Tlinget of Alaska. 
Implement — No artificial device. 

i8 




Fig. I. — Hand-on-thigh Spinning, Philippine Islands 

The palm by one movement twists the two separate strands, then 
by a backward movement twists the two together into two- 
ply yam. 



SPINNING TYPES 



19 



A. The two hands (l-7). 

a. fingers. 

b. palms. 

B. Hands and thigh. 
Power — Hand (13). 
Motion. — 

A. Three separate motions (ll, 11a). 

1. attenuating. 

2. twisting. 

3. winding. 

B. Two motions (lib). 

1 . attenuating and twisting (compound process) . 

2. winding. 
Process — Drafting (8b). 

A. with both hands. 

B. with left hand. 
Twisting. 

A. between fingers, or two palms. 

B. with right hand on thigh. 
Winding with both hands. 

1. Raw material drawn out into rude form of strand 

(8, 8a, b). 

2. Drawn strand twisted (9). 

3. Twisted strand (termed rove) wound into ball (lO). 

4. Rove again drawn and twisted for finished yarn. 

Economic Gain 

The comparison here is of 5 to ^. ^ is especially 
slow in manipulation, the length of spin short, the 
three processes carried on separately. 



20 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

In production : 
Longer spin, the distance between left hand and right 

thigh. 
Simultaneous drawing and twisting, one hand freed 

from twisting, so that left draws while right twists. 
Stationary thigh furnishes steady base upon which to 

twist. 
In product : 

More uniform yarn from steady base upon which to 

twist. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

I Andre, E. "A naturalist in the Guianas." 

5 Bancroft, H. H. "Native races," I, 165. 

I Dellenbaugh, F. S. "North Americans of yesterday." 

I Emmons, G. T. "The Chilkat blanket," American Museum 

Mem. ni. 
4 Gibbs, C. "Household textiles." 

1 Hoffman, W. I. "The Menominee Indians." 14 Rept. Bureau 

Am. Ethnology, 260. 

2 Holmes, W. H. {^) "Prehistoric textile art in eastern United 

States." 13 Rept. Bureau Am. Ethnology. 
I Im Thurn, E. F. "Indians of British Guiana," 284. 
I Jannasch, R. "Die Textilindustrie bei Ur und Naturvolkern." 

Berliner Gesellschaft fiir Anthropologic, XX, 88. 
I lochelson, W. "The Koryak." American Museum Mem. X. 
I Kissell, M. L. (^) "Fabrics from primitive looms." (In 

preparation.) 
- Magazines. See magazine illustrations. 
I Mason, O. T. 0) "Origin of inventions." 

3 Mason, O. T. (2) "Woman's share in primitive culture." 

4 Nystrom, P. H. "Textiles." 

4 Taggart, W. S. "Cotton spinning." I, Introduction. 



SPINNING TYPES 21 

I Tylor, E. B. "Anthropology." 

3 Weeden, W. B. "The art of weaving." Rept. Am. Historical 

Asso. 1902. ^ 

4 Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." 

I Worcester, D. C. "Non-Christian tribes in northern Luzon." 
Philippine Journal of Science, I, 1906 ; also in National Geo- 
graphical Magazine, Vol. 22, 914. 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

Andre, p. 286. Spinning cotton. 

Worcester, PI. 43a. Bontoc Igorot spinning on thigh. 

II 
GRASPED HAND SPINDLE 
Distinctive Characteristics 

Simplest form of spinning implement : a spindle 

grasped in two hands. 
Simplest attenuating device : a tension ring through 

which the rove is pulled to slightly retard it during 

the stretching. 
Twisting device : large hand spindle with shaft and 

whorl. 
No winding device : but spindle serves as appHance 

upon which to wind spun yarn. 
Spinning processes performed separately with both 

hands. 

Outline 

Example : Salish tribes of North America. 
Implements — Grasped spindle with 



22 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

1 . shaft. 

2, whorl. 
Drafting ring. 

a. stone. 

b. wood. 

c. wicker work. 
Power — Hand (13) . 

Motion — Three separate motions (ll, lie). 

1 . attenuating. 

2 . twisting. 

3. winding. 

Process — Stretching as rove is pulled through tension 

ring. 
Twisting by spindle grasped in both hands (12). 
Winding (a) with both hands, or (b) by swinging 

spindle grasped in both hands. 

1. Rove prepared by Hand-on-thigh spinning. 

2. A long length of rove pulled through tension ring 

(8, 8b). 

3. Stretched rove twisted by rotating with a tossing 

movement the lifted spindle (9, 9a). 

4. Twisted yarn after each length is spun (a) looped 

on shaft by raising and lowering spindle point, 
or {b) wound on spindle by hand (lO, 10a). 

Economic Gain 

In production : 

Greater length of spin. 

Introduction of twisting implement releases hands 
from actual twisting. 




Fig. 2. — Simplest Spindle Spinning, Salish Indians 

The huge spindle twirled in air twists a long length of rove passing from a ball 
over a distant bar, instead of through the usual drawing ring. 




Fig. 3. — Ancient Egyptian Twine Maker 
The twine is twisted by a method similar to that of the Salish Indians. 



SPINNING TYPES 23 

Accelerating whorl for twisting does not stop when 
power stops as in Hand spinning ; although the 
friction from manner of holding considerably re- 
tards rotation. 

A loss from return to three separate processes. 
In product : (no gain) . 

Poorer yarn, very much coarser than best yarn of 
Hand spinning. 

Uneven from imperfect drawing. 

Coarse from clumsy spindle. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

- Cailliaud, F. "Recherches sur les arts et metiers." (Illus- 

tration.) 

- Gosse, A. B. "The civilization of the ancient Egyptians." 

(Illustration.) 

- Guide to Anthropological collections, Victoria Museum. (Illus- 

tration.) 
3 James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England." 
I Kissell, M. L. (^) "A new type of spinning in North America." 

Am. Anthropologist, Vol. 18, No. 2, April — June, 1916. 
I Kissell, M. L. (^) "Fabrics from primitive looms." (In 

preparation.) 

- Lepsius, K. R. "Denkmaler," II. (Illustration.) 

- Manchester, H. H. " Story of silk and Cheney silks." (Illus- 

tration.) 

- Miintz, E. (^) "Tapisseries." (Illustration.) 

- Newberry, P. E. (}) "Beni Hasan," II. (Illustration.) 

- Ronchaud, L. de. "La tapisserie." (Illustration.) 

I Rosellini, I. "I monument! dell' Egitto e della Nubia" II. 
(In Italian.) 

- Wilkinson, J. G. " Manners and customs of ancient Egyptians." 

(Illustration.) 



24 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

BOOK ILLUSTRATION 

Cailliaud, PI. 17 A. Man spinning with grasped spindle. 
Gosse, p. 32. Man spinning. 

T,^,. Woman spinning flax (fig. to left). 
Guide to anthropological collections, Victoria Museum. 

p. 53. Blanket-making, Vancouver Island. 
James, p. 13, fig. 2. Egyptian spinner. 
Kissell 0), Pi. XVI. Method of spinning in 1846. 

Fig. 27. Method of spinning in 1915. 
Lepsius, II, PL 126. A spinner with grasped spindle. 
Manchester, p. 14, line 2, middle figure — Man spinning. 
Miintz, (^) 2a. Egyptian spinner. 

Newberry Q), II, PL IV, band 5 near center — Egyptian making 
twine. 
PL XIII, band 4 right hand — Egyptian making 
twine. 
Ronchaud, p. 57. Egyptian spinner (after Wilkinson). 
Rosellini, II, PL XLI, fig. 4. Spinning with grasped spindle. 
Wilkinson, II, p. 170. Man engaged in spinning. 

Ill 

SUPPORTED HAND SPINDLE 

Distinctive Characteristics 

A. Spinning implement: a smaller and less clumsy 
spindle resting lengthwise on the right thigh. 

No attenuating device : left hand drafts. 

Twisting device : hand spindle rotated by right hand. 

No winding device : yarn wound on spindle-shaft 
with both hands. 

Spinning intermittent: the twisting and winding 
alternating. 




Fig. 4. — The Navajo Method of Spinning 

The Indian is drafting the rove preparatory to twisting, for which the upper 
spindle-arm is rolled along the thigh. 




Fig. 5. — A Kwakiutl Indian Spinner 

Here the lower spind'.e-arm is rolled on the lower 1 
for twisting. 



SPINNING TYPES 2$ 

B. Spinning implement : a small spindle standing erect 
on ground, in a shell, or in a cup. 
Other details as in ^. 

Outline 

Examples: A. Navajo; Kwakiutl; Pima; B. Mexi- 
can tribes ; Some Philippine tribes. 
Implement — Small supported spindle with 

1. shaft. 

2. whorl. 
Power — Hand (13). 
Motion. — 

A. Three processes separate (ll, lie). 

B. Intermittent spinning (lid). 

1. attenuating and twisting (compound process). 

2. winding. 

Process — Stretching with left hand (12). 

Twisting with spindle controlled by right hand {B 

puts in more twist than A). 
Winding with both hands. 

1. Rove prepared by Hand-on-thigh spinning, or by 

modern hand cards. 

2. Prepared rove, or carding, drawn out and fed to 

spindle (8, 8b, 8b2, e). 

A. before twisting. 

B. while twisting. 

3. Twisting. 

A. Palm rotates spindle placed lengthwise on 
thigh (9, 9b). 

a. upper arm of spindle rests on thigh. 

b. lower arm of spindle rests on thigh. 



26 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

B. Fingers twirl spindle standing erect. 

a. standing in wooden thimble between toes. 
h. standing in clay bowl, or shell. 
c. standing on ground. 

4. Spun yarn, after each length is twisted, is wound on 

spindle-shaft (lO, 10b). 

5. This crude yarn generally respun for finished yarn. 

6. Another spinning may be given for a fine yarn, or 

two single yarns may be doubled for two-ply. 

Economic Gain 

In production : 

A. Position of spindle removes a little friction and 

permits slightly more freedom to the accelerat- 
ing whorl. 
Loses by shorter length of spin. 

B. Simultaneous drawing and twisting frees one hand 

from spindle. 
Position of spindle removes all friction save at point, 
permitting good use of balancing and rotary power. 
Greater speed from more even movement of smaller 
supported spindle. 
In product : 

More uniform yarn from better method of drawing 

and more even spindle movement. 
B gives a harder twisted yarn than A . 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

I Andree, E. "A naturalist in the Guianas." 

I Bancroft, H. H. "Native races." I, p. 698; II, p. 485. 

I Boas, F. " Kwakiutl Indians. " 



SPINNING TYPES 27 

2 Brooks, E. C. "The story of cotton." 

1 Coomaraswamy, A. K. "Mediaeval Sinhalese art." 

2 Crawford, M. D. C. "Peruvian textiles." Am. Mus. Anthro- 

pological Papers, XII, Pt. III. 
2 Crawford, M. D. C. " Master weavers of the desert empire." 
Harper's, July, 1916. 

1 DeUenbaugh, F. S. "North Americans of yesterday." 

- Draper, G. O. "Labor-saving looms." (Illustration.) 

4 Goddard, P. E.i "Indians of the southwest." Am. Mus. 
Handbook, 2, 19 13. 

2 Goddard, P. E.^ "Navajo blankets." Am. Mus. Journal. 

Nov., 1910. 

- Handbook Am. Indians. Bu. Am. Ethnology. Bull, ^o, II. 

"Weaving." (Illustration.) 

4 Holmes, W. H.^ "Textile fabrics of ancient Peru," Rept. 
Bu. Am. Ethnology, 1889. 

I HoUister, U. S. "The Navajo and his blanket." 

I Horniman Museum Handbook, II. 

I Illustrated London News Supplement, Oct. 20, 1855, p. 473. 

I Im Thurn, E. F. "Indians of British Guiana." 285, 286. 

I James, G. W. "Indian blankets and their makers." 

I KisseU, M. L.^ "Fabrics from primitive looms." (In prep- 
aration.) 

I Mason, O. T.^ "Origin of inventions." 

I Mason, O. T.^ "Woman's share in primitive culture." 

I Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." 3 Rept. Bu. Am. Eth- 
nology. 

1 Miller, M. L. "The Mangyans of Mindora." Philippine 

Journal of Science, D. 7, 191 2. 

2 Nystrom, P. H. "Textiles." 

- Oppel, A. "Die Baumwolle." (Illustration.) 

I Pepper, G. H. "The making of the Navajo blanket." Every- 
body's Magazine, Jan., 1902. 
I Russell, F. "Pima Indians." 26 Rept. Bu. Am. Ethnology. 
4 Stevenson, M. "Zuni Indians." 23 Rept. Bu. Am. Ethnology. 



28 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

1 Watson, J. F, "Textile manufactures and costumes of India," 

p. 64. 

2 Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles," p. 21. 

2 Worcester, D. C. " Non- Christian tribes of northern Luzon." 
Philippine Journal of Science, I, 1906. 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Coomaraswamy, PI. 4, i Spinning. 

6, 3 Spinning cotton. 
Draper, p. 18. Early spindle. 

18. Mexican spinner. 

19. Two Mexican spinners. 
Goddard 0), p. 50, d-e. Spindles. 

152. Navajo woman spinning. 
Goddard (^), p. 205. Navajo woman spinning wool. 
Handbook American Indians, II. 

p. 928. Navajo spinning. 
HoUister, p. loi. Navajo carder. 

p. III. Navajo spinner. 
Holmes (^), p. 7. Peruvian spindles. 
James, p. 108, fig. 131. Navajo spinning. 
Magazines. See magazine illustrations. 
Mason Q-), p. 76. Zuni woman spinning woolen yarn. 
Matthews, PI. 34. Navajo spinning. 

44. Moki spinning. 
Miller, PI. 8. Spinning cotton thread. 
Oppel, p. 621. Indian woman spinning in Colombia. 

p., 566. Distaff and spindle of the Igorot of Luzon. 
Pepper, p. 38. Navajo spinner. 
Stevenson, PI. 44. Moki method of spinning. 
Walton, p. 20. -Indian spinner (drawing out rove). 
Watson, J. F., p. 64. Spinning fine yarn for Dacca muslins. 
Woolman and McGowan, p. 20. Navajo spinning. 
Worcester, PI. 44. A Tingian woman spinning cotton. 



SPINNING TYPES 



29 



IV 



SUSPENDED HAND SPINDLE 




Fig. 6. — ^ Ancient Egyptian Spinners, Middle Kingdom 

Right, spinner twisting simultaneously two lines of rove by rolling spindle on 
thigh. Left, dextrous Egyptian doubling yarn. Four single yarns are 
being twisted into two two-ply yarns. 



Distinctive Characteristics 

Spinning implement : a spindle freely suspended from 

the thread it is spinning. A Distaff for holding raw 

material frequently present. 
Attenuating device: spindle stretches rove after hands 

have drawn it. 
Twisting device : hand spindle rotated by right hand 

and let swing. 



so 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



No winding device : spindle used to hold spun yarn. 

Spinning intermittent. 

Outline 

Example : Peasants of 
southern Europe, and 
tribes of Central 
Asia. 

Implement — Sus- 
pended spindle. 

a. a stone. 

b. shaft with cleft, 
or hook. 

c. shaft with cross 
bar and hook. 

d. shaft with whorl 
and hook. 

e. shaft with whorl, 
no hook. 

Distaff frequently 
present. 

Power — Hand (13). 
Motion. — Intermittent 

(11, lid). 

1 . attenuating and 
twisting (compound 
process) . 

2 . winding. 




Fig. 



- Suspended-Spindle Spin- 
ning, Hungary 



The flax is drawn from the distafi with one Process 
hand and the spindle twirled by the 
fingers of the other hand. 



Drawing with both 




Fig. 8. — Spinning in the Alps, about iooo b.c. 

On the left is a quaint spinner with suspended spindle etched on the neck 
of an old tomb um. 




Fig. g. — Winding Yarn on Spindle, Algeria 

The spun yarn kept stretched by the spindle weight is first wrapped about 
the fingers as it is drawn in. Later it is unwrapped from them as it is 
wound upon spindle. 



SPINNING TYPES 3 1 

hands, followed by stretching with spindle. 

Drawing regulated by careful adjustment of 

spindle weight (12). 
Twisting with spindle managed by right hand. 
Winding with both hands. 

1. Raw material attached to distaff held in left hand, 

under arm, or thrust into belt ; or material 
made into loose carding, or rove. 

2. Raw material, or rove, drawn out and fed to spindle 

which continues to stretch rove by its weight 
(8, 8c, 8e). 

3. Spindle rotated by (9, 9c). 

a. rolling with right palm on thigh and let 

swing. 

b. twirling between thumb and first finger and let 

swing. 

4. Spun yarn wound on spindle shaft after each 

stretch is twisted (lO, 10b). 

5. Yarn may be respun for harder twist, or doubled 

for two-ply, four-ply, or eight-ply yarns. 

Economic Gain 

In production : 

Greater length of spin. 

Increased momentum of free spindle by eliminating 

friction. 
Double means for drawing : the spindle and the entire 
use of one hand and part time of the other. 
In product : 

Yarn of great evenness, strength and deHcacy. 



32 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Evenly attenuated yarn because of double drafting 

by the hands and spindle weight. 
Of regular twist because twisted with tension, a close 

twist because of rapidly moving free spindle. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

I Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture, " 68. 

I Blount, Mrs. G. "The story of a home-spun web." 

I Brooks, E. C. "The story of cottom." 

I Briiggemann, H. "Die Spinnerei." 

- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illus- 

tration.) 

- Cailliaud, F. "Recherches sur les arts et metiers." (Illus- 

tration.) 

- Coles, F. R. "Scottish spindles and whorls." (Illustration.) 

Reliquary and Illustrated Archaeologist V. 

- Davies, N. de G. "Five Theban tombs." (Illustration.) 
I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Spinning." 

I Erman, A. "Life in ancient Egypt." 

- Forrer, R. "Reallexikon der prahistorischen klassischen und 

friichristlichen Altertiimer." (Illustration.) 
5 Garnett, A. "Hand spinning." 

3 Garstang, J. "Burial customs in ancient Egypt." 
I Gibbs, C. "Household textiles." 

4 Gilroy, C. G. (^) "History of silk, cotton, linen, wool," i5, 

343- 

- Gosse, A. B. "The civilization of ancient Egypt." (Illus- 

tration.) 
I Guest, R. "Cotton manufacture." 
I Hooper, L. (}) "Hand loom weaving." 

3 Hooper, L. " The loom and spindle : past, present and future." 
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts LX, 3120. 
(*) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914. 
I Horner collection, Belfast Municipal Mus., p. 2, Nos. 7, 36, 63, 64. 



SPINNING TYPES 



33 



I Horniman Museum handbook II, 36, 37., 

3 James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 11, 
12, 334- 

- Keller, F. "Lake dwellings of Switzerland." (Illustration.) 

- Kimakowicz-Winnicki. "Spinn- und Webewerkzeuge in vor 

geschichtlicher Zeit Europas." (Illustration.) 

- Lepsius, K. R. "Denkmaler" IV. (Illustration.) 
3 Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." 

- Manchester, H. H. "Story of silk and Cheney silks." (Illus- 

tration.) 
I Marsden, R. Q) "Cotton spinning," 3, igo. 

1 Mason, 0. T. (^) "Origin of inventions." 

3 Mason, 0. T. (^) "Woman's share in primitive culture." 

- Maspero, G. "Dawn of civilization in Egypt and Chaldaea." 

(Illustration.) 

- Miintz, E. (^) "Tapisseries." (Illustration.) 

2 Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," II. 
I Nasmith, J. " Students' cotton spinning." 

- Newberry, P. E. (i) "Beni Hasan," I, II, IV. (Illustration.) 

- Newberry, P. E. (2) "El Bersheth," I. (Illustration.) 
I New International Encyclopedia. "Spinning." 

1 Oppel, A. "Die BaumwoUe." 

- Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. (Illustration.) 

- Rohn, G. "Die Spinnerei." (Illustration.) 

- Ronchaud, L. de. "Tapisserie." (Illustration.) 

- Rosellini, I. "Monumenti dell Egitto e dello Nubia." (Illus- 

tration.) 

- Roth, H. L. Q) "Ancient Egyptian and Greek looms." 

Bankfield Mus. Series 2, No. 2. (Illustration.) 

- Schurtz, H. " Urgeschichte der Kultur." (Illustration.) 

- Simmonds, P. L. "lire's cotton manufacture." (Illustration.) 

4 Taggart, W. S. "Cotton spinning," I. Introduction. 

2 Todd, J. A. "The world's cotton crops." 
2 Tylor, E. B. "Anthropology." 

- Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," II. (Illustration.) 



34 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

I Vickerman, C. "Wool spinning," 6, 193. 

I Walton, P. "Story of textiles." 

I Warden, A. J. "Linen trade ancient and modern." 

I Watson, J. F. "Textile manufacture in India." 

I Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." 

3 Weeden, W. B. "Art of weaving." Rept. Am. Historical 

Asso., 1902. 
I Wilkinson, J. G. " Manners and customs of ancient Egyptians." 
I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

Baines, p. 49. Ancient Greek spinner. 
Blount, p. 2. Spindle spinning. 

II. Two spinners with distaff and spindle. 
Brooks, p. 147. Street scene in Naples. 

Briiggemann, p. 35. Peasants spinning flax and wool in 1544. 
Butterworth, p. 181, fig. i. Greek spinner. 
Cailliaud, PL 17 A. Egyptian spinners, figs, i, 2, 3, 7, 8. 
Coles, p. 80. Typical spindle. 

81. Spindle from St. Kilda. 

81. Spindle and whorl from Scotland. 

81. Spindle and whorl from Cullybocky. 

82. Two carved spindle butts. 

83. 84, 85, 86. Spindle whorls.- 

Davies, PL 38. Spinning in XI Dynasty, 2000 B.C. 
Erman, p. 448. Spinning and unraveling the flax. 
Forrer, Tafel, 152, fig. 5. Spinner on urn from Oedenburg. 
278, fig. I. Spinner on urn from Oedenburg. 

2, figs. II, 12. Spindle whorls. 
35, fig. 3. Spindle whorls. 
185, fig. 5. Spindle whorls. 
89, figs. 82, 87. Spindle whorls. 
Garstang, p. 135. Spinning at Abu-Kirkas, Egypt, to-day. 
Gosse, p. 2,3- Woman spinning flax (center figures). 
Guest, PI. I. Distaff spinning. 



SPINNING TYPES 35 

Hooper Q), fig. 4. Distaff. 

5. Spinning with distaff and spindle. 

6. Spindle. 

PI. II. Egyptian spindle. 

V. Greek vase painting. 

VI. Spindle whorls from ancient Greece. 
Hooper (^) (*), fig. 3. Primitive spindles — Egypt, Peru, Guiana, 

Great Britain, Colombia, Paraguay. 
5. Peasant spinning. 
James, p. 13, fig. i. Egyptian spindles. 
6. Egyptian spinner. 
Keller, PI. 3, fig. 13. Spindle whorl of earthenware. 
57, fig. 6. Whorl of earthenware. 
64, figs. 12-16, 18. Whorl of earthenware, 
fig. 17. Whorl of stag's horn. 
Kimakowicz-Winnicki, p. 11. Roman spindles and whorls. 

24. Siebenburgisch-deutschen whorls. 
59. Neolithic whorls. 
Lepsius, IV Abth. II, PI. 126. Egyptian spinner. 
Lindner, Title page — Greek spinner. 

p. I. Hand spindle. 
•Magazines. See Magazine Illustration. 
Manchester, p. 14. Egyptian women spinning. 
Marsden Q-), p. 193. Greek spinner. 
Maspero, p. 57. Egyptian woman spinning. 
Muntz (^), p. 2 a, b. Egyptian spinners. 
Murphy, II, p. 136. Spindle and distaff. 
Newberry Q-), I, PI. 29. Egyptian spinner. 
II, 4. Egyptian spinners. 
II 13. Egyptian spinners. 
IV 15. Egyptian spinner. 
Newberry {^), I, PI. 26. Egyptian spinners. 
Oppel, p. 202. Peasant family spinning. 

203. Hausa spindles. 

204. Spinning. Nigeria. 



36 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Pictorial Gallery of Arts. 

I, p. 99. Distaff spinning. 
Ronchaud, p. 57. Egyptian spinners. 
Rosellini, II, PL 41. Egyptian spinners. 
Roth, p. 12. Egyptian spinners. 
Schurtz, p. 237. Algerian spinner. 
Simmonds, II, p. 201. Ancient distaff spinsters. 
Todd, p. 276. Hand spinning in Egypt. 
Tylor, p. 247. Egyptian woman spinning. 
Ure, II, p. 255. Ancient distaff spinsters. 
Vickerman, p. 195. Spinster with distaff and spindle. 
Walton, P., p. 16. Greek and Roman method of spinning. 

106. Distaff spinning. 
Watson, J. T., p. 16, I. Spinning fine yarn. 
Watson, K., p. 2. The thread of life. 

4. Italian woman spinning flax. 
7. Russian spinning. 
Wilkinson, J. G., I, p. 319. Egyptian spinners. 
II, p. 170. Egyptian spinners. 
172. Egyptian spindles. 
Woolman and McGowan, p. 17. Spinning with distaff and spindle. 
19. Hand in action. 

v 

JERSEY AND ASIATIC WHEELS 
Distinctive Characteristics 

Earliest spinning contrivance worked mechanically : a 
spinning wheel with drive wheel and spindle ; built 
on principle of supported hand spindle. 

No attenuating device : left hand drafts. 

First mechanical twisting device : a spindle mounted 
horizontally and driven by large wheel. 



SPINNING TYPES 



37 



First mechanical winding device: spindle capable of 

winding on yarn. 
Spinning intermittent. 




Fig. io. — Earliest Spinning Wheel, India 

A mounted spindle is turned by a large hand-driven wheel by means of 
an endless band. 



Outline 

Examples : Jersey wheel, Europe ; Teakwood wheel, 

Asia ; Brunswick wheel, Europe. 
Implement — One-band spinning wheel. 

1. standard supporting spindle and drive wheel. 

2. horizontal spindle parallel to axis of drive wheel 

(three spindles on a Chinese treadle wheel of 
this type). 



38 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

3. large smooth-rimmed or one-grooved drive wheel 
which transmits power to spindle by single 
band. 




Fig. II. — Jersey Hand Wheel, Europe 

Wheel for wool or cotton. Top view shows spindle at left. Front view 
shows drive wheel propelled by hand and belt connecting wheel 
with spindle. 

4. wheel driven by 

a. hand, or loose stick. 

b. crank. 

c. treadle. 

Power — a. Right hand propels wheel (13). 

b. Foot propels treadle wheel (Chinese). 
Motion. — Intermittent (ll, lid). 

1 . attenuating and twisting (compound process) . 

2. winding. 



SPINNING TYPES 39 

Process — 

Stretching with left hand (12). 

Twisting with spindle, left hand controls yarn. 

Winding by spindle, left hand controls yarn. 

1. Raw material made into loose carding. 

2. Carding attached to spindle point and continu- 

ously fed to it as hand holds carding in a line 
with spindle point, while motion is given to 
drive wheel. Carding is stretched and twisted 
simultaneously (8, 8d, 9, 9d). 

3. When length of rove has been twisted it is 

brought at right angles to the spindle and 
wound on as the hand moves toward spindle 
(10, 10c). 

4. Coarse first spinning (rove) is respun for finished 

yarn. 

5. Yarn may be respun for harder twist, or doubled 

for two-ply. 

Economic Gain 

Only a sHght gain in output over Suspended spindle 

spinning, but the new invention leads the way for 

further advance. 
In production : 

Mounted spindle gives steady spinning. 

Drive wheel and endless band assuring constant spindle 

rotation. 
Large-size wheel propels smaller wheel, utilizing a 

multiplying power for greater speed. 
Mechanical winding. 



40 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

In product : 
Coarser yarn. 

Far less perfect yarn than the Suspended spindle gives 
with its double drafting and twisting with tension. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

3 Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture," 68, 117. 

3 Banerjei, N. N. 0) "Woollen fabrics in Bengal" (Separate), 

p. 21. 
3 Banerjei, N. N. {^). "Cotton fabrics in Bengal." (Separate), 

p. 41. 
3 Brooks, E. C. " Story of cotton." 

- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustration.) 

- Cavendish, A. E. J. "Korea and the sacred white mountain." 

(Illustration.) 
I Earl, A. M. "Home life in colonial days," 196. 
I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Spinning." 
3 Gibbs, C. "Household textiles." 

5 Gilroy, C. C. (^) "History silk, cotton, linen, wool," 341. 
3 Guest, R. "Cotton manufacture," 7, 13. 
I Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle : past, present and future." 
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts LX, 3120. 
(^) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914- 
3 Horner collection in Belfast Municipal Museum, 3-5. 
I Horniman Museum handbook, II, 37. 
3 Illustrated London News Supplement Oct. 20, 1855, 473. 

"Indian cotton — The webs of Dacca." 
I James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 

334, 335- 
Journal Indian art and industry. 
3 VIII, Banerjei, N.N. C) "Cotton fabrics in Bengal." 

I X, Brendon, B. A. "Woolen fabrics in Bombay." 

I X, Silberrad, C. A. "Cotton of Northwestern 

provinces." 



SPINNING TYPES 41 

I Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." 

I Marsden, R.(0 " Cotton spinning." 

3 Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," II. 
I Nasmith, J. "Students' cotton spinning." 

5 Nystrom, P. H. "Textiles." 

- Oppel, A. "Die BaumwoUe." (Illustration.) 

- Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. (Illustration.) 

4 Reliquary and Illustrated Archaeologist V. "Spinning in 

Persia," 80. 

- Roth, H. L. (3) "Natives of Sarawak, British N. Borneo." 

1 Simmonds, P. L. "Ure's cotton manufacture," I, 226. 

2 Taggart, W. S. "Cotton spinning," I, Introd., p. xxvii. 

- "Tops." Arlington Mills, Lawrence, Mass. (Illustration.) 

1 Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," I, 193. 

5 Vickerman, C. "Wool spinning." 

2 Walton, P. "Story of textiles." 

4 Walton, W. "Cotton in Bombay Presidency." 

5 Watson, J. F. "Textile manufactures and costumes of India," 

- Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." (Illustration.) 
5 Wilkinson, F. "The story of the cotton plant." 

I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Banerjei (^), PL 7. Woman spinning cotton. 
Baines, p. 68. Teakwood wheel. 

118. One-thread wheel. 
Brooks, p. 63. Spinning by hand in a colonial home. 
Butterworth, p. 181, fig. 2. Hindoo wheel, 
fig. 3. Britain wheel. 
Cavendish, p. 52. Spinning. 
Earl, p. 36. Wool wheel in background. 

197. Wool spinning. 
Gibbs, p. 25. Wool wheel. 
Gilroy (2), PL 2 b. Egyptian woman spinning. 
Guest, PL 3. Roving by hand wheel. 



42 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Guest, PL 3. Spinning by hand wheel. 
Hooper (^) (*), fig. 6. Sarawak native spinning. 
Horner collection, PL 2, i. Wheel from India. 

2, 3. Three spindle wheel from China 

(with treadle). 

3. Wheel from Teneriffe, Canary Islands. 
James, p. 13, fig. 9. Spinning with wool wheel. 

Journal Indian art and industry. 

VIII, Banerji (^), PL 81. Woman spinning cotton. 
X, Brandon, PL 10. Spinning woolen yarn. 
X, Silberrad, PL 14. Spinning cotton. 
Lindner, p. i. One- thread spinning wheel. 
Magazines. See Magazine Illustration. 
Marsden 0), p. 194. Indian girl spinning. 

195. Single thread spinning. 
Murphy, II, p. 138. Primitive spinning wheel. 

Ill, 60. Spinning and doubling for the Cashmere shawl. 
Oppel, p. 207. Spinning wheel of India. 
223. English spinner. 
546. Spinning wheel of Turkestan. 
552. Hand spinning in China (wheel worked by foot). 
Pictorial Gallery of Arts. 

I, p. 96. Hindoo woman spinning cotton. 
104. Jersey wheel. 
Reliquary and illustrated archaeology. 

V, p. 80. Spinning in Persia. 
Roth, p. 31. Spinning wheel. 
Simmonds, p. 226. Jersey wheel. 

227. Hindoo spinning cotton yarn. 
"Tops," p. 13. Fourteenth-century wool wheel. 
Ure, p. 194. Jersey wheel. 

195. Hindoo spinning cotton yarn. 
Vickerman, p. 197. Hindoo spinner. 
199. One-thread wheel. 
201. Spinning (wheel turned by crank). 



SPINNING TYPES 43 

Walton, p. 52. Japanese spinner. 

60. Ancient Egyptian spinning. 

64. A Hindoo spinning cotton yarn. 

112. Spinning by hand wheel. 
Walton, Series 2, No. 19. The spinning wheel. 

20. The spinning wheel at work. 
Watson, p. 9. Colonial wool wheel. 

13. Syrian spinning. 
Wilkinson, p. 117. Jersey spinning wheel. 
Woolman and McGowan, p. 21. The Gharka wheel. 

22. The great wheel. 

VI 
SAXONY WHEEL 
Distinctive Characteristics 

Earliest spinning contrivance for carrying on all three 
processes continuously : a spinning wheel with auto- 
matic-winding spindle rotated by foot. A distaff 
may be attached or separate. 

No attenuating device : both hands draft. 

Twisting device : a spindle with flyer and independently 
moving bobbin. 

First automatic winding device : the spindle-bobbin. 

First continuous spinning : the three processes carried on 
simultaneously. 

Outline 

Example : Saxony wheel of Europe. 
Implement — 

a. Two-band spinning wheel. 

b. One-band spinning wheel (a later development). 



44 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 




Reproduced by permission from Hooper's Hand Loom 
Weaving, Macmlllan, U.S.A., and John Hogg, London. 

Fig. 12. — Spinning Cotton on Saxony Wheel 

This treadle wheel, worked by foot power, frees both hands to draft the 
rove or carding of cotton. The spindle simultaneously twists and 
winds. 



SPINNING TYPES 



45 




Fig. 13. — Spinning Flax on Saxony Wheel 

The flax is drawn from the distaff and drafted before passing it on to the 
spindle for twisting and winding. 



46 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

I. Standard supporting spindle, distaff, drive wheel 
with attached treadle for driving wheel. (Ex- 
ception : the Picardy wheel turned by crank.) 




Fig. 14. — Leonardo da Vinci's Spindle, 1500 
(A drawing found in one of his sketch-books) 

This spindle can simultaneously twist and wind. Bobbin (left of center) 
with large pulley (center) runs loosely on spindle shaft. Flyer (ex- 
treme left) and small pulley (right of center) are attached to spindle 
shaft. A band about each pulley rotates the bobbin and flyer at 
different speeds, while the end attachment (extreme right) regulates 
the position of bobbin and flyer during winding. 




Fig. 15. — Saxony Spindle, 1530 
(The first fly spindle put to practical use) 

This more compact double-functioned spindle twists and winds contin- 
uously, spreading the yarn on the bobbin by a row of hooks on 
one arm of the flyer. The spinner from time to time shifts the 
yam from one hook to the other. The flyer wheel (right) is larger 
than the bobbin wheel next it and so rotates less rapidly than the 
bobbin wheel. 

2 . Horizontal spindle supported at both ends, with 

flyer and bobbin moving at different speeds. 
(Later two spindles were placed on spinning 
wheel. Still later there was an automatic 
spreader for yarn.) 

3. (a) drive wheel with two bands, one to spindle, 

one to bobbin. 



SPINNING TYPES 



47 



(b) drive wheel with one band to spindle, drag 
of yarn retards bobbin. 
4. Distaff usually present. 




The Saxony Spindle at Work 



The rove to be spun is passed through the hollow spindle end and on to 
the flyer hooks when it is tied to the bobbin shaft. When the large 
wheel (extreme right) is turned, the two connecting bands give rapid 
motion to the flyer and more rapid to the bobbin. The flyer twists 
the rove and also spreads the twisted yarn on the bobbin, while the 
bobbin winds on. 



Power — Foot propels wheel (13). 

Hands attenuate. 
Motion — Continuous, the three processes proceed simul- 
taneously (11, lie). 

I. attenuating, twisting, winding (triple process). 



48 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Process — Attenuation by hands (12). 
Twisting by spindle-flyer. 
Winding by spindle-bobbin. 

1. Raw material pulled from distaff, or from carded 

roll in lap, and after attaching to spindle, it 
is fed to spindle, attenuating while doing so 
(8, 8d, Be). 

2. At the same time drive wheel turned by treadle 

rotates flyer and bobbin, which twist and wind 
on the spun yarn continuously (9, 9e) (lO, lOg.) 

3. Yarn may be respun for a harder twist, or 

doubled for two-ply. 

Economic Gain 

In production : 

Greater speed given through division of labor by add- 
ing foot power to propel, and freeing both hands for 
drafting. 

The double-functioned spindle automatically winds 
while twisting. 

All three spinning processes simultaneous. 

Distaff adds ease in caring for raw material. 
In product : 

Better attenuated yarn through the use of the thumb 
and fingers of both hands. 

Rounder thread from passing through spindle opening. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

2 Barker, A. F. "Textiles." 

I Blount, Mrs. G. "The story of a homespun web." 

- Brooks, E. C. "Story of cotton." (Illustration.) 



SPINNING TYPES 49 

I Briiggemann, H. "Die Spinnerei." 

- Clapham, J. H. "The woollen and worsted industries." 

(Illustration.) 

- Draper, G. O. "Labor-saving looms." (Illustration.) 

4 Earl, A. M. "Home life in colonial days," 174. 

- Emery, M. S. "How to enjoy pictures." (Illustration.) 

1 Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Spinning." 

2 Garnet, A. "Hand spinning." 

2 Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle past, present and future." 
(•'') Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX, 3121. 
("•) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914. 

I Horner collection in Belfast Municipal Museum. 

1 Horniman Museum handbook, II, 38. 

2 James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 335. 
I Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei;" 2. 

I Marsden, R. Q-) "Cotton spinning." 

1 Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," II. 

2 Nasmith, J. "Students' cotton spinning." 

I New International Encyclopedia. "Spinning." 

- Oppel, A. "Die BaumwoUe." (Illustration.) 

- Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. (Illustration.) 

I Simmonds, P. L. "Ure's cotton manufacture," I, 235. 
6 Taggart, W. S. Cotton spinning, I. Intro. XXVIII. 
I Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture in Great Britain," I, 205. 
I Warden, A. J. "The linen trade ancient and modern," 687. 

5 Walton, P. "Story of textiles." 

5 Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." 

3 Wilkinson, F. "Story of the cotton plant." 
I Woolman and McGowan, "Textiles." 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Barker, p. 87. Double-grooved wheel. 

88. Diagram of flyer and bobbin. 
Blount, figs. 11-17. Flax wheel and parts. 

E 



50 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Brooks, p. 59. Early flax wheel. 

Briiggemann, p. 36 a. Spindle with bobbin and flyer. 

b. Spinning wheel with one band. 

c. Spinning wheel with two bands. 
Clapham, p. 32. Spinning wool on Saxony wheel. 
Draper, p. 23. Colonial spinner. 

Earl, p. 74. Flax wheel by Whittier's fireplace. 

186. Flax spinning. 
Emery, p. 107. Old spinner, by Maas. 
Garnett, pp. 10, 15. Flax wheel. 
Hooper (i), fig. 7. Spinning with wheel. 
Hooper (^) (^), fig. 22. Leonardo da Vinci's drawing of flyer. 
Horner collection, Belfast museum. 

PL I . Wheels from Ireland ; England ; Hungary ; Tus- 
cany ; Upper Austria. 

4. Wheels from Picardy, France ; Cambrai, France. 

5. Exceptional wheel from Holland ; wheel from Rhine- 
land, Germany. 

6. Wheels from Bavaria, Germany; Wxirtemberg, Ger- 
many. 

7. Wheels from Bohemia ; Russia. 

8. Wheels from Tyrol ; Poland ; Portugal ; Russia. 
Lindner, p. 2. Spinning wheel. 

2. Flyer and bobbin spindle. 

74. Spindle of Leonardo da Vinci. 
Magazines. See Magazine Illustration. 
Marsden, p. 207. Spindle, flyer and bobbin. 
Murphy, II, p. 134. Lady Hamilton as spinstress. (Painting by 
Romney.) 

140. Saxony wheel. 

141. Saxony spindle and flyer. 
Oppel, p. 218. Spinning wheel of Johann Jiirgens. 
Pictorial Gallery of Arts. 

p. 108. Spinning wheel. 
108. Flax spinning wheel. 




Fig. 17. — High's Jenny, First Multiple Spinning, 1763-4 

Six-multiple spinning frame built on the principle of the Hand Wheel. High at back 
is the first mechanical drafting device — - clove bars tightly clasping six hnes of 
rove. 




Fig. i8. — Hargreaves' Improved Jenny, 1767 

Right, horizontal moving carriage with clove bars is shoved back and 
forth by left hand. Drive wheel turned by right hand rotates 
spindles by means of endless bands and a cylinder. Center, row of 
8 to 16 rove bobbins. Left, row of 8 to 16 non-automatic spindles. 
The Jenny here is ready to wind; its carriage has drafted rove on 
its outward course and the spindles have put in twist ; now they are 
ready to wind on with the inward run of the carriage. 



SPINNING TYPES 5 1 

Rohn, p. 5. Treadle spinning wheel. 
Simmonds, p. 234. Domestic flax wheel. 

235. Spindle, flyer, bobbin. 
Ure, p. 204. Domestic flax wheel. 

205. Spindle, flyer, bobbin. 
Walton, p. 68. Domestic flax wheel. 

252. Flax spinning. 
Watson, p. 7. Spinning with crude wheel and distafif. 
8. "Gossip" in olden times. 

10. Colonial flax wheel. 

11. Dutch wheel. 

Woolman and McGowan, p. 25. The flax wheel. 

27. Detail of flyer. 

VII 
JENNY SPINNING FRAME 

Distinctive Characteristics 

Earliest contrivance for spinning a number of threads 
and one which performs all three processes mechani- 
cally : a frame holding drive wheel, row of spindles, a 
moving carriage and row of rove bobbins ; built on 
principle of Jersey wheel. 

First mechanical attenuating device for stretched rove : 
carriage receding from spindles. 

Twisting device : row of vertical spindles of the Jersey 
wheel type. 

Winding device : spindles and the returning carriage. 

Spinning intermittent. 

Outline 

Example : Hargreaves' spinning jenny. 
Implement — Spinning jenny. 



52 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

I. frame supporting row of vertical spindles (Jersey 
wheel type), drive wheel, a moving carriage 
and creel of rove bobbins. 




19. — Cross Section or Hargreaves' Jenny 

The Jenny here pictured is ready to draft and twist. The carriage is starting 
on its outward run with the rove clasped between the clove bars. As the 
left hand moves the carriage outward towards the worker the rove be- 
tween the spindles and clove is drafted. Meanwhile the right hand and 
drive wheel turn the spindles which twist the rove. 

2. spindles with faller-wire at back of frame. 

3. moving carriage with clove bars. 

4. drive wheel turned by crank rotates spindles by 

means of band and cylinder. 
Power — Right hand propels wheel (l3). 

Left hand moves carriage and faller-wire (earlier toe- 
managed faller-wire.) 



SPINNING TYPES 



53 



Motion — Intermittenf(ll, Hf)- 

1. attenuating and twisting (compound process) 

2. winding. 
Process — Stretching by moving carriage (12). 

Twisting by spindle. 

Winding by spindle and moving carriage. 

1. Carriage placed in front of spindles 

and rove bobbins on creel, rove 
carried through clove bars to 
spindles. 

2 . Carriage recedes short distance from 

spindles measuring off length of 
rove to be spun, clove bars then 
close (8, 8f). 

3. Carriage recedes to end of traverse 

stretching rove, while spindles 
rotated by drive wheel give 
twist to stretched rove (9, 9d, g). 

4. Carriage stops, spindles put in more 

twist. 

5. Carriage slightly backs, faller-wire 

drops carrying yarn from spin- 
dle-tip to winding position. 

6. Carriage returns to spindles as spun 

yarn is wound on (lO, lOd). 



Fig. 20. — Spin- 
dle OF Jenny 



Economic Gain 

In production : 

Multiplication of threads, one person 
works a number of spindles, only 



This non-auto- 
matic spindle is 
like that of the 
Jersey Wheel. 
It intermit- 
tently twists 
and winds. 
(The spindle 
shaft and whorl 
are white.) 



54 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

limited to strength and endurance of man to run 

machine. 
Mechanical attenuation of yarn ; limited to definite 

length. 
In product (no gain) : 

Yarn not strong (inferior to that from Saxony wheel) . 
QuaHty of product not in proportion to quantity of 

product. 
Inferior yarn from " stretch " attenuation. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

I Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture," 155. 

3 Brooks, E. C. "Story of cotton," 86. 
I Briiggemann, H. "Die Spinnerei." 

- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustration.) 

4 Chapman, S. J. "Cotton industry and trade." 

I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Spinning," "Cotton manufacture." 
-Farrar, F. L. "Factories and great industries." (Illustrations.) 
4 Gibbs, C. "Household textiles." 
I Guest, R. "Cotton manufacture." 

- Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle : past, present and future." 

(Illustration.) 

(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX, 3121. 
(■*) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914. 

1 James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 345. 

2 Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." 
I Marsden, R. Q) "Cotton spinning." 

4 Montgomery, J. "Cotton spinning." 
I Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," III. 
I Nasmith, J. "Students' cotton spinning," 16. 
I New International Encyclopedia. "Spinning." , 

- Nystrom, P. H. "Textiles." (Illustration.) 
Oppel, A. "Die Baumwolle." (Illustration.) 



SPINNING TYPES 55 

- Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. (Illustration.) 

2 Priestman, H. "Principles of woolen spinning," 23. 

I Simmonds, P. L. "lire's cotton manufacture," I, 227. 

3 Taggart, W. S. "Cotton spinning," I. Introduction XXXII. 

1 Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," I, 195. 

- Vickerman, C. "Wool spinning." (Illustration.) 

2 Walton, P. "Story of textiles," 142 [picture legend] 136. 
I Wilkinson, F. "Story of the cotton plant." 

I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

Baines, p. 158. Spinning jenny. 

Brooks, p. 86. Spinning jenny. 

Briiggemann, p. 37. Hargreaves' mule-jenny spinning machine. 

Butterworth, p. 181, fig. 5. Jenny of 1764. 

Farrar, p. 14. Hargreaves' spinning jenny. 

Guest, PL 6. High's jenny. 

7. The improved jenny. 
Hooper (^) (*), fig. 23. Hargreaves' spinning jenny. 
James, p. 343, fig. 2. Hargreaves' spinning machine, 
Lindner, p. 75. Jenny spindle. 

76. Outline of jenny. 
Marsden, p. 203. Hargreaves' jenny improved. 
Murphy, III, p. 40. Hargreaves' spinning jenny, 
Nystrom, p. 21. Spinning jenny. 
Oppel, p. 225. Hargreaves' spinning jenny. 
Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I, p. 97. Hargreaves' jenny. 
Priestman, p. 24. Diagram of Hargreaves' jenny. 
Simmonds, I, p. 231. Hargreaves' spinning jenny, improved form, 
Ure, I, p. 199. Hargreaves' spinning jenny, improved form. 
Vickerman, p. 207. Hargreaves' jenny. 
Walton, p. 136. High's jenny. 

142. Improved jenny. 
Wilkinson, p. 124. Hargreaves' jenny. 
Woolman and McGowan. Hargreaves' spinning jenny. 



56 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

VIII 
WATER FRAME 

Distinctive Characteristics 

Earliest spinning contrivance where the three processes 
are mechanical and continuous : a frame with drive 
wheel, roller drawing device, and row of automatic- 
winding flyer-spindles so arranged as to move in unison 
and with power applied at one point ; built on prin- 
ciple of Saxony wheel. 

First mechanical attenuating device for drawn rove : a 
series of pairs of rollers moving at increased speeds. 

Twisting device : row of flyer-spindles. 

Winding device : the row of automatic- winding spindles. 

Spinning continuous. 

Outline 

Example : Arkwright's Water frame. 
Implement — Water frame. 

1. frame with row of vertical spindles, drawing rollers, 

creel of rove bobbins and driving mechanism. 

2. flyer-spindles with automatic bobbin for building 

cop. 

3 . series of pairs of drawing rollers in front of rove creel. 

4. cog-wheel, shaft and drum for driving. 

Power — Horse power propels entire mechanism (13). 

Later, water power. 

Still later, steam power (1790). 
Motion — Continuous (ll, llg). 

I. attenuating, twisting and winding. 




Fig. 21. — Arkwright's First Water Frame, 1770 

The first spinning contrivance where all three processes are mechan- 
ical and continuous. 




Fig. 22. — Arkwright's Improved Water Frame 

Built on the principle of the Saxony Wheel, but with an improved method of roller 
drafting. Above, draft rollers. Below, flyer spindles. Left, wheel which propels 
the entire mechanism. 



SPINNING TYPES 57 

Process — ^ Drawing by rollers (12). 
Twisting by spindle-flyer. 
Winding by spindle-bobbin. 

1. Creel filled with rove bobbins, rove passed to 

drawing rollers. 

2. Cog-wheel, shaft and drum set all parts of frame 

in motion. 

3. Rove drawn as it passes between successive pairs 

of rollers moving at increased speeds (8, 8g). 

4. Spindle twists drawn rove as it comes from last 

drawing roller and winds twisted yarn on 
bobbin (9, 9e, f, 10, lOg, h). 

Economic Gain 

In production : 

Mechanical working of all processes. 

Union of all parts in concerted action. 

Automatically winding spindle. 
In product : 

Not very fine yarn. 

Hard twist, suitable for warp. 

Strong and even yarn from improved attenuation by 
drawing. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

I Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture," 147. 
I Barker, A. F. "Textiles." 
3 Brooks, E. C. "Story of cotton," 85. 
I Briiggeman, H. "Die Spinnerei." 

- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustra- 
tion.) 



58 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

S Chapman, S. J. "Cotton industry and trade." 

1 Encyclopaedia Britannica. " Spinning," " Cotton manufacture," 

"Woolen and worsted manufacture." 

- Farrar, F. A. " Factories and great industries." (Illustration.) 

4 Gibbs, C. "Household textiles." 

- Guest, R. "Cotton manufacture." (Illustration.) 

2 Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle: past, present, future." 

(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts LX, 3 121. 
(^) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914. 
I James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 343. 

- Lindner, G. " Spinnerei und Weberei." (Illustration.) 
I Marsden, R. "Cotton spinning." 

5 Montgomery, J. "Cotton spinning," 149. 

I Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," III. 

3 Nasmith, J. "Students' cotton spinning." 

I New International Encyclopedia. "Spinning." 

- Oppel, A. "Die BaumwoUe." (Illustration.) 

- Pictorial Gallery of Arts, London I. (Illustration.) 

I Simmonds, P. L. "Ure's cotton manufacture," I, 237, 245, 255. 
3 Taggert, W. S. "Cotton spinning," I. Introduction. 
I Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," I, 232. 

1 Vickerman, C. "Wool spinning," 204. 

2 Walton, P. "Story of textiles," 154 (picture legend). 
I Wilkinson, F. "The story of the cotton plant." 

I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

Baines, p. 139. Paiil's spinning machine. 

152. Sir Richard Arkwright's spinning machine. 
Barker, p. 90, 92, 93, 97, 98. Drafting rollers. 

95. Arkwright's water frame. 
Briiggemann, p. 38. Arkwright's spinning machine. 
Butterworth, p. 181, fig. 4. Roller spinning frame. 

fig. 6. Water frame. 
Farrar, p. 15. Arkwright's spinning machine, 1769. 



SPINNING TYPES 59 

Guest, PI. 8. Section of the water frame, 
g. Front view of ■ water frame. 
Hooper (^) (■*), fig. 22. Paiil or Arkwright drawings for rollers. 

24. Arkwright's water frame. 
James, p. 343, fig. i. Arkwright's spinning machine. 
Lindner, p. 75 a. Spindle of water frame. 
Marsden, p. 212. Arliwright's spinning frame. 

213. Spinning frame, section. 
Murphy, III, p. 45. Arkwright's water frame. 
Oppel, p. 227. Arkwright's water frame. 
Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. 
, p. 96. Arkwright's spinning machine. 
Simmonds, I, p. 255. Arkwright's water frame. 
Ure, I, p. 232. Arkwright's water frame. 
Vickerman, p. 205. Roller drawing. 

Walton, p. 154. Arkwright's water frame with patent specifica- 
tions. 
Wilkinson, p. 130. Arkwright's machine (after Baines). 
Woolman and McGowan, p. 35. Arkwright's water frame. 

IX 
HAND MULE 

Distinctive Characteristics 

Earliest mechanical contrivance for spinning fine yarn : a 
frame compounded of the Water frame and the Jenny, 
with new form of moving carriage, bearing spindles. 

First mechanical device for a double attenuation of rove : 
rollers for drawing and receding carriage for stretching. 

Twisting device : row of spindles of Jenny type which 
twist while moving and while stationary. 

Winding device : spindles on returning carriage. 

Spinning intermittent. 



6o 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



Outline 

Example : Crompton's mule. 
Implement — Mule spinning frame. 

I. frame with drawing device, headstock and moving 
carriage with spindles of Jersey wheel type. 




Fig. 23. — Crompton's Hand Mule 

Crompton's Mule combined the best points of the Jenny and 
Water frame. Double drafting was secured by the draw- 
ing rollers and the moving carriage. 

2. pairs of drawing rollers and creel of rove bobbins. 

3. carriage that may be wheeled out and back with 

row of spindles. 

4. headstock with driving parts. 

Power — Hand ; later horse ; water for most of work. 

Hand and knee managed carriage and the winding on. 
Motion — Intermittent with three separate movenients 
(11, llh). 



SPINNING TYPES 



6i 



1. Attenuating. 

2. Attenuating and twisting. Twisting. 

3. Winding. 

Process — Attenuating first by drawing rollers and 
second through stretching by receding car- 
riage (12). 




Fig 24. — Cross Section of Hand Mule 

Upper right, drawing rollers attached to frame. Center, moving carriage with 
spindles. Upper left, propelling hand wheel. 



Twisting by spindles. 

Winding by spindles and returning carriage. 

1. Rove bobbins placed on creel, carriage in front 

of rollers. 

2. A short stretch of rove drawn from bobbins through 

drawing rollers to' slightly faster receding 
carriage with slowly rotating spindles (8, 8i, 
9, 9d, g). 



62 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

3. Rollers stop delivering rove and hold fast, 

spindles rotate more rapidly while carriage 
slackening pace continues to end of course. 

4. Carriage backs a short distance to reheve strain 

on yarn ; spindles add more twist. 

5. Spindles stop; faller-wire drops carrying yarn from 

spindle tip to winding position (10, lOe). 

6. Yarn wound on rotating spindles as carriage 

returns to first position. 

Economic Gain 

In production : 

Spindles of Jenny transferred from standard to car- 
riage. 

Improved moving carriage. 

A loss in speed from Water Frame, a gain over Jenny. 

A loss in expense, mule required highly skilled manual 
labor. 
In product : 

Finer, more elastic superior yarn. 

More evenly drawn because of combined roller and 
spindle draft. 

More evenly twisted from stretch during twisting. 

More gently spun, less strain on rove during attenu- 
ating. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

I Baines, E. " Cotton manufacture," 197. 

I Barker, A. F. "Textiles." 

I Briiggemann, H. "Die Spinnerei." 

3 Chapman, S. J. "Cotton industry and trade," 54, 68. 



SPINNING TYPES 63 

I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Spinning," "Cotton manufacture," 

"Woolen and worsted." 
I Guest, R. "Cotton manufacture," 21. 

- Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle : past, present and future." 

(Illustration.) 

(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX, 31 21. 

('') Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914. 
I James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 346. 
I Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei," 76. 
I Marsden, R-C) "Cotton spinning." 
I Montgomery, J. "Cotton spinning," 167. 

1 Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," III. 

2 Nasmith, J. "Students' cotton spinning," 17. 

- Oppel, A. "Die BaumwoUe." (Illustration.) 

I Simmonds, P. L. "lire's cotton manufacture," I, 277. 

3 Taggart, W. S. "Cotton spinning," I. Introduction. 
I Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," I, 262. 

1 Vickerman, C. "Wool spinning." 

2 Walton, P. "Story of textiles," 56 [picture legend]. 
2 Wilkinson, F. " Story of the cotton plant." 

5 Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." 
I Zipser, J. "Textile raw materials," 190. 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Baines, p. 207. Mule frame. 
Briiggemann, p. 40. Crompton's mule-jenny. 
Guest, PL 12. The mule. 

Hooper {^) (4), fig. 25. Crompton's mule. (Bolton Museum.) 
James, p. 343, fig. 3, Crompton's spinning machine. 
Lindner, p. 76. Handmule. 
Magazines. See Magazine JUustration. 
Montgomery, PI. III. The mule-jenny. 
Murphy, III, p. 52. Crompton's mule. 
56. Mule of 1820. 



64 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Oppel, p. 228. The mule-jenny. 
Simmonds, II, PL 6. The mule-jenny. 
Ure, II, PL 6. The mule-jenny. 
Vickerman, p. 211. Crompton's mule. 
Walton, p. 56. The mule or the muslin wheel. 
Wilkinson, p. 141. Crompton's spinning mule. 

X 

SELF-ACTING MULE 
Distinctive Characteristics 

First machine for spinning fine yarn without manual 
help : the hand mule very much enlarged and perfected 
to work entirely automatically. 

Attenuating device : pairs of drawing rollers and spindles 
on moving carriage. 

Twisting device : row of Jenny spindles fitted with cop 
bobbins. 

Winding device : moving carriage and spindles so ad- 
justed to their varying speeds as to work automatically. 

Spinning intermittent. 

Outline 

Example : Roberts' mule. 

Implement — Self-acting cotton mule. 

1. machine with frame, headstock and moving 

carriage. 

2. frame with drawing rollers and rove creel. 

3. moving carriage with row of Jenny spindles fitted 

with cop bobbins and automatic faller and 
counter-faller wires. 



SPINNING TYPES 
I. Period. 



65 




Fig. 25. — ^FouR Stages of Mule Spinning 

4. headstock communicating motion to all parts, care- 
fully adjusted to the many varied movements of 
machine. 
Power — Steam (13). 



66 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Motion — -Intermittent, with three movements (ll, llh). 

1 . Attenuating. 

2. Attenuating and twisting. Twisting. 

3. Winding, 

Process — Drawing by rollers and stretching by moving 
carriage (l2). 
Twisting by spindles. 

Winding by spindles, faller and counter-faller wires on 
moving carriage. 

1. Rove bobbins placed on creel, carriage in front 

of rollers. 

2. Rove delivered to first pair of rollers and drawn 

as it passes between each succeeding pair, 
when it is delivered to slowly revolving spindles 
of the receding carriage which further lengthens 
it by stretching (8, 8i, 9, 9g). 

3. When carriage has covered some distance of path 

the rollers cease delivering rove and shut 
close ; spindles revolve more rapidly while 
carriage moves to end of course. 

4. Carriage stops a moment, spindles continue to add 

twist. 

5. Carriage backs off short distance to ease high ten- 

sion caused by increasing twist. 

6. Carriage stops, spindles reverse rotation to pay 

off yarn wrapped about spindle point above 
cop bobbin, when two guide wires for winding 
on yarn assume proper positions. 

7. Carriage returns to rollers, while spindles with 

aid of the guide wires slowly wind yarn on 
cop (10, lOe), 



SPINNING TYPES 67 

Economic Gain 

In production : 

Higher spindle speed. 

Admirable concert of all parts of machine. 

Increase of spindles per machine. 

Greater length wound on each cop. 

But — 

More complicated. 

Requires more power to drive. 

Requires greater intelligence of tender. 
In product : 

Finest and most perfect machine-spun yarn. 

Better wound yarn. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

- Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture." (Illustration.) 

I Beaumont, R.(^) "Wool manufacture" (Wool mule), 63. 

1 Beaumont, R.(^) "WooUen and worsted" (Wool mvde), 

158. ■ 

- Brooks, E. C. "Story of cotton." (Illustration.) 

2 Clapham, J. M. "The woollen industries," 53. 

2 Cyclopedia textile work, I. "Cotton spinning," 265. 

2 Cyclopedia textile work, II. "Woolen and worsted spinning," 

233. 
2 Dooley, W. H. "Textiles." 
I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Cotton manufacture," "Wool 

manufacture." 

- Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle : past, present and future." 

(Illustration.) 

(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts LX, 3 121. 
(^) Report Smithsonian Institution, 19 14. 



68 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

2 Huiiter, J. A. "Wool," 52. 

I Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei," 76. 

1 Marsden, R. (0 "Cotton spinning." 

2 McLaren, W. S. B. "Spinning woollen and worsted." 
I Montgomery, J. "Cotton spinning." 

I Morris and Wilkinson. "Elements of cotton spinning." 

(Technical.) 
I Mundorf, E. "Die Appretur der Wool- und Halbwoll- 

waren." 
I Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," III. 
I Nasmith, J. "Students' cotton spinning." (Technical.) 
I New International Encyclopedia. "Spinning." 

- Oppel, A. "Die BaumwoUe." (Illustration.) 

3 Peake, R. J. "Cotton." 

- Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. (Illustration.) 

I Priestman, H. "Principles of woollen spinning." 

I Radcliffe, W. J. "Manufacture of woollen and worsted yarns," 

259- 
I Rohn, G. "Die Spinnerei." (Illustration.) 
I Simmonds, P, L. "lire's cotton manufacture," II, 117. 

1 Taggart, W. S. " Cotton spinning," III. (Technical.) 

2 Thornley, T. "Cotton spinning," II, 1916 Ed. (Tech- 

nical.) 
I Todd, J. A. "The world's cotton crops," 345. 
I Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," II, 145. 
I Vickerman, C. "Wool spinning." 

- Walton, P. "Story of textiles." (Illustration.) 

- Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." (Illustration.) 
I Wilkinson, F. "Story of the cotton plant." 

I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." 
I Zipser, J. "Textile raw materials," 192. 



SPINNING TYPES 69 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

Baines, p. 207, fig. 3. Self-acting mule. 

211. Mule spinning. 
Barker, p. 105. Woolen mule. 
109. Worsted mule. 
Beaumont Q), p. 64. Mule spinning frame. 

66. Section mule spinning frame. 
Beaumont (2), p. 160. View self -actor mule. 
163. End elevation, mule. 

165. Self-actor mule. 

166. Self-actor mule. 

232. Section worsted self -actor mule. 
Brooks, p. 112. First cotton mill in United States. 

113. Modern mill, mule spinning. 
Clapham, p. 54. Woollen mule. 
Cyclopedia textile work. 
I, p. 273. Mule room. 

241. Self-acting mule. 
256. Mule' head. 
266-289. Mule spinning. 
II, p. 234. Mule. 

245. High speed mule. 
235-262. Mule spinning. 
Dooley, p. 137. Mule room. 
Encyclopaedia Britannica. 

fig. 9. Mule "Cotton manufacture." 

13. Spinning room. " Cotton manufacture." 
9. Woolen mule. "Wool manufacture." 
Hooper (*) (*), fig. 26. Modern spinning mule. 
Lindner, pp. 78, 79. Selfaktor. 

80, 82, 83, 84, 85. Diagram Selfaktor. 
Marsden, p. 240. Mule, side elevation. 
McLaren, p. 230. The woolen mule. 
Morris & Wilkinson, figs. 111-122. The spinning mvile. 



70 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Mandorf, p. S- Feinspinnmaschine. (Selfaktor.) 
Murphy, III, pp. 64-67. Self-actor mule. 
Nasmith, p. 377. The mule. 
Oppel, p. 228. Roberts' self-acting mule. 

231. Mule-Spinnmaschine. 
Peake, p. 59. Self-acting mule. 

67. Mule-spinning room. Electric power. 
Pictorial GaUery of Arts. 
I, p. 97. Self-acting mule. 
104. Wool mule. 
Priestman, figs. 83-1 11. The mule. 
Radcliffe, figs. 91, 92. Mule spinning. 
Rohn, pp. 55-59. Mule spinning. 
Simmonds, II, fig. 77. Self-actor mule. 

80. Cross section of spinning parts of self-actor 
mule. 
PI. 5. Self-acting mule. 
Taggart, III, figs. 9-140. Modern mule. 
Thornley, II, p. 220. Mule. 
Ure, II, fig. 77. Self -actor mule. 

80. Self -actor mule — Cross section of working 
parts. 
PL 5. Fine spinning mule. 
Vickerman, figs. 59-66. Self-actor mule. 
Walton, p. 208. A modern mule spinning-room. 
Watson, K., p. 66. Mule spinning frame. 
Wilkinson, F., pp. 148, 150, 154, 159. Self-acting mule. 
Woolman and McGowan. 
p. 39. Mule spinning. 
40. Detail of mule. 
Zipser, figs. 113-118. Mule (cotton). 

238. Mule frame (wool). 
241-244. Four stages on mule frame. 
270. Worsted mule. 



SPINNING TYPES 

XI 
FLYER, CAP AND RING SPINNING FRAMES 



71 




Fig. 26. — Cross Section, Flax Spinning Frame 

The flax on its way to the drawing rollers is passed through a tray of water. 
On the left the twisting is by cap spindle, on the right by flyer spindle. 

Distinctive Characteristics 

Perfected mechanical spinning frame : a spinning 
machine modeled after the Water frame, improved 
and simplified in its moving parts and run by 
power. 

Attenuating device : series of pairs of drawing rollers. 



72 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



Twisting device : the automatic 
flyer, cap or ring spindle. 

Winding device : the automatic 
winding spindle. 

Continuous spinning. 

Outline 

Examples : Flyer spinning frame ; 
Cap spinning frame ; Ring spin- 
ning frame. 

Implements — Continuous spin- 
ning frames of the above type. 

1. Frame with rove creel, draw 
rollers, spindles, driving 
mechanism. 

2. Creel with rove bobbins. 

3. Pairs of drawing rollers. 

4. Row of spindles with tube 
bobbins. 

a. flyer spindle, loose run- 
ning bobbin, lifter plate. 
*>., b. non-revolving cap spindle, 

revolving bobbin, lifter 
rail. 

c. ring spindle with attached 

bobbin, thread rail with 

guide wire, movable 

ring plate and ring with 

_ „ ^ hook traveler. 

Fig. 27. — Flyer Spindle 

Drawing rollers which draft (above). Spindle and flyer revolved by whorl 
below (white) twist and guide yarn. Loose tubular bobbin (black) resting 
on lifter plate (gray) winds on. 



6 



SPINNING TYPES 



73 




Fig. 28. — Ring Spindle 

Bobbin (black) firmly at- 
tached to spindle (white) 
which twists. Lifter ring 
plate (gray) with travel- 
ing hook; drag of yarn 
through hook winds on. 



Fig. 29.- 

F. Cone-shaped cap attached to stationary spin- 
dle; the drag of yarn on cap-edge winds on. 

/. Tubular bobbin revolving on spindle as axis 
is turned by hand about the whorl H ; the 
bobbin twists. 



74 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Power — Water wheel, later steam (13). 
Motion — Continuous (Hi). 

I. drawing, twisting, winding. 
Process — Drawing by rollers (12). 

Twisting by flyer, ring or cap spindle. 

Winding by same. 

1. Rove bobbins on creel pegs, rove passed to rollers. 

2. Rove drawn between drawing rollers (8, 8h). 

3. Rove twisted between last rollers and spindle 

(9, 9d). 

4. Yarn wound on bobbin (lO, lOi). 

a. flyer revolving winds yarn in cop form on 
a dragging behind bobbin, as bobbin is 
raised and lowered by lifter plate. 

b. spindle and cap stationary and bobbin re- 
volving builds cop as bobbin is lifted on rail. 

c. spindle and bobbin revolving in unison and 
traveler with drag builds cop. 

5. Full bobbins doffed, frame filled with fresh empty 

bobbins. 

Economic Gain 

In production and economy : 
Higher spindle speed. 
Continuous spindle spinning. 
Mounting more spindles on floor space. 
Simplicity of machine requiring less repairs. 
Employment of less skilled labor. 
Less expensive than Mule. 
Less labor. 



SPINNING TYPES 75 

In product : 
Coarse yarns. 

Superior strength, wiry smoothness. 
Not so perfect or fine as Mule yarn. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

I Baines, E. "History of cotton manufacture." 

3 Barker, A. F. "Textiles." 

1 Beaumont, R-O) "Wool manufacture." 

2 Beaumont, R.(^) "Woollen and worsted." 
I Briiggemann, H. "Die Spinnerei." 

- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illus- 
tration.) 

I Carter, H. R.C) "Modern flax, hemp and jute spinning." 

5 Carter, H. R.(^) "The spinning and twisting of long vegetable 
fibers." 

I Clapham, J. H. "The woolen and worsted industries," 49. 

4 Cyclopedia textile work, I. "Cotton spinning." (Technical.) 

4 Cyclopedia textile work, II. " Woolen and worsted spinning." 

(Technical.) 

5 Dooley, W. H. "Textfles." 

I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Cotton manufacture," "Woolen 

and worsted spinning." 
5 Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle : past, present and future." 
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts LX, 31 21. 
{*) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914. 

3 Hunter, J. A. "Wool." 

3 James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 577. 
I Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." 
I Marsden, R.(0 "Cotton spinning." 

1 McLaren, W. S. "Wool spinning." 

2 Montgomery, J. "Cotton spinning," 155. 

I Morris and Wilkinson. "Elements of cotton spinning." 
(Technical.) 



76 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

I Mundorf, E. "Die Appretur der Woll- und Halbwollwaren." 

I Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," III. 

I Nasmith, J. "Students' cotton spinning." (Technical.) 

I New International Encyclopedia. "Spinning." 

4 Peake, R. J. "Cotton." 

- Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. (Illustration.) 

I Radcliffe, J. W. "Manufacture of wooUen and worsted yarn." 

I Rohn, G. "Die Spinnerei." 

I Simmonds, P. L. "lire's cotton manufacture," II, 95. 

1 Taggart, W. S. "Cotton spinning," I. Introduction, III. 

(Technical.) 

2 Thornley, T. "Cotton spinning," II (1916 Edition). (Tech- 

nical.) 
4 Todd, J. A. "The world's cotton crop," 346. 

1 Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," II, 120. 
-Walton, P. "Story of textiles." (Illustration.) 

- Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." (Illustration.) 

2 Wilkinson, F. "Story of the cotton plant." 

3 Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." 
2 Zipser, J. "Textile raw materials." 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

Baines, p. 207. Throstle frame. 
Barker, p. 100. Ring spinning. 
102. Cap spinning. 
Beaumont Q), p. 91. Flyer spinning. 
94. Cap spinning. 
94. Ring spinning. 
172, 173. Woollen spinning frame. 
Beaumont, 228. Flyer spinning frame. 
229. Cap spinning frame. 
231. Ring spinning frame. 
Briiggemann, pp. 100, 102. Flachsfeinspinnmaschine. 
Butterworth, p. 181, figs. 7-9. Throstle frame. 

182, figs. 1-4. Cap, Ring and Fly frames. 







118. 






119. 






120. 






124. 


Carter (2) 


,P 


• 154- 
166. 
178. 


Clapham, 


P- 


50- 
52. 
56. 



SPINNING TYPES 77 

Carter Q), pp. 107, 108. Dry spinning flyer frame, 
no. Dry spinning ring frame, 
log, 112, 113. Section dry spinning flyer frame. 
Hot water spinning frame. 
Wet spinning frame. 
Section wet spinning ring frame. 
Section wet spinning flyer frame. 
Dry spinning frame. 
Section wet spinning frame. 
Part of ramie wet spinning frame. 
Flyer spinning frames. 
Cap spinning frames. 

Twisting frame for fancy yarns with ring 
spindles. 
Cyclopedia textile work. 

I, p. 208. Spinning frame. 

211. Ring spinning frame. 

227. Ring frame. 

230-253. Ring spinning. 
II, p. 213. Fly spinning frame. 

214. Method of drafting, twisting and winding. 

225. Cap spinning frame. 

226, 227. Bobbins for filling and warp. 

229. Ring spinning frame. 

230. Spindle of ring frame. 
Dooley, p. 45. Worsted spinning. 

135. Spinning room, cotton department. 
Encyclopaedia Britannica, 

"Cotton manufacture," fig. 7. Flyer spindle. 

8. Ring spindle. 
"Wool manufacture," fig. 15. Flyer spindle. 

17. Cap spindle. 
19. Ring spindle. 
Hooper (^) (f), fig. 27. Ring-spinning machine. 
James, PI. II. Crompton's spinning machine. 



78 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Lindner, p. 87. Fly-spinning machine. 

88, 90, 91. Ring-spinning machine. 
75, 96, 97. Ring-spindles. 
Marsden Q), p. 301. Ring frame for warp yarns, 
303. Section of ring frame. 
306. Ring spindle. 
312. Ring frame for spinning weft. 
McLaren, p. 151. Flyer spinning frame. 
161. Cap spinning frame. 
165, 168, 170. Ring spinning. 
Morris and Wilkinson. 

figs. 123-129. Ring frame, or "throstle." 
Mundorf, p. 7. Feinspinnmaschine. (Ring spinner.) 
Murphy, III, pp. 68, 69, 70. Throstle spinning frame. 
- 71. Cap spinning frame. 
79. Various forms of spindles. 
Nasmith, pp. 490, 491. Diagram ring spinning machine. 
Peake, p. 63. Ring spinning frame. 
Pictorial Gallery of Arts, London. 

I, p. 100. Silk spinning machine (flyer machine). 
Radcliffe, fig. 85. Flyer spinning. 

86. Cap spinning. 

87. Ring spinning. 
Flyer spinning frame. 
Cap spinning frame. 

90. Ring spinning frame. 
Rohn, pp. 60, 123. Ring spinning. 

143, 144, IS7, 159- Fly spinning. 
Simmonds, II, fig. 67. Throstle. 

68. Throstle, spinning parts. 
Taggart, III, figs. 145-178. Ring spinning. 
Ure, II, fig. 67. Throstle. 

68. Throstle, spinning parts. 
Walton, p. 226. Modern ring spinning mill. 
Watson, p. 65, Fly spinning frame. 



SPINNING TYPES 79 

Watson, p. 67. Modern ring spinning frame. 
Wilkinson, p. 161. Ring spinning frame. 
Woolman and McGowan. 
p. 41. Flyer. 

41. Cap of spinning frame. 

42. Ring of spinning frame. 

Zipser, fig. 107. Double fly frame for cotton. 

108. Double ring frame for cotton. 

148. Flax dry spinning frame. 

149. Wet spinning frame for flax. 

245. Double ring spinning frame for wool. 

271. Single worsted fly frame. 

272. Single worsted ring frame. 



CLOTH MAKING 

15 Weaving is a very old art that for centuries has 
supplied mankind with clothing, and comfort in 
Origin of his home surroundings. Previous to 
Weaving man's attempt to weave, the spiders, cat- 
erpillars and birds skillfully constructed nests for 
themselves of a rough sort of interlacing, and so 
were the first weavers. Whether or not primitive 
man got his idea from these crude interlacings 
has not come down to us. He might as easily 
have obtained it from plant structure in peculiar 
tropical leaf and stem forms, such as the lace tree 
of South America. Some think he copied it from 
the interweaving of cut rushes which had been 
tramped over on the dirt floors of the rude huts ; 
others believe he imitated the interlacing of date 
palm leaflets when crossed and tangled by the wind. 
In tropical countries to-day peoples of lower culture 
roof and side their crude shelters with these huge 
leaves, sometimes plaiting the leaflets, at other 
times letting them hang loose. In this last case 
they soon become so entangled as to suggest a sur- 
face little removed from rough matting. Whence 
the weaving idea came would be interesting to 
know, although were this possible quite probably 
80 



CLOTH MAKING 8l 

we should find that in different regions it had de- 
veloped from diverse sources. 

Its source, however, is immaterial. The impor- 
tant thing is that primitive man did begin to inter- 
weave the coarse materials close at hand . 

Activity 

m his environment, such as pliable twigs, in 
wide grasses and long palm leaflets. "^®"*^°'^ 
Of these weavings we have no record, for in the 
earliest accounts and among the most ancient 
remains the art appears in an advanced stage, thus 
furnishing no clew as to early method or origin. 
Its beginnings are lost in remote ages, for even in 
neolithic times there were skilled weavers. Be- 
tween the first rude interlacing and modern machine 
weaving there is a vast stretch in time, and an ex- 
penditure of much energetic effort for attainment, 
since, as has been said, "Civilization's pathway 
is strewn with evidences of labor to compass the 
mastery of the industry." This struggle was not 
continuous, for as in yarn making, there are periods 
of great activity interspersed with long seasons 
of rest, since "weaving is an art and the motions 
of the art spirit are not along plodding levels of 
material things, but by leaps and flights." In the 
series of weaving types that follow only the most im- 
portant developments are presented, with the accent 
upon the gain accomplished through each type 
as man responded to economic pressure with new 
devices to meet new situations. With his progress 
from savagery to civilization his needs multiplied 



82 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

with advance in culture, so that now weaving no 
longer ministers only to the necessities, but also 
to the luxuries. 

The present-day products of the loom are woven 
almost exclusively by the yard and handled in trade 
as piece goods, in yards of carpet, broadcloth, or 
muslin. Rugs and tapestries are an exception to 
this, but most weavings before coming into actual 
use must be cut and shaped, fitted and stitched, ere 
they are of service to mankind. Quite the reverse 
of this is the woven product of peoples of lower 
culture, most of whom weave their garments and 
furnishings entire, ready for wear and use without 
cutting, fitting, or stitching. Among these com- 
plete weavings are the poncho, the serape and the 
blanket of the American Indian. 
16 These loom weavings are to be distinguished from 
basketry plaiting and basketry weaving, which do 
not require a loom during their con- 
Weaves, struction. Plaiting is begun by placing 
Loom |-^Q Qj. three loose rushes or other long 

Weaves ^ _ ° 

strands on the ground in parallel position 
and crossing them by others with an interlacing, 
and then adding more strands to the left, the right, 
the near and the far sides. This possible progression 
in four directions distinguishes plaiting from 
weaving, which progresses in one direction only 
by the introduction of a weft strand which crosses 
a parallel series of warp strands. In plaiting there 
is no distinct warp or weft, as the strands plait in 



CLOTH MAKING 83 

four directions. It belongs to a large group of 
basketry technics which includes basketry weaving, 
but in none is an implement necessary to hold the 
strands during plaiting or weaving. The subject 
here is loom weaving of softer materials, which 
because of their flexibility require a frame, or 
loom, to secure the parallel warp strands during 
the weaving. In the crudest instances the materials 
may not be of spun or twisted yarns, as in the 
Ulmus-bark weavings of the Ainu and the Cedar- 
bark splint mattings of the American Indian of 
the Northwest. 

17 Barlow defines weaving as "an art by which 
threads of any substance are crossed and interlaced 
so as to be arranged into a perfectly weaving 
expanded form." This well describes I'efined 
the finished product, but does not give an idea of 
the process, and besides, this definition might 
equally well apply to plaiting. A true definition 
will picture the row of parallel warp strands with 
the uniting weft strand moving back and forth 
across the warp. Such a definition might read : 
Weaving is a process which unites a series of parallel 
strands, or warps, by a crossing strand, or weft, 
which may interlace, wrap, or twine as it moves 
back and forth across the warp strands to form an 
expanded surface. 

18 Murphy aptly likens the warp to the " bone and 
muscle of the body " and the weft to " flesh and 
skin." To form this warp and weft structure 



84 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

the warp strands, or foundation, must be arranged 
on the loom in a parallel series, a procedure termed 
Weaving loom mounting; while the weft strand, 
Processes q^ filling, must be passed through the 
parallel warp strands to unite them, a procedure 
termed wefting. Each of these activities includes 
three processes. For loom mounting, the warp 
strands must be measured off into equal lengths 
and arranged in a parallel series, a process called 
warping. The strands must be secured to the 
beam or beams, the process of beaming. The weft 
strand when uniting the warp strands passes over 
and under certain warp strands, but in its second 
crossing it passes over and under the strands which 
before it went under and over. This would be a 
tedious process were it not for a mechanical device 
which raises and lowers the alternate warp strands 
across the entire width of the loom, thus making 
sheds for the passage of the weft. These sheds 
were prepared during the warping, making ready 
the warp strands to be connected with the shedding 
■ device, a process termed heddling; while the process 
giving motion to the heddles for opening the sheds 
is shedding. The movement of the weft through 
the shed is picking ; and the beating close the 
weft strands is battening. In addition to these 
is a process termed letting-of and taking-on, 
which cares for the web as fast as it is woven, 
letting off unwound warp and taking on the 
woven web. 



CLOTH MAKING 85 

Thus we j&nd that weaving includes more processes 
than spinning, since the manufacture of cloth means 
the handling of two sets of threads, the warp and 
the weft. This includes warp processes for measur- 
ing off the warp, for laying it and for preparing the 
shedding ; beside weft processes for opening the 
sheds, throwing the weft and beating it up. All of 
these processes require specific devices either for 
warp manipulation or for weft manipulation. At 
first very simple implements were employed, but 
as time moved on they became more perfect and 
better fitted to the particular task in hand. To 
trace these important weaving improvements and 
developments is the pleasant undertaking of the 
next few pages. 

Warp Arrangement 

19 Securing the warp strands in an extended and 
parallel position takes precedence over all other 
weaving considerations, since holding -warp 
the warp in uniform arrangement is not stretching 
only the first step in order but the most important 
one. No interlacing of threads can take place 
until the warp strands are in position. Many 
writers in classifying the different kinds of weaving 
describe the simplest as that with stretched warp, 
like Two-beam loom weaving. Or, if they mention 
some of the simpler types, they omit discussing this 
essential and earlier phase of textile development: 
v/arp arranging and stretching. The five earliest 



86 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

types considered here are definitely concerned with 
the solving of this problem, the essential basis of 
all weaving, that of stretched warp strands held 
in parallel order and with equal tension. 

19a On the One-beam loom the warp strands hang 
loosely from the one beam, secured only at their upper 
ends ; and even this crude staying keeps them from 

19b freely slipping about. In this particular, Weighted 

warp weaving varies slightly from the last type, 

since again the suspended warp strands 

Devices ^ i i • 

for Warp are attached to the one beam at their 
stretching ^ppgj- ends. Here, however, a new de- 
vice is introduced, a weight fastened to the lower 
warp ends to hold the strands taut. This is a de- 
cided step toward stretched warp, but there is still 

19c much to strive for. The Two-bar loom presents an 
important advance, since here the warp is wrapped 
over two cylindrical cross-bars, or something which 
takes their place. The cross-bars are not true 
beams but serve merely as forms to keep the warp 
in a stretched position. In the Salish Indian loom 
of this type the warp does not pass over and over 
the bars, but over and back, turning upon a slender 
rod or a stretched cord. This rod or cord in reality 
is the true warp beam, making this a unique one- 

19d beam loom. The Frameless two-bar loom uses the 
same non-revolving bars for stretching the warp, but 
they are free, one being fastened to a distant object 
and the other to the weaver's belt. When this narrow 
fabric or belt loom is in use, the horizontal warp is 



CLOTH MAKING 87 

held taut by the position of the weaver. When it 
it is not in use it is rolled up and stowed away for 
future weaving. 

19e The problem of perfectly stretched warp is 
solved on the Two-beam loom, where there are 
present two beams, a warp and a cloth 
beam. Between these the warp strands stretched 
are stretched. To primitive peoples is ^^ 
due the credit of perfecting this most important 
feature in weaving. No better method of securing 
the warp in a parallel and taut condition has been 
evolved than their method of stretching it between 
two beams. This arrangement is still employed 
on the modern loom of to-day. 

20 Turning to another warp problem, that of lengthen- 
ing it for a longer web, we note that, although warp 
stretching became perfected with the ^eb 
Two-beam loom, warp lengthening for a Lengthening 
weaving which exceeded the length of the loom was 
not fully accomplished before the Perfected hand 

20a loom. The web from the One-beam loorri is most ele- 
mental in length, for it is limited to the height of the 
loom. It is true that mattings of coarse flat mate- 
rials may be twice the loom height, since the warp 
strands are suspended over the beam at their 
middle point. They hang to the ground on both 
sides and each is woven separately. All other 
weavings can be but once the loom height, since 
the warp is suspended below the beam and woven in 

20b one. The ancient Weighted warp loom shows an 



88 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

. advance in that its beam revolves, apparently to 
permit a longer fabric. Still as there is nothing 
which indicates a means for extending the lower 
warp ends, we must conclude that the function of 
the revolving beam was to bring the work within 
easy reach of the weaver rather than for lengthening. 

20c Webs from the Two-bar loom always measure 
twice the loom height, since the warp encircles 
the two bars, producing a weaving twice the dis- 
tance between them. 

21 Efforts to lengthen the web appear in different 

types. The One-beam loom and Weighted warp 

loom in general produce a web the height 

for Web of the loom ; the Two-bar loom produces 

Lengthening ^^^ ^^j^^ ^^^^ height. Thus length in 

these simpler types is restricted by the size of the 
loom. Attempts to overcome this restriction took 
two directions : that of extending the warp to a 
distant point beyond the loom ; and that of winding 
21a a longer warp on a revolving beam. In the two 
frameless looms, the Frameless two-bar loom with 
its far and near bars and the One-shaft loom with 
its bunched warp ends and near beam, the parts 
are free and so admit a variety of lengths. This 
is possible because the far bar of the first loom and 
the bunched ends of the second are . attached to 
distant posts, and the near bar of the first and 
near beam of the second are fastened to the belts 
of the weaver. So warp length in each case is 
determined by the weaver's position, although in 



CLOTH MAKING 89 

the first it is twice the length of the distance 
between the far post and the weaver. 

21b These last two examples are quite similar to 
looms extending the warp beyond the frame, as in 
the Two-shaft treadle loom. In this Extending 
method, the extension is usually run out ^^^^ 
in the direction of the warp end, or away from the 
weaver. But in a few localities in Africa the exten- 
sion moves in the direction both of the warp end and 
the cloth end. Here the weaver sits at the side 
of the loom, since the lack of a revolving cloth 
beam prevents the ordinary position of the weaver. 
No locality in the world shows a greater diversity 
in mode of warp extension than India. Most 
outdoor looms of that country have very long warp, 
extending to a distant post, with an attached rope 
which passes about the post and back to the side 
of the weaver. This allows him to release more 
warp as needed without quitting his position at the 
loom. Indoor cloth making presents a more serious 
problem, especially if the weaving room is small, for 
then the warp must be looped up to the ceiling. 
If the weaving room is large the warp is extended 
as on outdoor looms. 

21c The second manner of lengthening the warp, 
that of winding the longer strands on a revolving 
warp beam, is an ancient method, but still Revolving 
used to-day. It has never been improved Warp Beam 
on, as shown in the last four weaving types, for it 
furnishes a perfectly stretched warp, with a length 



90 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

between beams only sufficient to get the needed 
warp movement for heddles and batten. Thus it 
allows a very compact loom and one requiring little 
floor space. Strange as it may appear, it is to 
ancient Egypt that we must go for the first example 
of this modern device. If we can correctly judge 
from ancient wall paintings, it is here that we have 
the earliest record of the revolving warp beam. In 
the New Kingdom, fifteen hundred years before 
Christ, this people had evolved for their simple 
Two-beam loom the method of procuring a longer 
web by the use of the revolving warp beam. 

22 With both methods of warp lengthening, the 
extending and the coiling on a revolving warp beam, 
Revolving Came the need of a revolving cloth beam 
Cloth Beam ^q receive the finished web as fresh warp 
was either drawn in from the distant post or unrolled 
from the warp beam. Previous to the Two-beam 
loom, there were no distinct warp and cloth beams. 
In this type the cloth beam appears in two stages 

22a of development. First, the non-revolving beam 
is found on vertical looms for short webs and on 
the simplest horizontal looms pegged to the ground, 
as in the Egyptian mat loom. Here for wefting, 
after the first short section, the weaver sits upon the 

22b finished web. The second stage, the revolving cloth 
beam, occurs in its simplest form with the non- 
revolving warp beam. It is found on the horizontal 
loom pegged to the ground when it requires two 
weavers, one on each side ; and on vertical looms 



CLOTH MAKING 91 

requiring but one weaver, who sits in front. An in- 
teresting case of invention in this particular appears 
on the Navajo loom. Its cloth beam is non-re- 
volving. Feeling the need of some means to care 
for the finished web as sections of weaving are 
completed, the weavers lower fresh warp, and then 
fold the portion of completed web and stitch it to 

22c the non-revolving beam. The free cloth beam of 
the One-shaft treadle loom is attached to the 
weaver's belt in such a manner that it may be 
revolved to take on freshly woven web, but in the 
One-shaft loom the beam is non-revolving, so that 
the belt web is pulled over the beam when finished 
and secured by an iron pin. 

22d In the seventh, ninth, tenth and eleventh types 
of weaving both beams revolve, but only at inter- 
vals. When the cloth and the warp Automatic 
are to be freshly adjusted the weaver Beams 
must stop wefting, and wind on the woven cloth 
and unwind new warp strands. On the Power 

22e loom this is changed ; the two motions become 
continuous and automatic. The cloth beam 
" takes-on " the woven web and the warp beam 
" lets-off " fresh warp without the assistance of 
the weaver and without his stopping the wefting. 
Thus with the continuously revolving automatic 
cloth and warp beams web lengthening was brought 
to completion. 

23 Ancient Egyptian weaving displays an interesting 
diversity in warp lengthening. As noted, the mat 



92 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

weaving of this people admits a warp only the loom 

length, as both beams are non-revolving. The old 

linen loom of the Middle Kingdom de- 
Egyptian . 

Web picted on the tomb wall at Beni Hassan, 

eng ening ^^^ repeatedly been described and cop- 
ied, but frequently both copy and description are 
technically wrong. Latest researches have cleared 
up a number of facts concerning it, showing 
clearly that it is a horizontal loom pegged to the 
ground and supplied with a revolving cloth beam. 
Quite possibly it has a non-revolving warp beam and 
if so an extended warp. But this last is not certain, 
since the one illustration on the tomb at Beni Hassan 
is all that remains to judge by. The crude outlines 
suggest that the warp beam might have revolved, 
otherwise one set of the beam pegs would have had 
to be taken up and reset each time a short section 
of web was completed. This practice may have 
been resorted to, but it seems probable that these 
inventive weavers had thus early the revolving 
warp beam. The New Kingdom brought the 
vertical loom with improved warp arrangement 
on two revolving beams. Leaving ancient times, 
we find the Egyptian factory loom of the Middle 
Age shows an extended warp, such as is used in 
India. Here, however, it is not managed in the 
crude manner found in many parts of India, but 
the warp is perfectly stretched from a beam at- 
tached high on the side wall, by two long ropes 
instead of one. 



cloth making 93 

Wefting — Shedding 

24 As the threads of a fabric do not all run in one 
direction, provision must be made for the second 
series, or the crossing weft- threads. 

, r • 11 -1 Shedding 

Simplest weftmg, as has been said, con- 
sists of the slow and tedious process of entering 
the weft under and over single warp strands. It 
was necessary to find a more rapid method and one 
which mechanically opened the two series of warp 
strands for the intersecting weft. This is shedding, 
a process second in importance only to warp stretch- 
ing. From the earliest types there was a demand 
for such a process, although it did not become 
perfected for plain weaving before the Two-shaft 
treadle loom and for pattern weaving until the 
Jacquard loom. In early types a wish for greater 
speed and ease in manufacture forced the develop- 
ment of the process, but soon pattern making and 
later a desire for elaborate design necessitated even 
more perfect shedding contrivances. It is the 
manipulation of the lengthwise warp strands, for 
an easy passage of the crossing weft strand, which 
is the problem in shedding. Inserting the weft 
requires an entirely different kind of handling from 
that of warp stretching ; it demands the greatest 
inventive genius as well as mechanical nicety, since 
the weft not only crosses the warp, but interlaces 
with it while doing so. 

25 As we have said, the simplest weaving, where 
each individual warp strand must be lifted and 



94 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

lowered as the weft passes under and over, was 
abandoned by many early weavers because it re- 
quired a separate movement for each 
Shedding warp strand. If two hundred warp 
strands are to be woven together it re- 
quires two hundred movements to carry the weft 

25a across once, and one thousand movements to cross 
five times. Nevertheless, slow and fatiguing as is this 
first crude manner of laboriously lifting individual 
warp strands, it is still practiced by the American 
Indian of the Northwest. With supreme patience 
these Indian weavers, without a shedding device, 
fabricate blankets of most complicated design and 
beautiful texture. 

26 Many primitive peoples realized that for greater 

speed and ease in wefting a device was needed for 

simultaneously separating the two series 
Shed-rod ^ , J t^ fc> 

of alternate warp strands to form an 
opening, or shed, through which the weft might 
pass with one movement. But such an opening 
was impossible with warp arranged as on the One- 
beam loom. Stretched strands or those approach- 
ing it were necessary, and these came with the 
26a Weighted warp loom. The first step toward auto- 
matic warp shedding was probably the introduction 
of a flat sword-like rod under and over alternate 
strands, and then leaving it in place while the flexi- 
ble weft was passed through the shed thus made. 
The rod was then removed and again entered under 
and over the opposite set of alternate strands, so 



CLOTH MAKING 95 

preparing a shed for a second line of weft. Without 
doubt, then came the thought of a permanent shed- 
rod for the first shed, although only a temporary one 
was possible for the second shed. Still even this 
arrangement saved half the work. Slow as is 
shedding by means of the shed-rod it persists among 
a few peoples of lower culture, some of whom insert 
a large number of slender rods to mark their 
elaborate pattern. Early weavers noted that in 
shedding the warp strands cross between the two 
sheds and that the crossing was necessary. Hence 
they began marking the warp crossing, or lease as 
it is termed, by two lease-rods, whose forerunners 
in all probability were the shed-rods above described. 
26b The difficult thing at this stage in shedding 
development was to find a device for raising the 
second series of warp strands, since only 

. ^, ' ^ Shed-rod 

the first series was satisfactorily managed and Rod- 
by the permanent shed-rod. Finally it ® ® 
was discovered that a flexible rod-cord-heddle, for 
convenience termed the rod-heddle, would success- 
fully open the second shed, and when placed in 
front of the shed-rod would not interfere with the 
opening of the first shed, because of the looseness 
of its cord. This was a great advance over the 
exclusive use of the shed-rod, as it opened both 
sheds with the borrowed shed-rod and the newly 
devised rod-heddle. The invention of this method 
belongs to peoples of lower culture and was their 
dominant method of shedding. Although slow, it 



96 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

was rapid enough for them, and in fact it was as 
far as aboriginal peoples developed the shedding 
process. Since it was a form incapable of develop- 
ing beyond hand movement, the rod-heddle never 
carried over into modern weaving. Still the ancient 
Egyptians more than a thousand years before Christ 
employed this simple shedding device for manu- 
facturing their famous linens and quite likely the 
Lake-dwellers of the Stone Age used a similar 
device. 
26c The One-shaft loom introduces another style of 
heddle, a free shaft worked by hand, and employed 

almost exclusively for making belts and 
hed^die narrow fabrics. It combines in the one 

implement the work of the shed-rod and 
rod-heddle. In weaving a web of two hundred 
warps the single shaft-heddle separates the one 
hundred warp strands that the weft is to pass under 
from the one hundred that it is to pass over, so that 
the line of weft can cross the loom with one move- 
ment; then it again divides the warp strands so 
that the second line of weft can pass over and under 
the opposite strands. For this purpose the heddle 
is constructed of a single board cut by narrow 
parallel slits with intervening slats, each pierced 
at its center by an eyelet or hole. Likewise it 
may be made of a row of slender splints bound at 
their ends to two long horizontal bars and each 
splint pierced by a center hole as were the previously 
mentioned slats. These slits and eyelets furnish the 



CLOTH MAKING 97 

working parts of the heddle, since one series of 
alternate warp strands is entered into the row of 
eyelets and the second series into the row of slits, 
which allow this last series free movement up and 
down the vertical openings. When the shaft is 
raised, the first series of strands are held by the 
eyelets, while the freely moving second series pass 
to the lower ends of the slits, making a shed below 
the eyelet-held series. When the shaft is lowered, 
the freely moving series slide to the upper ends of 
the slits, making a shed above the eyelet-held series. 
Thus by this means the weft may pass quickly 
back and forth through first one shed and then 
the other. 
26d The one shaft-heddle, although efficient for 
shedding the warp of narrow fabrics, was not suit- 
able for wider ones because of greater ^^ ^ _, 

° Shed-rod 

difficulty from tangled strands. Espe- and Shaft- 
cially troublesome is the warp when 
extending beyond the loom, and not wound on the 
revolving beam. Again the use of excessively 
fine threads for silks and muslins requires a more 
perfect shedding device. A separate contrivance 
for each shed and the two working independently 
was found necessary ; a method which has continued 
in all later shedding. The One-shaft treadle loom 
employs a separate device for each shed and also two 
kinds of devices. It reverts in part to the old method 
with shed-rod and rod-heddle, but adopts instead 
of the rod-heddle a more efficient shaft-heddle, 



98 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

giving a new combination of shed-rod and shaft- 
heddle. This is an old and almost extinct type 
found in a very limited area of China, Korea and 
Japan. Its most important innovation is the , 
simplest form of foot power for working the shedding 
device. Here only one shed is opened by this 
means. A treadle ring for the toe, a treadle board, 
or a swinging slat lifts and lowers the shaft-heddle, 
while the shed-rod arranges the other shed. Ceylon 
uses a very simple loom of this type for making 
Dunbara mats, although here the shaft-heddle is 
worked by hand. There is no adjustment of the 
two beams, so the weaver is obliged to squat upon 
the woven portion. One shed is opened by the 
shed-rod and the second by a rude heddle attached 
by a cord to a tripod that can be shifted along from 
time to time as the weaving progresses. The hemp 
strips of weft are entered with a long lath which has 
an eye at one end, and are left with loose ends at 
either side. Another more primitive loom from 
the Bedouin desert, Hke the last is furnished with 
side supports upon which to rest the two ends 
of a rod which supports either the shaft-heddle or 
the rod-heddle, quite probably the last. (See 
Roth 0) p. 13.) 
26e To ancient weavers, and especially to those of the 
East, must be given the credit of bringing to comple- 
Two Shaft- tion the shedding process, by developing, 
heddies jf ^ot by inventing, the shaft-heddle. 
The two factors responsible for perfecting shedding 



CLOTH MAKING 99 

are no doubt the desire for greater speed to increase 
output and for a more elaborate pattern which 
required very fine yarn. Ancient and medieval 
history are rich in allusions to the wonderful 
fabrics of silk, satin and velvet which came from 
Asiatic looms at this time. Elaborate weaving 
was possible only with heddle-shafts, frequently 
termed shedding-harness, or with the closely related 
heddle-cords of the Draw loom and the Jacquard. 
The Two-shaft treadle loom appears to have 
evolved in India and from there spread in all 
directions. It is found as far as West Africa, 
although there it is so crude as to suggest that it 
may be of native origin. Each heddle-shaft is 
constructed of two wooden laths joined by threads, 
which are passed from one to the other and looped 
at the center to form an eyelet through which the 
warp threads are run. The even threads pass 
through one heddle and the uneven threads through 
the other. These heddles are raised successively for 
shedding. When the first is raised it carries up 
alternate warp threads, thus opening one shed, and 
when the second is raised the second series of 
alternate threads are lifted, and the other shed 
opened. The employment of two shaft-heddles 
in place of the shed-rod and one shaft-heddle, 
furnishes a similar device for each shed. It is 
the most direct method of shedding, for with equal 
speed and certainty both sheds are opened, with the 
additional advantage that both are operated by 



lOO YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

foot power. In the Perfected hand loom this method 
of shedding persisted throughout Europe during 
medieval and modern times until the Industrial 
Revolution. Even now it can be found in out-of- 
the-way places, used by the peasants. 

26f Shedding for elaborate pattern making was first 
achieved on the Draw loom by a double harness 
Pattern which provided two kinds of shedding 
Shedding devices, a front harness for the shaft- 
heddles worked by treadles; and a back harness of 
free heddle loops, cords, or wires termed leashes, 
worked by a draw-boy. The warp strands were 
first threaded through the shaft-heddles, the eyes 
of which were made long, thus permitting freedom 
for the back harness to simultaneously or alter- 
nately affect the shed with the front harness. Then 
the same warp strands were passed on through the 
eyes of the free leashes, that these by their action 
might produce the pattern detail, as the front 
harness was producing the pattern in large. Later 

26g the Draw loom was superseded by the Jacquard 
loom., which simplified pattern making by means 
of a mechanism placed on top of the loom, worked 
by pattern cards, needles and hooks. 

Wefting — Picking 

27 Although picking is a wefting process not so 
difhcult to master as shedding, it has had its prob- 
lems. Weft was first inserted in short lengths that 
passed but once, or once and return, across the 



CLOTH MAKING lOl 

warp in an under and over movement, or one that 
twined, or wrapped about the strands. Examples 
of these three methods of weftinsr short 

No Shuttle 

strands are shown in cleverly man- 
27a aged ways on the One-beam loom. With the use 
of softer materials, especially spun yarns, some 
people wove with a longer weft wound into a 
small ball. The need of lengthening the weft 
strand presented one of the earliest picking prob- 
lems, since the short strands woven once across, 
or once and back, left a loose edge which easily 
unraveled. A continuous weft that could be 
carried across again and again provided two strong 
closed edges, since these journeyings of the weft 
to and fro formed a " self edge " or selvage as it is 
termed. The Navajo weavers practice the method 
of making the weft into a small roll which they 
insert through the warp strands with their fingers. 
27b The ancient Egyptians of the Middle Kingdom 
on the only cloth loom we know, employed short 
weft lengths that extended across the Needle- 
warp but once and return, and they prob- Shuttle 
ably inserted these strands by hand. Egyptians 
of the New Kingdom, however, had advanced 
sufhciently in the weaving art to employ a simple 
weft device, a long stick which measured the 
width of the loom and had a hook at one end. This 
device pulls the weft through the warp strands and 
also beats up the weft, thus serving the double 
function of shuttle and batten. There seems great 



I02 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

likelihood that this crude picking device evolved 
from the sword-shaped wooden batten, but there is 
no evidence. It is the simplest needle-shuttle, 
whose more perfect forms show a pierced eye, or a 
well-shaped slot, and in different areas vary from a 
long slender needle to a short broad one. 

27c The simplest form of picking device which 
effectually meets the problem of a lengthened weft 
stick- is the stick-shuttle. This truthfully 

shuttle merits the name of shuttle, or weft 
carrier, for it is loaded with many yards of weft 
wound endwise, crosswise, or diagonally. In fur- 
nishing a continuous weft the stick-shuttle is a 
long step in advance of the needle-shuttle. The 
latter can carry but a limited length and because 
free and extended it is liable to tangle. The stick- 
shuttle with its cargo of weft can traverse again 
and again through the sheds and form a strong 
selvage. In fact, this shuttle made its appearance 
with warp shedding, since it is not adaptable to 
wefting without a shed in which to pass. It varies 
in carrying capacity in different localities, and 
takes on numerous shapes which are usually more 
slender and shorter than the needle-shuttle. 

27d After a continuous weft thread had been attained, 
a second difficulty needed solving, that of a more 
Bobbin- smoothly moving weft carrier as it 
shuttle traversed the warp shed. The stick- 

shuttle wriggled more or less because of its awk- 
ward shape and from the unwinding weft, likewise 



CLOTH MAKING 103 

it caught in the warp strands and the load of yarn 
impeded its progress. Finally some one devised a 
sheath, or case, in which" to inclose a slender re- 
volving quill wound with weft. The case took the 
shape of a boat and within revolved the bobbin 
of weft. The device probably developed from the 
stick-shuttle with a transverse winding, since the 
ancient Greek shuttle of Penelope needs only a 
case to make it a bobbin-shuttle. The Malay 
Islanders use a transitional type. Their shuttle 
consists of a slender rod, wound spool manner 
with weft, and covered with a removable slender 
case. 
27e The weaver threw the bobbin-shuttle from one 
hand to the other, a process very slow and employing 
both hands. However, this method 

, . ^ , . Fly-shuttle 

contmued m use for a very long time. 
The mechanical device finally invented was so 
planned that by pulling a string the shuttle shot 
from side to side. For the shuttle an artificial 
path was constructed, which consisted of a smooth 
shelf on the base of the reed batten with boxes 
at both ends to receive the shuttle as it moved 
to and fro. Here the chief difficulty was driving 
the shuttle with one stroke through the entire 
breadth of the warp. But when this difficulty 
was surmounted, the results were accelerated 
motion and the freeing of one hand for battening. 
Another gain was the possibility of weaving wider 
cloth without an assistant weaver. 



I04 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

27f Following the fly-shuttle came the drop-box 
arrangement for permitting the use of a number of 

shuttles with different kinds of weft. 

The end boxes of the shuttle-race were 
enlarged to contain two or more compartments, 
with a device which raised and lowered them so as 
to bring the desired compartment with its shuttle 
of weft on a level with the shuttle-race. 

Wefting — Battening 

28 ■ While battening is the last process in weaving 

and might seem of minor import, its significance is 

by no means slight. It has a task of its 

No batten . , . , i i . i 

own to perform upon which good cloth 
depends. This process packs close together the 
lines of weft, making a firm, compact web, or an 
evenly wefted more open texture. Except in 
earliest, or finger battening, it arranges the weft 
lines straight and parallel, while in the more per- 
fected forms it also distributes the warp strands 
in parallel and equidistant order. Its importance 
is understood when one remembers that many of 
the simplest looms, as the Egyptian mat loom, 
include only the batten in addition to the beams; 
this is the extent of the weaving apparatus. 
28a The first battening was done with the fingers, 
which press home each line of weft, although these 
lines frequently are uneven. The short bodkin, 
or slender pointed stick, was an early tool for 
packing fine weft, especially in pattern making. 



CLOTH MAKING 105 

It is thrust between the warp strands, which 
drives home in a better way than do the fingers. 

28b The almost universal batten or beater-in of 
peoples of lower culture the world over is the long 
thin sword-shaped stick batten. It is stick 
a very useful tool with a double function, Batten 
for it assists in two weaving processes, the shedding 
and the battening. After each warp shed is opened 
the stick batten is entered flatwise, and then turned 
edgewise to widen the shed for the passage of the 
weft strand ; when the shedding and picking for this 
line of weft is finished, the sword batten undertakes 
its second and chief work of beating up, by first 
being turned flatwise and then struck against the 
weft. With this tool, battening is a very slow pro- 
cess, since it is a free tool which must be entered anew 
with each line of weft, although as previously stated 
this means nothing to aborigines with whom time 

28c counts for little. The second task of another 
double-function tool, the needle-shuttle, is beat- 
ing up the weft after it has been entered 
through the shed, but this cumbersome tool 
probably does not have a wide distribution. 
The sword-shaped batten is employed exclusively 
with hand shedding and rod-heddle shedding; it 
never carried over into shaft-heddle shedding or 
later industry. Frequently accompanying this 
batten in pattern weaving is the weaving comb, 
which assists in driving close short stretches of 
weft. 



Io6 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

286. Progress in weaving invention brought the reed 
batten, a very great advance over the sword-shaped 
Reed stick uscd for this purpose. It consists 

Batten ^f ^i series of short vertical reed strips, or 

wires set the width of the warp and fastened in a 
frame. Between these reeds pass the warp threads, 
which are held by this means in a parallel series 
evenly dispersed and in such a manner that the 
web is kept of uniform width. For time saving, 
the value of a batten always in place in the warp 
is easily appreciated. The batten does not then 
have to be entered anew with each line of weft. 
This also distributes each warp thread in its 
appointed position, besides lessening the strain on 
the threads. The earliest reed battens hang loose 

28e ' on the warp threads ; they are lightly attached by 
cords as in the ancient One-shaft heddle loom of 

28f China. All later ones on hand looms are firmly sus- 

28g pended from the top of the loom frame ; and those on 
power looms swing from below. Some think the 

28h crude weaving comb of aborigines suggested the reed 
batten, others believe that it followed the shaft- 
heddle when the textile inventor realized the value of 
evenly dispersed warp threads. Quite as possibly the 
reed warp spacer, such as was employed by the Ainu 
behind their shedding devices, may have preceded the 
reed batten. 

Loom Frame 

29 The office of the frame differs from that of the 
devices which carry on the weaving. Its duty is 



CLOTH MAKING 107 

to support the working parts, that they may per- 

29a form their function. Two types of looms, the Frame- 
^ less two-bar loom and the One-shaft Frame 

loom, are frameless, depending upon out- beginnings 
side means for support. A belt passing about the 
waist of the weaver secures the cloth end of the 
strands, and a distant post, or the feet of the weaver, 

29b secure the warp end. The One-beam loom, the Two- 
bar loom and the simplest varieties of the Two-beam 
loom show only the beginnings of the loom frame in 
pegs, posts and hooks which serve as stays or sup- 
ports. Two posts answer the purpose for the One- 
beam loom and the Two-bar loom, four pegs for 
the simplest horizontal variety of the Two-beam 
loom, and two cords and two hooks in the crudest 
vertical variety of the same type. 

29c The developing frame of the Weighted warp loom 
adds a couple of cross-pieces to stay its vertical 
uprights, a practice sometimes resorted 
to in the One-beam loom for heavy webs. Rectangular 
as they might pull the uprights out of ^^™®^ 
place. As we have stated before, the Two-beam 
loom may have no frame, or it may have stay- 
ings of very simple pegs, hooks or cords. But 
some of its vertical forms have a true frame, com- 
posed usually of four separate parts, two post and 
two cross-pieces, as on Navajo and a number of 
African looms. But these four parts at times are 
solidly united into a rectangular frame, as in the 

29d Egyptian loom of the New ICingdom. Of necessity 



Io8 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

the frame takes a rectangular form from the shape 
of the stretched warp strands. Notably the loom 
frames on the first, second, third and fifth types do 
not function perfectly, since here the frame does not 
support all the working parts. In these types it 
serves only to stay the warp by holding the beams. 
It is interesting to remember that with a very few 
exceptions, this is true of all vertical looms. This 
position does not lend itself to a perfect functioning 
, frame. 

29e It was the horizontal frame, therefore, which 
claimed the attention of later inventors as the one 
Horizontal best fitted to the working parts of the 
Frame loom. When it is given this position 

29f it begins to take on fresh duties. On the One-shaft 
treadle loom it holds the shedding and battening 
devices in addition to the warp beam, although it 
excludes the cloth beam to be attached to the 

29g weaver's belt. On the Two-shaft treadle loom the 
frame relinquishes control over the beams and de- 
votes itself to sustaining the weft devices for shed- 

29h ding and battening. In the earliest forms of the 
Perfected hand loom the frame again supports the 
beams as well as the devices for shedding and 
battening, only omitting that for picking. But 
with the invention of the fly-shuttle this device 
was included, thus uniting within the loom frame 
all warp and wefting devices. As speed in 
weaving increased and the frame developed to in- 
clude all working parts, its structure was greatly 



CLOTH MAKING lOg 

strengthened and refined. For all parts required 
exact adjustment and good support to withstand 
the heavy vibrations of the various weaving pro- 
cesses, especially when the loom was driven by power. 
291 The last three types of weaving show a slight 
variation in the shape of base from the Perfected 
hand loom ; and the Draw loom and the Jacquard 
have greatly extended shedding devices which 
mount high above the rectangular base. 

Warping 

30 An important process in weaving is warping, or 
arranging the warp threads for the loom. For this 
they are laid parallel to each other in simplest 
regular order and must be equal in Warpmg 
length, as well as crossed twice to form two leases. 
Difficulty is experienced by the warper in keeping 
each thread separate with an equal tension through- 
out, especially for fine webs which may reach two 
thousand yards in length and have as many as 

30a ninety threads to the inch. The simplest method 
of warping is practiced by northwestern tribes in 
North America. It consists only of measuring the 
yarn in proper warp lengths. It is not necessary 
on this loom to secure equal tension, as the warp 
strands hang loose, held only by their own weight. 
Neither is it necessary to prepare the two leases, as 
there is no shedding device to require leases. The 
warping device here is a simple measuring stick some 
five feet long with a few notches cut along the edge 



no YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

near one or both ends. Around this stick the yarn is 
wound from end to end, or from end to a notch near 
the opposite end of the stick. When enough yarn 
has been measured ofT on the stick, it is cut and the 
warp strands are ready to be suspended from the 
one beam of the One-beam loom. 

30b The first instance we know of effective warping, 
in the modern sense, is stake warping. A few 
stake stakes are driven into the ground at a 

Warping given distance apart. The weaver with 
a ball or a bobbin of yarn in one hand, or one in each 
hand, then passes from one stake to another, winding 
the thread in parallel order from the ball or bobbin 
on to the stakes. Here the warp threads are laid 
with as equal tension as possible and the leases are 
carefully preserved. The Navajo use but two stakes 
in warping for their short webs but the weavers of 
India need more stakes for their longer webs. In- 
deed for these the stakes are often so set as to oblige 
the warper to travel almost round his house and back. 

30c A very similar method to the last is warping 
on pegs driven into the wall, or into a warp- 
Peg ing board. Again, the pegs are inserted 
Warping [^^q warping bars, a standing frame 
which leans against the wall. Later the warping 
device freed itself from wall support entirely in the 
bartrees, which with a support or standard may stand 
in any open space. Here the position of the peg, 
the important part, is horizontal instead of vertical, 
as were the warping stakes. Over the horizontal 



CLOTH MAKING III 

pegs the yarn is more easily warped and with less 
exercise. At first when warping, a single bobbin 
or ball was held in one hand, or one in each hand; 
but later a number of bobbins were placed in a 
bobbin carrier, a small frame held in the hand. 
This device, with its few bobbins, increased the speed 
in warping so much that more bobbins were added 
to a larger and stationary frame or creel. From it 
a large number of threads were drawn and laid on 
the bartrees. 

30d But it was not until after the expenditure of 
much effort through the 17th, i8th and 19th 
centuries that finally, by the invention warping 
of the warping mill, warping for fine ^^^^ 
materials like silk was made easy. The mill is a 
revolving cylindrical form of skeleton framework 
which takes the place of the warping bars. With it 
are a very much enlarged bobbin frame, or creel, 
and a heck through which the threads pass on 
their way to the mill. The heck spreads the warp 
threads evenly upon the reel and also holds a device 
for crossing the threads to form the lease. A 
newer mill revolves about a horizontal axis and it 
is claimed lays the warp strands with more uni- 
form tension than the vertical mills. The two are 

30e turned by hand, although a later invention is a 
warping machine run by power and one which 
warps directly upon the beam. Recent discoveries 
record that ancient Egyptians of the New Kingdom 
had a warping creel and reel. 



112 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



Developing Agencies 



It is not sufficient that each weaving process be 
perfect in itself ; in addition to this it must be 
• Perfecting adjusted to the perfected mechanism of 
Mechanism ^^q other processes. For all parts are 
obhged to work together, pulleys, gearings, reverse 
gearings, check stops, etc., all mounted, fitted and 
balanced to a nicety, so as to move in perfect 
harmony. Weaving principles of necessity remain 
the same, the new and improved ideas are applied 
to the same weaving principles. The sequence of 
motions also remains the same for both the primary 
and secondary parts. To control these, especially 
at a high speed, the loom parts required strengthen- 
ing and yet needed to be delicately regulated. Each 
change of movements, heddle shedding, shuttle 
picking, batten beating up, beams " letting-off " 
and " taking-up " meant adjustment and read- 
justment to keep all working in unison. This was 
more easy with hand power, but more difficult to 
govern with mechanical power. 
31 As the weaving industry expanded, it changed 
from a manual process to a mechanical one. The 
races of the East achieved the most 

Power 

perfect manual weaving and the peoples 

of Europe, transforming the crude loom implement 

into a machine, achieved the most complete 

31a mechanical weaving. All types of weaving were 

done entirely by hand power up to the oriental type 



CLOTH MAKING 1 13 

of the One-shaft treadle loom. From that type 
through the Two-shaft treadle loom, the Perfected 
hand loom, the Draw loom and the Jacquard, the 
looms were so harnessed and geared that the shed- 
ding process could be worked by foot power. But 
hand power still controlled the other processes. 

31b The Draw loom with its double shedding required 
both foot power and hand power to manage this 
process, foot power from the weaver for the front 
harness and hand power from the drawboy for 

31c the back harness. With the Power loom all pro- 
cesses were so unified as to be driven by one 
power ; that power was steam. 



WEAVING TYPES 



ONE-BEAM LOOM 



Distinctive Characteristics 

The most rudimentary weaving implement : a loom of 
one beam supported by two posts. 

Warp device : a simple beam from which the warp is 
suspended. 

Weft devices : none, the shedding, picking and batten- 
ing done with fingers. 

Weaving proceeds from above downward. 

Outline 

Example : American Indians of northwest coast. 
Implement — One-beam loom (15-18). 

1. frame, two vertical supporting posts (29, 29b, d). 

2. one-beam, non-revolving (19, 19a, 20, 20a). 

3. no shedding device (24, 25, 25a). 

4. no picking device (27, 27a). 

5. no battening device (28, 28a). 
Warping device — measuring stick (30, 30a). 

Power ^ Hand (31, 31a). 
Process — Loom mounting. 

114 




Fig. 30. — One-beam Loom, North America 

The warp strands of bark strips are hung loosely over a beam supported by two 
posts. The weft is run in over and under the warp strands without a 
shedding device. 




Fig. 31. — Wool Weaving on One-beam Loom 

This Chilkat blanket in process of making is not in plain over and under weave 
but of twined weaving. The warp strands hang loosely without stretching 
as in Fig. 30, and no shedding, picking or battening devices are used. 



WEAVING TYPES 



"5 



Warping — warp wound on measuring stick and cut 

from stick in strands. 
Beaming. 

a. warp strands suspended over 

beam. 

b. warp strands suspended over 

headline attached to beam. 
Heddling, none. 
Wefting. 
Shedding, Picking, Battening — done 

with fingers. 

a. one weft strand interlacing. 

b. one weft strand wrapping. 

c. two or more weft strands twining. 

Economic Gain 

Here the usefulness of the device must 

be summarized without comparison. 

For uniformity the items are grouped 

as in the succeeding types. 
In production : 

The one beam helps stay the warp 

strands at one end. 
It serves both as warp beam and cloth 

beam. 
In product : 

More even technic than if without 

loom. 
A great variety of weft arrangements 

possible from warp stayed atone end . 



Fig. 32. — Meas- 
uring Staff 

Over this stick from 
end to end the 
warp yarn is 
wrapped to ob- 
tain the required 
length of warp 
strands. 



ii6 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 




fAW.q- 



Fig. 33. — Method of Attaching Warp to Beam 

The loom beam is flat with pierced holes, through which runs a cord to attach 
the headline, over which are suspended the soft warp strands. Below the 
headline is a row of plain twining (A), of two strands which twine about 
the warp. Farther down is a border of three-ply twine (B), adjoining 
which is a square of twilled twine (C), the body weave of the Chilkat 
blanket. 




[f^ya 



Fig. 34. — Twilled Twining and One Method of Joining Strands 
IN Pattern Making 



WEAVING TYPES 117 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

3 Bancroft, H. H. "Native races," I, 190, 191. 
2 Boas, F. "Indians of British Columbia," Rept. British Asso. 
Science, 1890. 

1 Emmons, G. "The Chilkat blanket," American Museum Mem., 

III. 

- Ephraim, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik ausserhalb Eu- 

ropas." (Illustration.) Mus. fur Volkerkunde zu Leipzig, 
Band I, Heft I. 

2 Foreman, S. E. "Stories of useful inventions." 

- General guide to American Museum Natural History. (Il- 

lustration.) 
I Guide to anthropological collections, Provincial Mus., Victoria, 
B. C., 13, 23, 37. 

3 Hamilton, A. "Maori art," New Zealand Institute, 271-288, 

298. 
I Handbook of American Indians, "Weaving." Bureau Am. 
Ethnology Bull. 30, 11. 

- Handbook to ethnographical collections, British Museum. 

(Illustration.) 

1 Hoffman, W. J. "The Menomonee Indians," 14 Rept. Bureau 

Am. Ethnology, 259. 

2 Holmes, W. H. Q) " Prehistoric textile fabrics in United States." 

3 Report Bureau American Ethnology. 
I Holmes, W. H. (^) "Prehistoric textile fabrics in eastern United 

States." 13 Report Bureau American Ethnology. 
I Kissell, M. L. Q) "Aboriginal weaving in America," Rept. 

Cotton Manufactures Asso., 1910. 

- Kissell, M. L. (^) "A new type of spinning." Am. Anthro- 

pologist, XVIII, 2. (Illustration.) 

I Kissell, M. L. (^) " Fabrics from primitive looms." (In prep- 
aration.) 

I Mason, O. T. (0 "Woman's share in primitive culture," 63. 

4 Nelson, E. W. "The Eskimo," 18 Rept. Bureau Am. Eth- 

nology, Pt. I. 



Il8 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

4 Swan, J. G. "Indians of Cape Flattery," Smithsonian Contri- 
butions to Knowledge, XVI. 

2 Willoughby, C. C. "New type of ceremonial blanket," Am. 
Anthropologist, XII, i. 

- Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." (Illustration.) 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

Emmons, PI. 35. Chilkat blanket makers. 

p. 338. Batten and upper blanket border. 
339. Weaving technic. 
344. Pattern-boards for blankets. 
Ephraim, fig. 15. Tlinget weaver. 
Foreman, p. 112. The primitive loom. 
General guide to American Museum. 

p. 24. Mural painting. Weaving a Chilkat blanket. 
Guide to anthropological collections, Provincial Museum. 

p. 21. Chilkat blanket. 
Hamilton, p. 271. Making a flax mat (robe). 
Handbook ethnographical collections, British Museum. 

Frontispiece — Robe of woven bark and wool. 
Hoffman, PL 20. Mat making. 
Holmes (^), PL 39. Pottery with impressions of textile fabrics. 

figs. 72, 73, 77-90. Impressions of fabrics on ancient 
pottery. 
Holmes (^), PL 3. Mantle, or shirt of light-colored stuff. 

4. Fringed shirt. 

5. Frayed bag. 

6. Charred cloth from mounds in Ohio. 

7. Charred fabric from mounds. 
9. Fabric marked pottery. 

figs. 5, 6, 8, 10, 16, 18, 19. Ancient fabrics and im- 
pressions of fabrics on ancient pottery. 
Kissell (0, fig. I. Kwakiutl squaw. 

2. Mat with checked design. 

3. Primitive loom with plaited mat. 



WEAVING TYPES 



119 





4- 


Another type of loom. 




5- 


Unfinished Chilkat blanket. 




6. 


Old Chilkat blanket. 




7- 


Squaw weaving Chilkat blanket. 


KisseU (2) 


, PL 1.6. 


Salish Indians weaving and spinnning 


Willoughby, pp. i 


, 5. Blanket. 




2 


-5. Technic. 


Woolman and McGowan. 


p. 48. 


Chilkat blanket. 



II 



WEIGHTED WARP LOOM 



Distinctive Characteristics 

Weaving implement : one beam 
loom with weighted warp 
strands. 

Warp devices : one beam and 
warp weights. 

Weft devices : shed-sticks, or a 
shed-stick and one or more 
rod heddles for shedding ; 
stick shuttle for picking; at 
times a sword-like stick for 
battening. 

Weaving proceeds from above 
downward. 

Outline 

Examples : Ancient Greek ; Ice- 
landic ; Ancient Lake-dweller 
weaving. 




Fig. 35. — An Alpine 
Weaver, About iooo b. c. 
Scratched on an old tomb urn 
from the eastern Alps is this 
loom with no frame pictured 
to show its character, but it 
must have been similar to 
that of the early Greek loom. 
Weights stretch the warp, 
and a shed-rod and rod-hed- 
dle part the warp strands. 



I20 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 




Reproduced by permission from Hooper's " Handloom Weaving." 
Macmillan, U. S. A. and John Hogg, London. 

Fig. 36. — Greek Weaver, 500 B.C., British Museum Vase 

" The legend is of Circe at the moment when the Sorceress is in the act of offering 
the noxious potion to Ulysses." Hooper. 



Implement 

I 



Weighted warp loom. 



frame — two vertical posts and crossbar (29, 29c, d). 
warp device (19, 19b, 20, 
20b). 

(i) one-beam supported on 
upper ends of frame 
posts. 
a. non-revolving. 
h. revolving. 
(2) warp weights, 
shedding device (24, 25 
26a, b). 
a. two rods. 

h. shed-rod and rod-heddle. 
c. shed-rod and three rod 
heddles moved 
lever over cross-bar. 
stick-shuttle (27, 27c). 
batten — sword or paddle-shaped stick (28, 28b. c). 




Fig. 37. — Circe Loom on 
Greek Vase in Ashmo- 
LEAN Museum. > 

1 Weighted warp strands, revolv- 
'-'y ing beam, stick-shuttle and 
probably shed-rod and rod- 
heddle are all present. 



Power — Hand (31, 31a). 



WEAVING TYPES 



121 



Process — Loom mounting. 

Warping, over stakes (30, 30b). 
Beaming, warp lengths suspended from beam. 
Heddling. 

1. shed-rod entered 

through warps. 

2. heddle-rod laid 

across warp and 

laced by cord to 

back series of 

alternate warp 

strands. 
Wefting. 

Picking, Shedding, Bat- 
tening. 

a. by hand. 

b. as in Frameless 

two-bar loom. 




Fig. 38. — A Bit of Penelope's 
Loom, 500 b.c, from an Etruscan 
Vase, Chiusi Museum 

A portion of the cloth already woven 
has been wound on the beam ; below 
it is a decorative border with the 
stick-shuttle ready to weave farther. 



Economic Gain 

In production : 

Warp weights hold warp more taut. 
Introduction of shedding, picking, and battening de- 
vices. 
In product : 

Web coarse but finer than previous type. 
Lines of weft more nearly horizontal from shedding 
and battening devices. 



122 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 




^■y>t.^t\- ■'»■•< 



Fig. 39. — Scandinavian Weighted Warp Loom. 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 



I Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving." 

5 Burton, R. T. "Ultima Thula ; or a summer in Iceland," 198. 

- Draper, G. O. "Labor saving looms." (Illustration.) 

- Ephriam, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik ausserhalb Eu- 

ropas." (Illustration.) Museum fiir Volkerkunde zu Leip- 
zig, Band I, Heft I. 

Ferrer, R. "ReaUexikon," Webstuhl, Webstuhlgewicht, Gewebe. 
(Illustration.) 

-Heiden, M. "HandworterbuchderTextilkunde." (Illustration.) 



WEAVING TYPES 



123 




Fig. 40. — Weighted Warp Loom of Iceland. 



124 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

I Hooper, L-O) "Hand-loom weaving," 20-23, 81-86. 

I Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle: past, present and 

future." (^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX, 953. (^) Rept. 

Smithsonian Institution, 1914. 
I Hooper, L.(5) "Technique of Greek and Roman weaving." 

Burlington Magazine, 191 1, 276. 

1 KeUer, F. " The lake dwellers of Switzerland," 513. 

3 Montelius, O. " Civilization of Sweden in heathen times." 

4 Miintz, E.(^) "Short history of tapestry." 

- Miintz, E.(^) "Tapisseries." (Illustration.) 

- Miintz, E.(^) "La tapisserie." (Illustration.) 

2 Pinkerton, J. "Voyages and travels," I, 4. 

- Ronchaud, L. de. "Tapisserie." (Illustration.) 

I Roth, H. L. Q) "Ancient Egyptian and Greek looms." 
Bankfield Museum Notes, Second series, No. 2. 

I Roth, H. L. (-) "Studies in primitive looms." (Shedding.) 
Bankfield Museum Notes, Second series. No. 8. 

I Smith, W. Dictionary Greek and Roman Antiquities, II. 
"Tela." 

I Smith, Wayte and Marindin. Diet. Greek and Roman Antiq- 
uities, II. "Tela." 

I Thomson, W. G. "History of tapestry." 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Barlow, p. 58. Loom of Iceland. 
Draper, p. 24. Scandinavian loom. 
•Ephraim, fig. 13. Loom of the Swiss Lake dwellers. 
18. Loom of Faroe and Iceland. 
22. Reconstructed loom of the Swiss Lake dwellers. 
Forrer, PI. 278, fig. i. Loom on Hallstatt vase. 
2. Scandinavian loom. 
4, s, 9. Loom weights. 

13. Embroidery frame. 

14. Greek vase with Penelope at loom. 



WEAVING TYPES 1 25 

Heiden, p. 236. Greek loom. 
Hooper, (}) p. 23. Loom of Penelope. 

24. Loom of Circe. 
Hooper, (^) (*) fig. 7. Loom on Boeotian vase, 500 B.C. 

8. Penelope's loom, 500 b.c. 
Hooper, (^) fig. 6. Loom of Penelope, Chiusi Museum. 
8. Loom of Circe, Ashmolean Museum. 
Keller, figs. 37-40. Conjectured loom. 
- Magazines. See magazine illustration list. 
Montelius, p. 160. Loom from Faroe Islands. 
Miintz, 0) p. 17. Penelope's loom. 
Miintz, (^) 31. Le Metier de Penelope. 
Miintz, (^) 3. Le Metier de Penelope. 
Ronchaud, p. 55. Greek loom. 

Roth Q), p. 17. Greek loom on vase in Ashmolean Museum. 
18. Loom weights of hardened mud and clay. 

31. Greek vases showing tapestry loom (may be 
embroidery frames). 

32. Penelope at her loom. 
32. Greek weaver at loom. 

34. Scandinavian loom. 

35. Icelandic loom. 

37. Supposed loom weights found in England. 

39. Model of weighted loom. 

40. Greek shuttle in hand. 

Roth (^), fig. I. Diagram to illustrate the principles of 

weaving. 
Smith, fig. I. Icelandic loom. 

Smith, Wayte andMarindin, fig. i. Icelandic loom. 
Thomson, fig. 6. Loom of Penelope from Greek vase about 400 

B.C. 



126 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



III 



TWO-BAR LOOM 



Distinctive Characteristics 

Weaving implement : a loom with two non-revolving 
bars supported by side posts (a transitional type be- 
tween the suspended 
warp loom and the 
perfectly stretched 
warp loom). 
Warp devices : two 
non-revolving bars 
over which the warp 
is wrapped from one 
to the other. 
Weft devices : fingers 
perform shedding, 
picking, battening 
(except in Africa). 
Weaving proceeds from below upward, or from front 
backward. 




Fig. 41. — ^ Simple Two-bar Loom, 
South America 

The warp is wrapped round and round 
over the two bars. 



Outline 

Examples : Salish Indians ; Calabar, W. African ; 

Tereno Indians ; Holamux Indians ; British Guiana 

apron weaving. 
Implement — Two-bar loom. 

I. frame (29, 29b, d). 

a. two heavy posts which hold ends of bars. 



WEAVING TYPES 



127 



b. two posts support cross-stick from which the 

upper bar hangs, the lower hangs in warp 
strands. 

c. no frame. 




Fig. 42. — Another Crude Two-bar Loom from South America 

Here two tree trunks serve as frame posts, while the warp itself supports the 

lower bar. 

2. bars — non-revolving, held in place by small 

wedges or ropes (19, 19c, 20, 20c, 21). 

a. two straight bars. 

b. two bays, one bent and joined to the other to 

form the letter D. 

3. heddles (24, 25, 26, 26a, b). 

a. none, fingers perform shedding. 

b. shed-stick and one or more rod-heddles (Afr.). 

4. shuttle (27, 27a, b, c). 

a. none, fingers do the picking. 



128 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

b. long stick with hook or eye (Africa), 

c. stick-shuttle (Africa). 
5. batten (28, 28a, b, c). 

a. none, fingers do the beating up. 

b. none, stick-shuttle performs process. 

c. sword-like stick. 
Warping device (30, 30b). 

a. none. 

b. stakes. 
Power — Hand (31). 
Process — Loom mounting. 

Warping (none), warp laid over bars without measur- 
ing off; b. laid on stakes. 
Beaming. 

a. warp wrapped over and over beams. 

b. warp wrapped over beams to back and there 

turned in the opposite direction over a slender 
rod, or cord (this rod or cord is in reality the 
warp beam). 

Wefting. 

Shedding. 

a. none, fingers raise and lower individual warp 

strands. 

b. shed-stick and rod-heddle as in Frameless two- 

bar loom. 
Picking, weft passed through warp strands by fingers 
or by stick-shuttle. 

a. over and under one warp strand (plain weave). 

b. over and under two warp strands (twill 

weave) . 




Fig. 44. — Two-bar Loom, West Africa 

The most advanced loom of this type is in Africa, where patterns are introduced 
in overlay (an exceptional form). 



WEAVING TYPES 129 

Battening. 

a. weft beaten up by fingers. 

h. weft beaten up by stick-shuttle or batten. 
Warp adjusting. 

1. warp loosened by removing wedges or cords. 

2. warp shifted over bars to bring unwoven warp 

strands in front of weaver. 

3. wedges replaced to tighten warp strands. 

Economic Gain 

In production : 

Two bars furnish taut warp. 
Longer web, twice the length between the bars. 
Easy shifting of warp to adjust for convenience during 
wefting. 
In product : 

Coarse web, but warp and weft strands are more 
parallel and more evenly spaced. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

4 Bancroft, H. H. "Native races," I, 215. 

3 Boas, F. "Indians of British Columbia." Rept. British Asso. 
Advancement Science, 1890, 566. 

- Ephraim, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik ausserhalb Eu- 

ropas." (Illustration.) Museum fiir Volkerkunde zu Leip- 
zig, Band I, Heft I. 

3 Gibbs, G. " Tribes of west Washington and northwest Oregon." 
Contributions to North American Ethnology, I, 219. 

I Guide to anthropological collections, Provincial Mus., Victoria, 

B.C., 51. 

- Hooper, L. "The loom and the spindle : past, present and future." 

if) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX., 
(^) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914. 

K 



I30 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

I Kane, P. "Wanderings," 210. 

3 Kissell, M. L.C) "Aboriginal meaning in America." Rept. 
Cotton Manuf. Asso., 1910. 

- Kissell, M. L. (2) "A new type of spinning in North America." 

(Illustration.) American Anthropologist, April- June, 1916. 
I Kissell, M. L. (') "Fabrics from primitive looms." (In 
preparation.) 

1 Mason, O. T. "Woman's share in primitive culture," 60, 64. 

2 Teit, J. "Shuswap Indians." American Museum Mem. IV, 

Pt. VII. 

- Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." (Illustration.) 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

Ephraim, fig. 14. Holamux loom. 

17. Tereno loom. 
Guide to Provincial Museum. 

p. 52. Blanket making, Vancouver Island. 
Hooper (^) (^), fig. 28. A Loom from Calabar. 
Kissell (^), p. II. A third type of loom. 
Kissell (^), Pi. 16. Salish loom. 
Teit, PL 8. Blanket loom. 
Woolman and McGowan. 

p. 5. A primitive loom. 

IV 

FRAMELESS TWO-BAR LOOM 

Distinctive Characteristics 

Weaving implement : a frameless two-bar loom ; during 
weaving one bar is attached to belt passing about 
weaver's body, the second to a distant post. 

Warp devices : two free non-revolving bars (not true 
beams) over which the warp is wrapped in passing 
from one to the other. 




Fig. 45. — Navajo Woman Weaving Belt 

This frameless two-bar loom has for the far bar a tree branch and for the near 
bar a long pole laid across the weaver's lap. 




Fig. 46. — Indian Belt Loom, Mexico 



WEAVING TYPES 131 

Weft devices : a shed-stick, or shed-stick and one or 
more rod-heddles ; a shuttle ; a sword-like batten. 

Weaving proceeds from below upward, or from front 
backward. 

Outline 

Example : Mexican belt weaving. 

Implement — Frameless two-bar loom (29, 29a). 

1. frame. 

none (Navajo Indians to-day quite frequently 
use a temporary frame of two slanting 
posts) . 

2. bars (19, 19d, 20, 21, 21a). 

two light-weight bars (not true beams). 
(i) first attached to some distant object. 
(2) second attached to belt passing about weaver, 

3. heddles (24, 25, 26, 26a, b). 

a. none. 

b. a shed-rod and one or more rod-heddles. 

c. extra short shed-rods. 

4. shuttle (27, 27a, c, d). 

a. none. 

b. stick-shuttle. 

c. bobbin-shuttle. 

5. batten (28, 28a, b). 

a. none. 

b. comb. 

c. sword-shape blade of wood. 
Warping device (30, 30b). 

a series of short stakes driven into ground. 



132 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 




Fig. 47. — Waeping for Navajo Belt 

Warping is done over four stakes. On these the weaver lays her warp as a 

continuous string in such a way as to secure the shed-lease. 



Power — Hand (3l). 
Process — Loom mounting. 




Reproduced bv permission from Harper's " Hand- 
loom Wcavinq," MacmlUan, U. S. A., and 
John Hogg, London. 

Fig. 48. — The Shed-rod and Rod- 



A flat ruler-shaped shed-rod is entered through 
alternate warp strands for opening one shed. 
Below it a rod is laid across the warp and the 
back strands bound to it by a looped cord for 
opening the second shed. 



Warping. 

warp laid about 

slender stakes to 

form a lease. 
Beaming. 

warp placed over 
free bar at dis- 
tant post and 
another at- 
tached to 
weaver's belt, 
carefully pre- 
serving the 
lease. 
Heddling. 

I. shed-rod en- 
tered through 
alternate 
strands for 
first shed. 



WEAVING TYPES 



133 



2, heddle-rod laid across warp, and a cord caught 
under the back warp strands and looped over 
rod for second shed. 




CLOTH 0" 
BREftSTBEAM 



Fig. 49. ROD-HEDDLE AND ShED-ROD AT WORK 

Above — The rod-heddle is raised by the hand opening one shed for the weft. 
Below — The rod-heddle is dropped, opening the second or counter shed for 
another row of weft. 

Wefting. 

Shedding, Picking, Battening. 

1. shed-rod holds open first shed; batten entered 

flatwise and turned edgewise in first shed ; weft 
inserted through first shed ; batten turned 
flatwise, beats up first line of weft. 

2. rod-heddle lifted to open second shed; batten 

entered flatwise and turned edgewise in second 
shed; weft inserted through second shed; 
batten beats up second line of weft. 

3. process is then repeated. 

(When pattern is introduced often short shed-sticks 

mark the pattern.) 
Warp adjusting. 

I. weaver leans slightly forward to lessen warp 
tension. 



134 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

2. warp shifted over bars to bring unwoven portion 

to weaver. 

3. weaver leans back to again tighten tension. 

Economic Gain 

In production : 

The distant warp post allows great warp length, and 

one still twice the distance between bars. 
The presence of shedding, picking and battening 
devices. 
In product : 
A close and very compact web. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

I Edge-Partington. "Album of weapons, tools and ornaments of 

natives of the Pacific Islands," I, PI. 160. 
I Ephraim, H. " Entwicklung der Webetechnik ausserhalb Eu- 

ropas," 40, 60. 

- Goddard, P. E.C) "Indians of the southwest." Am. Mus. 

Handbook 2. (Illustration.) 

- Handbook American Indians. Bu. Am. Eth. Bull. 30, 11. 

"Weaving." (Illustration.) 

- Handbook ethnographical collections, British Museum. (Illus- 

tration.) 

- Hooper, L.(') "Hand loom weaving." (Illustration.) 

- Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle : past, present and future." 

(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX. 
(^) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914. 
I James, G. W. "Indian blankets and their makers," 130, 

135- 
4 Kissell, M. L.(i) "Aboriginal weaving in America." Rept. 
Cotton Manuf. Asso., 1910. 



WEAVING TYPES 135 

I Kissell, M. L.(^) "Fabrics from primitive looms." 

- Magazines. See Magazine Illustration. 

I Mason, O. T.(i) "Origin of inventions," 246. 

3 Mason, O. T.{^) "Woman's share in primitive culture," 60. 

I Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." 3 Rept. Bureau Am. 

Ethnology. 
I Roth, H. L.(2) "Studies in primitive looms." (Shedding.) 

Bankfield Museum notes. Second series, 8. 

- Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." (Illustration.) 

3 Worcester, D. C. "Non-Christian tribes of northern Luzon," 
Philippine Journal of Science, I, 1906. 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Edge-Partington, I, Taf. 160. Loom from Santa Cruz. 
Ephraim, fig. 39. Loom from southeastern Asia. 

53. Loom from Santa Cruz. 
Goddard (}), p. 155. Navajo belt loom. 
Handbook Am. Indians, II. 

p. 928. Navaho belt weaving. 
Handbook ethnology collections, British Museum. 

p. 92. Philippine belt. 
Hooper Q), PL 8. Belt loom. 
Hooper (^) (*), fig. 3. Belt loom. 

p. 130. Warping for belts. 
James, p. 134. Navaho belt weaver at work. 
Kissell (^), fig. 14. Loom. 
Matthews, PL 36. Navajo woman weaving a belt. 

p. 388. Warping for belts. 
Roth (2), fig. I. Diagram to illustrate the principles of weav- 
ing. 
Watson, p. 15. Navajo belt weaver. 
Worcester, PL 43 b. An Ifugao woman weaving. 
45 c. Tingian weaver. 



136 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



V 
TWO-BEAM LOOM 

Distinctive Characteristics 

Simplest weaving implement for perfectly stretched 
warp : a loom of two beams with warp extended be- 
tween them. 

Warp devices : the two beams, a cloth beam and a warp 
beam. 




Fig. 50. — Egyptian Mat Loom 

This simple Two-beam loom with stretched warp is pegged to the ground. The 
weaver is obliged to sit upon the finished web as he works, since the cloth beam 
does not revolve. 

Weft devices: without shedding device, or with shed- 
stick and one or more rod-heddles; without picking 
device, or with stick-shuttle of different forms ; with 
out battening device, or with sword-shaped batten, or 
a weaving comb. 

Weaving proceeds from front backward, or from below 
upwards. 



WEAVING TYPES 



137 



Outline 



Examples : Ancient Egyptian mat makers ; Egyptians 
of Middle Kingdom ; Ishogo ; Ainu ; Navajo ; Egyp- 
tians of New Kingdom. 

Implement — Simple two-beam loom. 




Fig. 51. — -Egyptian Linen Loom, Middle Kingdom 

A horizontal loom pegged to the ground with shed-rod and rod-heddle and prob- 
ably two revolving beams. 



I. frame (29, 29b, c, d). 

a. none, four pegs secure beams to ground. 

b. none, two roof hooks and two floor hooks secure 

beams. 

c. none, warp beam attached to distant post, cloth 

beam to weaver's belt. 



138 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 




Fig. 52. — Slave Indian Quill Belt Loom 

A tree branch bent like a bow furnishes the frame on which to stretch the warp. 
It is a transitional form, since there are no beams. 

d. vertical frame of separate parts, two vertical 

posts, two crossbars. 

e. vertical frame of complete construction. 

2. beams, warp and cloth (19, 19e, 20, 21, 22, 22a, 

23). 
a. both beams non-revolving. 
h. warp beam non-revolving, cloth beam revolving. 
c. both beams revolving. 

3. heddles (24, 25, 26, 26a, b). 
a. none, fingers shed. 

h. shed-stick, and one or more rod-heddles. 

4. shuttle (27, 27a, b, c). 

a. none, fingers perform the picking. 

b. long needle-shuttle with hook or eye. 

c. short stick-shuttle. 

5. batten (28, 28a, b, c). 
a. none, fingers batten. 

h. none, save needle-shuttle. 

c. comb. 

d. sword-shape blade of wood. 
Warping device (30, 30b, c, d). 

a. series of stakes. 



WEAVING TYPES . 139 



b. wall pegs. 

c. bobbin creel and reel. 
Power — ^Hand (31). 



Fig. 53. — Navajo Method of Warping for Blanket Making 

The diagram shows the ends of two poles and the Navajo method of laying the 
continuous warp over them to form the shed-lease. 

Process — Loom mounting. 
Warping. 

a. none, warp laid directly on beams. 

b. warp laid over ground stakes. 

c. warp laid over wall pegs. 

d. warp strands pulled from spool frame and wound 

on reel. 
Beaming. 

a. warp laid on beams in place. 

b . warp arranged on free bars which later act as beams . 
HeddUng. 

a. none. 

b. with rod-heddle and shed-rod. 

1. shed-rod entered under and over alternate 

strands. 

2. heddle-rod laid across warp and a cord caught 

under each back warp strand and looped 
about heddle-rod. 
Wefting. 
Shedding, Picking, Battening. 

I. shed-rod holds open first shed; batten entered 
flatwise and turned edgewise in first shed; 



140 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



weft inserted through first shed ; batten beats 
up first line of weft. 




Fig. 54. — Navajo Loom 

Shed-rod («), rod-heddle (w), batten. (/), and two non-revolving beams (/) are 
present. The warp beam can be lowered by the cords {e and g) and the 
finished web below folded and stitched to the cloth beam. 

2. rod-heddle lifted to open second shed ; batten 

entered flatwise and turned edgewise in second 
shed; weft inserted in second shed; batten 
beats up second line of weft. 

3. process is then repeated. 
Warp adjusting. 

When there is adjustment the warp beam is 
lowered, and the cloth beam receives the 



WEAVING TYPES 141 

woven web either stitched to it in folds or 
rolled upon it. 

Economic Gain 

In production : 

Perfectly stretched warp. 

Shedding device increases speed of the more perfect 

varieties. 
Revolving cloth beam increases length of the same. 
In product : 
Texture firm from tightly and evenly stretched warp, 
although grades and materials of this type vary 
greatly. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

I Andre, E. "A naturalist in the Guianas." 
I Bancroft, H. H. "Native races," I, 502, 766. 

1 Banerjei, N. N.(^) "Woolen fabrics of Bengal,". 23. 

2 Banerjei, N. N.(2) Cotton fabrics of Bengal, 52. 

2 Banerjei, N. N.(^) Same as above in Journal Indian Art, VIII. 

3 Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving," 56. 
2 Bartlett, J. R. "Personal narratives," II, 225. 

- Braulik, A. " Altagyptische Weberei." Dingler's polytech- 

nisches Jour. 311. (Illustration.) 

- Cailliaud, M. F. "Les Arts et Metiers." (Illustration.) 

- Cavendish, A. E. J. "Korea and the sacred white mountain." 

(Illustration.) 

- Chamberlain, J. F. "How we are clothed." (Illustration.) 

- Champollion, J. F. " Monuments de I'Egypte," IV. (Illus- 

tration.) 

- Cole, F. C. "Bagobos of Davas Gulf." Philippine Jour. 

Science D. 6, 191 1. (Illustration.) 
I Coomaraswamy, A. K. "Mediaeval Sinhalese art," 243. 



142 YARN AND CT.OTH MAKING 

I Crawford, D. M. C. "Peruvian textiles." American Mu- 
seum Anthrop. Papers, XII, Pt. III. 
I Davies, N. de G. "Five Theban tombs." 
I Dellenbaugh^ F. S. "North Americans of yesterday." 

- Dewar, J. C. "Voyage to Nyanza, Salomon Island." (Illus- 

tration.) 

- Draper, D. O. "Labor saving looms." 

- Du Chaillu, P. "A journey to Ashangoland, W. Africa." 

(Illustration.) 
4 Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Weaving — archaeology and art." 

1 Ephraim, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik und ihre Ver- 

breitung ausserhalb Europas." A. p. 12, 26 ; B. 18, 23, 28, 40. 

2 Erman, A. "Life of ancient Egypt," 448. 

- General guide to American Mus. Natural History. (Illustration.) 
6 Goddard, P. E.(i) "Indians of the southwest." American 

Mus. Handbook, 2. 

2 Goddard, P. E.(^) "Navajo blankets." American Mus. 

Journal, Nov. 1910. 

- Gosse, A.B. "Thecivilizationof ancient Egypt." (Illustration.) 

- Handbook American Indians, II. "Weaving." (Illustration.) 

- Heiden, M. " Handworterbuch der Textilkunde." (Illustra- 

tion.) 

3 Hitchcock, R. "The Ainos of Yezo, Japan," 463. 
I HoUister, W. S. "The Navajo and his blanket." 

1 Hooper, L.(i) "Hand loom weaving," 18, 81; 19, 84-86. 

2 Hooper, L. "The loom and the spindle: past, present and 

future." (^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX. 
('') Rept. Smithsonian Institution, 1914. 
I Im Thurn, E. F. "Indians of British Guiana," 388. 
I James, G. W. "Indian blankets and their makers." 

3 James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England." 

- Kimakowicz-Winnicki. "Spinn- und Webewerkzeuge in vor- 

geschichtlicher Europas." Darstellung iiber friih und vor- 
geschichtlicher Kultur-Kunst und Volkerentwicklung, 2 Heft. 
(Illustration.) 



WEAVING TYPES 143 

- Kissell, M. L. "Aboriginal weaving in America." (Illustra- 

tion.) Rept. Cotton. Manuf. Asso., 1910. 
I Kissell, M. L. "Fabrics from primitive looms." (In prepara- 
tion.) 

- Lepsius, K. R. "Denkmaler," II. (Illustration.) 

- Manchester, H. H. "The story of silk and the Cheney silks." 

(Illustration.) 

I Marsden, R.(2) "Cotton weaving," 19,45. 

1 Mason, O. T.(i) "Origin of inventions-," 246. 

2 Mason, 0. T.(^) "Woman's share in primitive cvdture," 60. 

3 Maspero, G.(^) "Manual of Egyptian archaeology." 

I Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." 3 Rept. Bu. Am. Eth- 
nology. 

4 Miintz, E.(i) "Short history of tapestry." 

- Miintz, E.(^) "La tapisserie." (Illustration.) 

- Miintz, E.(^). "Tapisseries." (Illustration.) 
I Murphy, W. S. "Textile industries," IV, loi. 

- Newberry, P. E. "Beni Hassan," I, II. (Illustration.) 

- Newberry, P. E. "El Bersheh," I. (Illustration..) 
I New International Encyclopedia. "Looms." 

- Oppel, A. "Die Baumwolle." (Illustration.) 

- Olivier, L. "La Tunisie." (Illustration.) 

I Penhallow, D. P. "Fabrication of Aino Cloth." Scientific 
American Sup. V. 10, Sup. 244, Sept. 4, 1880; p. 3883. 

I Pepper, G. "Making of Navajo blanket." Everybody's Mag., 
Jan. 1902. 

- Perrot and Chipiez. " History of art in Egypt," I. 

- Ratzel, F. "History of Mankind," II. (Illustrations.) 

- Ronchaud, L. de. "Tapisserie." (Illustration.) 

- RoseUini, I. "Monumenti," II. (Illustration.) 

I Roth, H. L.(i) "Ancient Egyptian and Greek looms." Bank- 
field Mus. Notes, Series 2, No. 2. 

I Roth, H. L.(^) "Studies in primitive looms." Bankfield Mus. 
Notes, Series 2, No. 8. 

- Roth, H. L.(^) "Natives of Sarawak, Borneo." 



144 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

I Russell, F. "Pima Indians," 26 Report Bureau American 
Ethnology, 149. 

- Schurtz, H. "Urgeschichte der Kultur." (Illustration.) 

- Smith, W. Dictionary Greek and Roman antiquities, "Tela." 

.(Illustration.) 

- Smith, Wayte and Marindin. Dictionary Greek and Roman 

antiquities, "Tela." (Illustration.) 

3 Thomson, W. G. "A history of tapestry," 2. 

4 Tyler, E. B. "Anthropology." 
4 Walton, P. "Story of textiles." 

4 Warden, A. J. "Linen- trade, ancient and modern," 212. 

- Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." (Illustration.) 

4 Wilkinson, J. G. " Manners and customs of ancient Egyptians." 
I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Andrea, p. 40. Making hammock. 
Bancroft(^), p. 539. Mexican weaver. 
Banerjei (^) PI. 12, (^) PL 83. Weaving a dari. 
(^) 13 1 (^) 84. Weaving a kalin. 
Barlow, p. 56, fig. i. Egyptian mat loom. 

p. 57 Egyptian horizontal loom of Middle King- 

dom. 
Branlik, fig. 40. Egyptian horizontal loom. 

41. Shedding diagram. 
Cailliaud, PL 17 A. Loom of the Middle Kingdom. 
PL 18. Ancient Egyptian mat maker. 
Cavendish, p. 52. Weaving cloth. 

Chamberlain, p. 51. A native of the Congo basin weaving. 
ChampoUion, PL 366. Man weaving mat. 

PL 381. Women of Egypt weaving. 
Cole, fig. I. A Bagobo weaver with loom. 
Coomaraswamy, PL IV. Mat weavers. 
Crawford, p. 85. Common type of Peruvian loom. 



WEAVING TYPES 



145 



Davies, PL 37. Weaving in the XI Dynasty. 
Dellenbaugh, p. 127. Navajo woman at loom. 

131. Details of Navajo loom construction. 
Dewar, p. 46. Salomon Island loom for weaving grass cloth. 
Draper, p. 21. Mexican weaver. 
Du Chillue, p. 291. Ishogo loom and shuttle. 
Encyclopaedia Britannica. 

fig. 29. Loom from the Sarawak. 
Ephraim, fig. 16. Early Navajo loom. 

19. Navajo loom. 

21. Loom from Ischogo. 

24. Loom from North Africa. 

27. Old Egyptian loom. 

33. Tapestry weaving. 

34. Loom of the Aino. 
38. Loom of the Schoka. 

40. Loom of Borneo. 

41. Loom of the Philippines. 
54; Old Mexican loom. 

55. Loom of Central America. 
Erman, p. 448. Weaving in the Middle Empire. 
General guide to American Museum. 

p. 34. A Hopi weaver. 
Goddard (}), p. 153. Navajo woman beating down the wool with 

batten stick. 
Goddard (^), p. 203. Navajo summer home. 

206. Weaving a Navajo blanket. 
Gosse, p. T,;^. Egyptian women weaving. 

32. Man weaving on loom. 
Handbook American Indians, II. 

p. 928. Navajo spinning and weaving. 
Navajo loom. 
Egyptian horizontal loom. 
Rug loom of India. 
Aino woman weaving. 



929. 
Heiden, M., p. 10. 

256. 
Hitchcock, p. 463. 



146 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

HoUister, p. 25. Navajo summer hogan. 
HoUister, p. 121. Navajo weaver. 
Hooper Q), p. 20. Egyptian mat loom. 

21. Egyptian loom of Middle Kingdom, 
Hooper (^), {*), fig. 10. Egyptian loom and weaver. 

II. Egyptian loom of Middle Kingdom. 

13. Loops and heddle rod. 

14. Tapestry loom. 
28 b. Calibar loom. 

Im Thurn, p. 289. Carib method of making a hammock. 
James, Frontispiece. A Navaho weaver. 

p. 102, fig. 125. Navaho weaver at her open-air loom. 

104, fig. 126. Ordinary Navaho blanket loom. 

105, fig. 127. Warping for blanket. 

106, fig. 128. Navaho weaver at work. 

fig. 129. Batten stick in position for passage of 
weft. 

109, fig. 134. Weaving saddle girth, 

no, fig. 135. Healds for weaving diagonals. 

p. 114, fig. 141. EUe, one of the best weavers. 

fig. 142. Tuli, the child weaver. 

130, fig. 188. Warping for sash, 

132, fig. 190. Zuni heald. 

fig. 191. Aztec weaver. 

154, fig. 207. Navaho weaver. 

194, fig. 244. Hopi weaver at Sechomovi. 
fig. 245. Hopi weaver at Orabic. 

195, fig. 247. Hopi weaving ceremonial sash, 
Kimakowicz-Winnicki, p. 53, fig. 82. Egyptian loom of Middle 

Kingdom. 
Kissell C), fig. 9. Navajo loom. 
Lepsius. Abth. II, PL 126. Egyptian weavers. 
Magazines. See Magazine Illustration. 
Manchester, p. 14. The earliest picture of weaving. 
Marsden, p. 19. Ancient Egyptian mat weaver. 



WEAVING TYPES 147 

Marsden, p, 21. Egyptian loom with two weavers. 
24. Grecian vertical loom. 

46. Loom from Salomon Islands. 

47. Ishogo weaver, Ashangoland, West Africa. 
Mason Q), p. 244. Zuni woman weaving blanket. 

Mason {^), p. 61. Navajo weaver. 

266. Navajo woman weaving blanket. 
Maspero, p. 295. Man weaving hanging or carpet. 
321. Egyptian women weaving linen. 
Matthews, PL 35. Weaving diamond-shaped diagonals. 
38. Bringing down the batten. 
p. 378. Ordinary Navajo blanket loom. 
379. Diagram showing formation of warp. 

382. Weaving of saddle-girth. 

383. Arrangement of warp threads for saddle-girth. 

384. Diagonal cloth. 
391. Aztec weaver. 

Miintz (1), p. 4. High warp loom of ancient Egyptians. 
Miintz (2), ,17. Egyptian loom of Middle Kingdom. 
Miintz (^), 2 b. Egyptian loom of Middle Kingdom. 
Murphy, p. loi. Hammock weaving. 

Newberry Q), I, PI. 29, 2 row from below, Horizontal loom with 
two weavers. 

II, 13, 3 row from below, Beaming, Heddling. 

13, 4 row from below. Mat weaving. 
Newberry (^), I, PI. 26, i row from below. Warping, Beaming. 

26, 2 row from below, Weaver (at extreme 

right). 
Olivier, p. 244. Weaver at loom. 
245. Weaver at loom. 
Oppel, p. 209. Attemexikauerin webend. 
PenhaUow, PI. i. Instruments for weaving Aino cloth. 

2. Method of stretching warp. 

3. Weaving Aino cloth. 
Pepper, p. 35. Navajo weaver. 



148 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



Pepper, p. 39. Navajo warping. 

40. Warp beamed. 

41. Wefting. 

Perrot and Chipiez, I, p. 34. Women at loom. 
Ratzel, II, p. 392. Weaver of Ishogo. 
Ronchaud, p. 57. Egyptian weaver at horizontal loom. 
Rosellini, 2, PI. 41. Women weaving. 
41. Two mat makers. 
Roth (1), p. 3. Egyptian loom of Middle Kingdom (Cailliaud). 
4. Same (Wilkinson). 

4. Same (Rosellini). 

5. Same (Lepsius). 

5. Same (Newberry). 

6. Same (Davies). 
9. Same (Davies). 

11. Model from Liverpool Institute. 

12. Tomb of Tehuti-hetep, El Bershel. 

13. Bedouin Arab weaving. 

19. Wooden peg, Manchester Museum. 

19. Lathes, Manchester Museum. 

20. Weaving comb, Manchester Museum. 
25. The linen girdle of Rameses III. 

30. Bushongo weaver at work. 
Roth (^), fig. I. Principles of weaving. 
I a. Heddle rod. 

2. Spools and shuttles. 

3, 4. Ainu woman weaving. 
8-28. Details of Ainu weaving. 
29, 30. Slave Indian loom. 
31-37. Weaving devices. 

PI. I. Mazatec loom. 
Roth (^) , p. 30. Loom of the Sarawak. 
Russell, p. 149. Model of Pima loom. 
Schurtz, p. 320. Aino loom. 
Smith, fig. 4. Simple Greek loom of Middle Age. 
6. Weaver in modern Lycia. 




Fig. 56. — Hopi Belt Weaver Opening Upper Shed 

This simple shaft heddle opens both sheds and does the work of shed-rod and 

rod-heddle. 
Here the heddle is lowered opening upper shed, the batten is entered and turned 

edgewise to hold open the shed. The shuttle will be passed through shed 

and batten turned flatwise will beat up weft when it will be removed. 
Fig. 54 shows the heddle lifted opening lower shed, the batten entered and turned 

edgewise, and the shuttle passing into open shed. 



WEAVING TYPES I 49 

Smith, Wayte and Marindin. 

fig. 4. Simple Greek loom of Middle Age. 
6. Weaver in modern Lycia. 
Thurn, p. 289. Carib model of making a hammock. 
Thomson, fig. i. A simplified tapestry loom. 

5. Egyptian weavers. 
Tylor, p. 248. Aztec girl weaving. 
Walton, Frontispiece. Navajo weaver. 
Watson, p. 18. Navajo loom. 

20. Japanese loom. 
Wilkinson, I, p. 317. Horizontal loom (for linen). 
II, 170. Mat loom. 
II, 174. Wooden comb. 
Woolman and McGowan. 

p. 51. Navajo loom. 

VI 
ONE-SHAFT LOOM 

Distinctive Characteristics 

Weaving implement : a frameless stretched warp loom 
v^ith shaft-heddle hanging loosely on warp ; warp 
extends between free cloth beam attached to belt 
passing about body of weaver and distant post. 

Warp devices : free cloth beam and bunched warp ends. 

Weft devices : one shaft-heddle adjusted by hand ; short 
stick shuttle ; sword-shaped batten. 

Weaving proceeds from front backward. 

Outline 

Example : Zuni and Hopi belt weaving.. 
Implement — One-shaft loom. 
I. no frame (29, 29a). 



150 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

2. beams (19, 20, 21, 21a). 

(i) non-revolving cloth beam attached to 
weaver's belt, web held over beam by 
a removable iron pin. 
(2) warp beam. 

a. missing ; bunched warp attached to dis- 
tant post. 
h. revolving beam held by weaver's feet. 

3. one free shaft-heddle of slats holding all warp 

strands (24, 25, 26, 26c). 

d) eyelets in slats holding alternate warp 
strands. 

(2) slits between slats for second series of alter- 
nate warp strands. 

4. stick-shuttle (27, 27c). 

5. batten (28, 28a, c). 

a. fingers only. 
h. sword-shaped stick. 
Warping device (30, 30b) . 

a series of short stakes driven into ground. 
Power — Hand (3l). 
Process — Loom mounting. 
Warping. 

warp strands laid in lengths desired without making 
lease. 
Beaming, Heddling. 

1. warp ends bunched and attached to post. 

2. first series of warp ends passed through heddle 

eyelets, second series passed through slits. 

3. warp ends attached to cloth beam. 



WEAVING TYPES 1 51 

Wefting. 

Shedding, Picking, Battening. 

1 . heddle raised to open first shed ; batten entered 

and turned edgewise in first shed; shuttle 
inserts weft through first shed ; batten flat- 
wise beats up first fine of weft. 

2. heddle lowered to open second shed; batten 

entered and turned edgewise in second shed ; 
shuttle inserts weft through second shed ; 
batten flatwise beats up second line of weft. 

3. process is then repeated. 
Warp adjusting. 

1. weaver moves in toward warp post. 

2. unpins previously finished web and draws over 

the cloth beam the freshly finished web and 
again inserts iron pin. 

Economic Gain 

Here the comparison is between the belt looms : the 
Two-bar loom and the One-shaft loom. 
In production : 

Increased speed from opening both sheds by same 

device. 
A more easily managed heddle. 
In product : 

More closely packed weft. 

More evenly distributed warp from the shaft heddle. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

5 Barlow, A. " History and principles of weaving," p. 56. 

4 Encyclopaedia Britannica. " Weaving ^ archaeology and art." 



152 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

I Ephraim, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik und ihre Ver- 

breitung ausserhalb Europas." 
I Foreman, S. E. "Stories of useful inventions," p. 112. 

- Handbook American Indians, II. "Weaving." (Illustration.) 

- Marsden, R.(^) "Cotton weaving." (Illustration.) 
I Mason, O. T.Q) " Origin of inventions." 

I Mason, 0. T.(^) "Primitive frame for weaving narrow fabrics." 

Rept. National Museum, 1899, p. 485. 
I Mason, O. T.(^) Same article as above in Scientific Am. Sup. 

V. 51, sup. 1324. 

1 Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." 3 Rept. Bureau Ethnology. 

- Ronchaud, L. de. "Tapisserie." (Illustration.) 

- Stevenson, M. "Zufii Indians." 23 Rept. Bureau Am. Eth- 

nology. (Illustration.) 

2 Thompson, W. G. "History of tapestry." 
2 Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." 

- Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." (Illustration.) 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Ephraim, fig. 8. Heddle of Tsimshean. 

9. Heddle. 
Foreman, p. 113. The Pueblo loom. 

114. The shaft heddle. 
Magazines. See Magazine Illustration. 
Marsden (2), p. 45. A Japanese weaver. 
Mason (^), fig. i. Chippewa heddle frame. 

2, 3. Masquakie heddle frame and shuttle. 

4. Heddle from Helsingfors, Finland. 

5. Heddle and shuttle, Helsingfors, Finland. 

6. Heddle and shuttle, Saalfeld, E. Prussia. 

7. Heddle and shuttle, Saalfeld, E. Prussia. 

8. 9. Heddles from Stettin, N. Germany. 

10, II. Heddles from Siena, Italy, and Lancaster, 
Penn. 



WEAVING TYPES 1 53 

12. Heddle frame, Bristol, Conn. 

13. Heddle frame, Bristol, Conn. 

14. Heddle with healds disconnected at top, Maine. 

15. Sketches showing method of attaching healds, 
Pueblo Indians. 

16. Pueblo woman working heddle in belt weaving. 

17. 18. Zuiii heddles. 

19. Batten from Guadalajara, Mexico. 
PL I. Zuiii woman weaving ceremonial belt. 
3. Loom with heddle frame for silk braid. 
6-8. Pueblo heddle frames. 
9. Pueblo batten knives. 
Mason (^), figs. i-io. Heddle frames. 

1 1 . Pueblo woman weaving belt , working heddle. 

12. Zuni woman weaving ceremonial belt. 
Matthews, PL 37. Zuiii woman weaving a belt. 

p. 388. Warping for belts. 

389. Wooden heald of the Zuni. 
Stephenson, p. 373. Wewha weaving a belt. 
Watson, p. 14. Pueblo woman working heddle. 

16. Zuni woman weaving belt. 

17. Primitive heddles. 
Woolman and McGowan. 

p. 9. Pueblo woman weaving. 
53. Primitive heddles. 

VII 
ONE-SHAFT TREADLE LOOM 

Distinctive Characteristics 

Simplest weaving implement employing foot power: a 
treadle loom with one suspended shaft-heddle and a 
shed-rod ; crudest attached and permanently entered 



154 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

batten ; the warp beam set in a rough horizontal frame 
and the free cloth beam attached to a belt about weaver. 
Developing shedding, battening, frame and power. 




Fig. 58. — Early Korean Loom 

The one-shaft heddle is crudely lifted by a toe-cord; the shuttle is passed 
through open shed. When the line of weft is beaten up by the free reed- 
batten the heddle will be lowered and the shed-rod will open the other shed. 

Warp devices : a revolving warp beam and a free revolv- 
ing cloth beam. 

Weft devices : a shed-rod for first shed and a suspended 
shaf t-heddle for second shed ; small hollow boat- 
shaped shuttle inclosing a revolving quill for weft; 
suspended swinging reed batten. 

Outline 

Examples : Chinese ; Japanese ; Korean (Ainu, Korean and 
Indian looms show transitional forms with hand power) . 



WEAVING TYPES 



155 




Fig. 59. — Early Chinese Loom 

Another crude attachment for lifting the shaft-heddle is connected with a 

treadle-slat ; reed-batten swung from a unique contrivance. 



156 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Implement — One-shaft treadle loom. 

1. frame (29, 29e, f). 

oblong base with upright posts supporting 
warp beam, heddle harness and, at times, 
batten. 

2. beams (19, 20, 21, 22, 22c, d). 

(i) revolving warp beam attached to frame and 
governed by 

a. stop-boards. 

h. stop-pegs. 
(2) revolving cloth beam attached to weaver's belt. 

3. heddles (24, 25, 26, 26d). 
(i) shed-rod. 

a. huge round bar attached to loom. 
h. flat bar, free, can be turned edgewise. 
(2) shaft-heddle suspended from frame posts and 
elevated by foot power with 
a. cord loop over toe. 
h. treadle board. 
c. swinging slat-board. 

4. shuttle (27, 27b, c, d). 
a. needle-shuttle. 

h. stick-shuttle. 
c. bobbin shuttle. 

5. batten (28, 28d, e). 
a. free reed batten. 

h. swinging reed batten. 
Warping device, probably stakes (30, 30b). 
Power — Hand for picking and battening (31, 31a). 
Foot for moving shaft-heddle. 



WEAVING TYPES 1 57 

Process — Loom mounting. 

Warping as in Two-shaft treadle loom. 
Heddling. 

1. one series of alternate warp strands passed over 

shed-rod. 

2. second series of alternate warp strands passed 

under shed-rod, then between slats of the one 

heddle-shaft. 
Wefting. 
Shedding, Picking, Battening. 

1. shed-rod holds open first shed; shuttle inserts 

weft through first shed ; already entered batten 
beats up first line of weft. 

2. shaft-heddle raised by treadle holds open second 

shed ; shuttle inserts weft through second shed ; 
batten beats up second line of weft. 

3. process is then repeated. 
Warp adjusting. 

1. fresh warp unrolled from warp beam. 

2. finished web wound on free cloth beam attached 

to weaver's belt. 



Economic Gain 

Comparison here is with the Two-beam loom, the last 
wide cloth type. 
In production : 

Introduction of foot power for the one heddle. 
A permanently entered batten. 
Revolving warp and cloth beams. 



158 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

In product : 
A longer web. 
A closer, more even web of fine yarn. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

5 Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving," 66. 

- Carus, P. "Chinese life and customs." (Illustration.) 

- Draper, G. 0. "Labor saving looms." (Illustration.) 

1 Ephriam, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik ausserhalb Eu- 

ropas." Museum fiir Volkerkunde zu Leipzig, Band I, Heft I. 

2 Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle : past, present and future." 

(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX. 
(^) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914. 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

Barlow, p. 65. Chinese silk loom. 
Carus, p. 29. A Chinese loom. 
Draper, p. 29. Japanese weaver. 
Ephriam, fig. 43. Loom of Japan. 

44. Loom of Korea. 

45. Loom of China. 
Magazines. See Magazine Illustration. 

VIII 
TWO-SHAFT TREADLE LOOM 

Distinctive Characteristics 

Weaving implement : a two-shaft treadle loom ; beams 
outside of loom frame ; cloth beam pegged to ground, 
or attached to posts, or to belt of weaver ; without warp 
beam, or when with it fastened to distant post, to roof, 
or high on side wall. Developing beams and frame. 



WEAVING TYPES 



159 




i6o 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 




WEAVING TYPES l6l 

Warp devices : non-revolving, or revolving cloth beam ; 
non-revolving warp beam, or bunched warp ends with 
cord attachment. 

Weft devices : two or more shaf t-heddles worked by 
treadle cords; stick-shuttle, or short boat-shaped 
shuttle with inner bobbin ; for battening, the stick- 
batten, or a suspended reed batten. 

Outline 

Examples : India outdoor, and simpler indoor weaving ; 

W. African coast ; Medieval Egypt. 
Implement — Two-shaft treadle loom. 

1. frame (29, 29e, g). 

a. none, branch of overhead tree supports heddle 

and batten. 

b. two trees, or two high posts, between which 

is a crossbar for suspending heddle and 
batten. 

c. four-post, or tripod frame. 

2. beams, free from frame (19, 20, 21, 21b, 22, 23). 
(i) cloth beam. 

a. revolving, pegged to ground. 

b. revolving, fastened to weaver's belt. 

c. non-revolving, fastened to post. 
(2) warp beam, non-revolving. 

a. none, warp ends bunched, attached to 

post. 

b. beam attached to distant post. 

c. beam fastened to ceiUng, or high on side 

wall. 



l62 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 




WEAVING TYPES 



163 



3. heddles, two shaft-heddles suspended by cord 

gear which connects with foot power in pit 

below ground (24, 25, 26e). 
a. treadle cord loops. 
h. inverted halves of cocoanut shell, or bits of 

bamboo sticks. 
c. long wooden treadles. 

4. shuttle (27, 27c, d). 
a. stick-shuttle. 

h. boat-shape shuttle with weft bobbin. 

5. batten (28, 28b, d, f). 

a. stick-batten; comb. 

b. suspended reed-batten. 




Fig. 63. — Stake Warping, India 
Two warps are laid at one time. 

Warping device (30, 30b, c). 
a. row of stakes set in pairs. 
h. warping frame. 
Power — Hand and Foot (31, 31a). 



1 64 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Process — Loom mounting. 

Warping, warp interlaced through and around parallel 

row of stakes, or pegs, and so crossed as to 

form the leases. 
Beaming, Heddling. 

1. warp attached to one beam. 

2. one series of alternate warp strands entered 

through eyelets of one heddle-shaf t, and second 
series through eyelets of second shaft. 

3. warp attached to second beam. 
Wefting. 

Shedding, Picking, Battening. 

1. first treadle lowers first heddle, opening first 

shed ; shuttle inserts weft in first shed ; batten 
beats up first line of weft. 

2. second treadle lowers second heddle, opening 

second shed ; shuttle inserts weft in second 
shed ; batten beats up second line of weft. 

3. process repeated. 
Warp adjusting. 

1. warp let in from distant post. 

2. finished web wound on cloth beam. 

Economic Gain 

In production : ' 

Foot power for both heddles. 

Unified shedding device, with both sheds opened by a 
like device. 

The suspended reed batten of firmer, stronger con- 
struction. 




Fig. 64. — Egyptian Loom, Middle Ages 
Revolving cloth beam, warp extended to side wall. 




Fig. 65. — A Shawl Loom, Asia 
Revolving cloth beam, warp extended upward to ceiling. 



WEAVING TYPES 1 65 

In product : 
A close and even web, although fabrics from this type 
are of many grades and materials. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

I Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture," 69. 

I Banerjei, N. N.(2) "Cotton fabrics of Bengal," 46. 

I Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving," 60. 

- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustra- 

tion.) 

1 Coomaraswamy, A. K. "Medieval Sinhalese art," 234. 

- Draper, G. O. "Labor saving machines." (Illustration.) 

2 Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Weaving, archaeology and art." 

- Ephraim, H. "Entwicklungder Webetechnik." (Illustration.) 
I Foreman, S. E. "Stories of useful inventions." 

4 Garstang, J. "Burial customs of ancient Egypt." 

3 Gilroy, C. G.(^) "History of silk, cotton, linen, wool," 342. 

4 Hooper, L.(^) "Hand-loom weaving," 27, 87. 

3 Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle: past, present and 
future." (^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX, 3120. 
(*) Report Smithsonian Institution, 19 14. 
Journal of Indian Art. 

1 VIII, Banerjei, N. N.(3) " Cotton fabrics of Bengal." 

2 X, Brendon, B. A. "Woolen fabrics in Bombay." 
I X, Dewar, F. "Silk fabrics in Central Provinces." 

1 X, Edwards, S. M. "Silk fabrics in Bombay." 

2 X, Entoven, R. E. "Cotton fabrics in Bombay." 
I, Gupte, B. A. "Thana silks." (Illustration.) 

I V, Mookerjei, N. G. " Silk industries of Moorshedabad." 

I X, Silberrad, C. A. " Cotton fabrics of N. W. Provinces." 

- Klose, H. "Togo." (lUustration.) 

I Marsden, R.(^) "Cotton weaving," 41, 249. 

3 Mill.J. "History of British India," i ed., V. I; 2 ed., V. II; 

4 ed., V. 



l66 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

1 Murphy, J. "Art of weaving," I, 8; IV, io6. 

- Oppel, A. "Die Baumwolle." (Illustration.) 

- Paulitschke, P. " Ethnographie Nordost-Afrikas." (Illustra- 

tion.) 

2 Powell, B. H. "Handbook of manufactures of Punjab," 36. 

- Revoil, G. "Reise im Lande der Benadir, Somali und Bajun." 

Globus, 47. (Illustration.) 

- Schurtz, H. " Urgeschichte der Kultur." (Illustration.) 

I Simmonds, P. D. "Ure's cotton manufacture," I, 112, II, 207. 

I Tomlinson, C. Cyclopaedia useful arts, II. "Weaving." 

I Ure, A.(^) "Cotton manufacture," I, 39, II, 256. 

1 Ure, A.(^) Dictionary of arts, manufactures and mines, II. 

"Weaving." 
4 Walton, P. "Story of textiles." 

2 Walton, W. "Cotton in the Bombay Presidency," 149. 

1 Watson, J. F. "Textile manufacture and customs of people of 

India," 67. 

2 Watson, J. "Art of weaving." 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

Baines, p. 70. Loom of India. 
Banerjei (^), PL 10. Weaver at loom. 
Barlow, fig. 6. Loom of India (interior). 
Butterworth, p. 176, fig. 3. Hindoo loom. 
Coomaraswamy. 

PL 6, I Cloth- weaver separating warp threads. 
6, 2 Cloth-weaver throwing shuttle. 
29, I Front view of loom. 
29, 2 Side view of loom. 
Draper, p. 24. Hindoo weaver. 
Encyclopaedia Britannica. 

fig. 30. Indian Hill tribesman's loom. 
Ephraim, fig. 29. Loom of Haussa. 

30. Loom of the Vey. . 

31. Loom of the Ehve. 



WEAVING TYPES 



167 



Ephriam, fig. 32. 

32a. 

48. 
Foreman, p. 115. 
Garstang, p. 134. 
Gilroy (2), PL 2. 

5- 
Globus, 47, p. 325 
Hooper Q), p. 87. 



Loom of Somali. 
Loom of Galla. 

Loom of India. 

Old African loom. 

Hand-loom weaving at Abu-Kirkes. 
Egyptian factory. 
Indian loom (interior). 
. Cotton weaver in Mogduschu. 

Loom of India. 



Hooper (^) ('*), fig. 29. Primitive loom. (India.) 
Journal Indian Art and Industry. 

VIII, Banerjei, PI. 83. Weaver working at loom. 



X, Brendon, 
X, Dewar, 

X, Edwards, 



Woolen hand loom. 

Beaming. 

Warping. 

Warping-machine. 

Warping-frame. 

Weaving. 

Cloth loom of Bombay. 

Thana silk weaver. 

Weaving. 



I, Enthoven, 
I, Gupte, 

X, Siiberrad, 14. 
Klose, p. 152. A weaver of Assahun. 
Magazines. See Magazine Illustration. 
Marsden, p. 42. Loom of India. 
43. Loom in interior. 
249. Indian warper. 
Murphy, Frontispiece. Loom within doors. 



Murphy, I, p 

III,p 

Oppel, p. 208 

215 

565 
591 
595 



8. Indian hand loom. 
60. Weaving a Cashmere shawL 
Indischer weber. 
Haussa Webevorrichtung. 
Malayischer Webstuhl. 
Weber an der Goldkiiste. 
Suaheli am Webstuhl. 



Paulitschke, PL 25. Two weavers of northeast Africa. 



1 68 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Powell, p. 35- Shawl loom. 

Revoil, p. 327. Loom of the Somali. 

Schurtz, p. 275. Weavers of the Gold coast. 

410. Loom of east Africa. 
Simmonds, I, 102. Outdoor loom of India. 
Ure C), I, 33. Outdoor loom of India. 
Walton, p. 60. Ancient Egyptian weaving. 

72. Hindu weaver at his loom (exterior). 
Walton, 28. The "Magga" or loom with weaver. 
Watson, 64, fig. 2. Warping. 

4. Applying the reed. 

6. Forming the heddles. 

5. Weaving Dacca muslins. 



IX 
PERFECTED HAND LOOM 
Distinctive Characteristics 

First weaving • implement with its entire mechanism 
united within the frame and working in unison : a 
two or more shaft treadle loom with its two beams set 
in ends of frame. 

Warp devices : revolving warp and cloth beams. 

Weft devices : two or more shaft heddles worked by 
treadles ; bobbin-shuttle, fly-shuttle or drop-box- 
shuttle ; stick-batten, or suspended reed-batten. 

Outline 

Examples : Medieval Greek ; Colonial ; French (two 
weavers) ; English fly-shuttle looms. 



WEAVING TYPES 1 69 

Implement — Perfected hand loom. 

I. frame including all working parts (29, 29e, h). 



Fig. 66. — Greek Loom of Middle Ages 

An early Perfected hand loom with all parts united within the frame. It 
differs from the later form in its vertical warp and horizontal heddles. 

a. two cross-shape side boards joined above 

and below. 

b. four posts joined by bars at sides and ends. 



lyo YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

2. cylindrical revolving beams, warp and cloth (19, 
20, 21, 21c, 22, 22d). 

a. with vertical warp. 

b. with horizontal warp. 




Fig. 67. — Perfected Hand Loom with Fly-shuttle 

A rectangular frame supports all working parts. Horizontal warp, W, extends 
between the revolving warp beam, A, and the cloth beam, B ; two treadles, 
T, raise and lower alternately the two shaft heddles, H, to open the warp 
sheds. The swinging batten, E, beats home the weft ; while at its two 
ends the shuttle-boxes, G, receive the shuttle as it is thrown from box to 
box by a jerk of the black peg attached to a string loop. 



heddles, two or more shaft-heddles constructed 
with thread eyelets stretched between two 
laths (24, 25, 26e). 

a. horizontal heddles. 

b. vertical heddles balanced by cords over pulleys 

and attached below to treadles. 



WEAVING TYPES 



171 




Reproduced by permission from Hooper's " Hand-loom Weaving." 
Macmillan, U. S. A., and John Hogg, London- 

Fig. 68. — Hand Shuttle 

I, Boat-shaped shell and inside bobbin. 2, Section of shell and bobbin. 
3, Spring for holding quill. 4, Bobbin, a quill with yarn wound on. 
5, Side of shuttle showing center eye where yarn escapes from the shuttle. 

4. treadles. 

a. worked by balance weights. 

h. worked by direct treading process. 




Fig. 69. — Fly-shuttle 
A longer, deeper, broader, heavier shuttle. 

5. shuttle, revolving bobbin within boat-shape hol- 
low box (27, 27d, e, f). 

a. hand bobbin-shuttle. 

b. fly-shuttle with wheels upon which to travel 

and a shuttle-race with end boxes. 



172 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

c. drop-box shuttle with tiers of end boxes which 
rise and fall to bring compartments to 
shuttle-race level. 
6. batten C28, 28d, f, h). 
a. free stick batten. 

h. reed-batten set in pendulous frame, or lathe. 
Warping device (30, 30c, d). 

a. warping board or frame with pegs. 
h. warping mill, reel and bobbin frame. 
Power — Hand and Foot (31, 31a). 
Process — Loom mounting. 

Warping, warp threads measured off in equal lengths 
and crossed to form the two leases on warping 
frame or mill. 
Beaming, Heddling. 

1. warp ends spread across warp beam and strands 

wound on, carefully preserving leases. 

2. ends of alternate strands entered through eyes of 

first heddle, ends of second set of alternate 
strands entered through eyes of second heddle 
to prepare for shedding. 

3. ends of all strands entered in regular order 

through reed-batten. 

4. ends attached to cloth beam, stretching warp 

between two beams. 
Wefting. 
Shedding, Picking, Battening. 

I . foot presses down first treadle which draws down 
first heddle with the first series of alternate 
warp strands threaded through it, and simul- 



WEAVING TYPES 



173 



-^Y_:^^:_:Q:_4|- ,-[}• %^fi-_ 




174 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 




Fig. 71. — Hungarian Peasant Warping 

This warping reel similar in form to the mill is turned by the left hand as the 
right lays on two strands at a time. 



taneously raises second heddle with the second 
series of alternate strands threaded through 
it, thus opening the first shed. (Simpler 
method, p. 164.) 



WEAVING TYPES 



175 



hand shuttle thrown by hand through open 
shed ; fly-shuttle and drop-box-shuttle driven, 
by a quick jerk given the picking device, 
along the shuttle-race through the open shed ; 
in each instance the shuttle leaves behind a 
line of weft between the divided warp. 




Reproduced hy permission from Hooper's " Hand-loom Weaving." 
Macmillan, U. S. A., and John Hogg, London. 

Fig. 7.2. — Loom Prepared for Entering Warp through Heddles 
AND Reed-batten 

Entering need only be done when a harness is new ; after the first entering 
the new warp strands are tied to old strands of the previous web left long 
enough to still pass through the heddles and reed. For entering, the warp 
coiled on the beam is gently unwound, preserving the two leases by the 
rods, B. Then the slender hook, 2, draws each strand through the heddle 
eyelets, D, and the flat hook, 3, between the dents of the reed, 4. 

3. stick-batten is run into shed to beat up weft, or 

lathe reed-batten is forcefully swung against 
the line of weft just put in. 

4. depression of the second treadle reverses the 

order of heddles opening the second shed, and 



176 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 




Reproduced by permisston from Hooper's " Hand-loom Weaving." 
Macmillan, V. S. A., and John Hogg, London. 

Fig. 73. — -Shed Opening Mechanism. Treadles and Heddles at 

Work 

A, warp beam; B, cloth beam; C, lease rods; D, heddle harness pulley; 
E, treadles ; F, shed opened by heddles and treadles. 




Fig. 74. — Hand-shuttle at Work 

The shuttle is thrown from one hand to the other, leaving a line of weft through 
the open shed when the reed-batten will beat close the line of weft. 




Fig. 75. — Fly-shxjttle at Work 

With each jerk of the peg in the right hand the shuttle flies through the open 
shed to the shuttle box at the other end, leaving in its trail a line of weft. 
Then the left hand, freed from helping as required by the hand-shuttle, beats 
up the weft with the reed-batten. 



178 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



at the same time if the drop-box-shuttle is in 
use, drops or raises the end boxes so that the 
shuttle desired is on a level with shuttle-race. 

5. shuttle deposits another line of weft. 

6. batten beats up second line of weft. 

7. process is then repeated. 

Adjustment of warp when some distance of web is 
woven : wef ting is stopped and fresh warp is 
"let off " from warp beam and woven web 
" taken up " on cloth beam. 




Fig. 76. — Drop-box Fly-shuttle 

The shuttle here works as in Fig. 75, but there are added for shuttles of 
different colored yarns two tiers of end boxes with a contrivance for raising 
and lowering the boxes to bring them level with the warp shed as each 
color is needed. 



Economic Gain 

In production : 

Developed frame unites loom mechanism. 
Steadier beams. 

Longer web on revolving beams with " take up 
" let off " motions. 



and 



WEAVING TYPES 179 

In later varieties with fly-shuttle, a wider web and 

greater speed. 
In product : 

More uniform texture from smooth running mechanism. 
More parallel warp from perfectly stretched warp. 
More even weft from refined shedding, picking and 

battening devices. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

I Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving." 

I Beaumont, R-C) "Wool manufacture." (Loom mounting), 

IIS- 
I Beaumont, R.(^) "Woollen and worsted." (Loom mounting), 

325- 
I Blount, Mrs. G. "Story of a homespun web." 

- Brooks, C. P. "Cotton." (Illustration.) 

- Brooks, E. C. "Story of cotton." (Illustration.) 

- Butter worth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustra- 

tion.) 

1 Champlin, J. D. "Young folks' cyclopaedia of common 

things." 

- Clapham, J. H. "Woollen and worsted industries." (Illus- 

tration.) 

2 Dooley, W. H. "Textiles," 53. 

- Draper, G. O. "Labor saving looms." (Illustration. )_^ 

- Ducousso, G. "L'industrie de la sole en Syrie et au Liban." 

(Illustration.) 
I Earle, A. M. "Home life in colonial days." 
I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Weaving machinery, technology." 

- Ephraim, H. "Entwicklungder Webetechnik." (Illustration.) 

3 Foreman, S. E. "Stories of useful invention," 116-119. 

- Gibbs, C. "Household textiles." (Illustration.) 
I Gilroy, C. G.Q) "Art of weaving." 



l8o YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

- Gilroy, C. G.(^) "History of silk, cotton, linen, wool." (Illus- 

tration.) 
I Guest, R. " Cotton manufacture," 7. 
I Hooper, L.^) "Hand-loom weaving," 9, 49, 224, 227. 
I Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle: past, present and 

future." 

(^) Journal of Royal Society of Arts, London, LX, 

955- 

(^) Rept. Smithsonian Institution 1914, 648. 
3 James, J. "History of worsted manufacture in England," 14. 
Journal Indian Art. 

I X, Hardiman, J. P. "Silk in Burma." 

3 X, Samman, H. F. "Cotton of Assam." 

- Manchester, H. H. "The story of silk and Cheney silks." 

(Illustration.) 
I Marsden, R.(^) "Cotton weaving," 27, 37, 48, 250. 

- Megraw, R. H. "Textiles and the origin of their names." 

(Illustration.) 
I Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," IV, 106. 
I New International Encyclopedia. "Looms." 
3 Nystrom, P. H. "Textiles," 23, 76. 

- Olivier, L. "La Tunisie." (Illustration.) 

- Oppel, A. "Die Baumwolle." (Illustration.) 

I Potter, G. R. "SUk manufacture," 1831-214, 1832-180. 

- Rock, D. "Textile fabrics." . (Illustration.) 
I Schams, J. "Handbuch der Weberei." 

I Simmonds, P. D. "Ure's cotton manufacture," II, 203. 

I Tomlinson, C. Cyclopaedia useful arts, II. "Weaving." 

I Ure, A.(^) "Cotton manufacture," II, 257. 

I Ure, A.(^) "Dictionary arts, manufactures and mines," II. 

(Weaving.) 
r Walton, P. "Story of textiles." (Picture text, p. 130.) 
I Warden, A. J. "Linen, ancient and modern," 218, 227, 700, 702. 
3 Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing," 19. 
I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." 



WEAVING TYPES l8l 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



Barlow, p. 6i. Medieval Greek loom. 

pp. 76-93. English hand loom. 
Beaumont^), figs. 74-77. English hand loom. 
Beaumont(^), pp. 352-359. English hand loom. 
Blount, p. 17, 21, 25. Hand loom and parts. 
Brooks, C. P., p. 120. Hand spinning and weaving. 
Brooks, E. C, p. 56. Old time loom. 

107. Weaving in Alabama. 
262. Hand loom weaving in Japan. 
Butterworth, p. 176, fig. 4. Hand loom. 
Champlin, fig. 2. Hand cloth-loom. 

3. Shuttle. 
Clapham, p. 58. Irish cottage hand loom. 
Dooley, p. 55. A simple hand loom. 

59. Drawing warp ends through reed. 
Draper, p. 25. Flemish weaver. 

26. Loom as used before Kay. 
26. Hand loom with fly-shuttle. 
30. Old colonial loom. 
Ducousso, p. 198. Tisserand en Sole Syrian. 
Earl, p. 225. Loom shuttles. 

238. Weaving rag carpet. 
Encyclopaedia Britannica. 

fig. 24. Hand loom. 

25. Weaver's reed. 

26. Section of plain web. 
31. Medieval loom. 

Ephraim, fig. 2. Type loom. 

28. North African treadle loom. 

29. Loom of Hausa. 

30. Loom of the Vey. 

31. Loom of the Ehoe. 

49. Kashmir loom. 

50. Treadle loom of Inner India. 



I»2 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



Farrer, p. 7. Medieval loom. 

Foreman, p. 117. Loom of the sixteenth century. 

118. Kay's fly-shuttle. 
Gibbs, p. 30. Hand loom of colonial days. 
Gilroy 0), pp. 75, 76. Working parts of the plain loom. 
Gilroy (^), PL V. Indoor loom of India. 
Guest, PL 4. Table loom, Mr. Kay's lathe shuttle. 
Hooper Q). Frontispiece. Domestic loom, from a Lyonnese 
woodcut, 1510. 

figs. 14-2 1 a. Warping on warping board. 
22-27. Warping mill. 
28-38. Beaming. 
39-40. Shedding. 

41. Loom of India. 

42. Old English loom. 

44. Section of open warp. 

45, 46. The reed-batten. 

47. Loom prepared for entering. 
50. Heddle frame. 
■ 51. Hand-shuttle. 

52. Method of handling one or two shuttles. 

53. Fly-shuttle. 

54. Fly-shuttle batten. 

55. Temple. 

Hooper (^) 0), fig. 30. Reed fitted in its frame. 

31. Section of open warp. 

32. Bethual Green silk weaver. 
2,s. English hand loom. 

34. English silk weaver, 14 century. 
57. Fly-shuttle batten. 
James, fig. 7. Medieval Greek loom. 
8. Early European loom. 
Journal of Indian Art, X, 

Hardiman, PL 17 a. Warpirig machine. 
b. Warping machine. 



WEAVING TYPES 183 

Hardiman, PI. 17 c. Warping on stakes. 

iS b. Warping on stakes. 

c. Warping frame. 

d. Loom frame. 

ig a. Warp ready for loom. 

b. Burma loom. 

c. Entering warp through reed. 
Samman, PL 13 a. Weaving in Assam. 

c. Loom. 
Magazine. See Magazine Illustration. 
Manchester, p. 16. Ancient Chinese weaving. 
Marsden {^), p. 28. Greek loom. 

37. Flemish loom. 

38, 39. French loom. 

43. Indoor loom of India. 

51. Kay's fly-shuttle loom. 

227. Hand-loom lay with drop-boxes. 

251. Peg warping, an ancient English method. 
Megraw, p. 9. A weaver. 
Murphy, IV, p. 104. Ancient loom. 

108. Plain loom with hand shuttle. 

112. Hand loom and Scotch weaver at work. 

113. Plain loom. 

New International Encyclopedia. "Looms." 

fig. I. Hand loom. 
Nystrom, p. 25. Passage of the shuttle through the warp. 
214 a. Entering warp ends through reed. 
b. Examining warp threads. 
Olivier, p. 246. Weaving shop. 
Oppel, p. 467. Spinning und Webe im Handbetrieb im Siiden. 

685. Ein Webkeller im Toggenburg. 
Porter (183 1), p. 215. English hand loom (1832), p. 180. 
217. Fly shuttle. 182 

219. Warping mill. 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



Porter (1831), p. 221. Shuttle. (1832), p. 185 

228. Side elevation of ribbon loom. 
Rock, p. 34. Weaving and spinning in 1 5 century. 
Schams Tafel 4, fig. 36. Loom frame. 

35. Loom frame with extra beams for warp 

and cloth. 
37, 38. Another loom frame. 
5, fig. 47. Reed-batten. 

48 a. Batten with fly-shuttle. 

48 b. Batten with drop-box shuttle. 



Simmonds, p. 202. 



Tomlinson, fig 

Ure C), p. 256 

258 

259 
261 
262 
271 
Ure (2), p. 931 

931 
Walton, p. 16 

52 
68 
118 
124 
130 
147 



49-51. Shuttles. 

59, 60. Heddles, treadles and harness. 

Ancient Greek loom. 

204. German loom of 16 century. 

205. Warping machine. 

206. Loom of India. 

208. English loom with fly-shuttle. 
214. Movable shuttle-box apparatus. 

2305. The common loom. 

2313. Warping mill. 



Ancient Greek loom. 

Frankfort-on-Main weaver in 1568. 

Hand- warping for the muslin- weaver. 

Hindu weaver. 

Common fly-shuttle loom. 

Movable shuttle-box apparatus. 

Indoor loom of India. 

Old English loom. 
Roman weaving in Middle Ages. 
Japanese weaving. 
Hindu weaving. 
Peg warping. 
Warping. 

The loom that preceded the power loom. 
A handicraft weaver at her loom. 




Fig. 77. — Chinese Draw Loom 

The warp strands stretch from the cloth beam through the swinging reed-batten ; 
through the first heddle harness worked by treadles ; then through the free 
leashes worked by the drawboy above ; when they pass to the warp beam 
beyond the picture at the right. 



WEAVING TYPES 



185 



Watson, p. 19. Simple colonial loom. 

20. Japanese loom. 

2 1 . Four-harness hand loom. 

22. Colonial loom. 

23. Diagram of hand loom. 

24. Swedish loom. 

25. Diagram of working parts of loom. 

26. Fly-shuttle hand looin. 
Woolman and McGowan. 

p. 52. Hand loom. 



54 
55 
56 
57 
58 
60 
61 

63 
64 
67 



Healds. 

Heald shaft. 

Detail of harness. 

Temple. 

Throwing the shuttle through the shed. 

Raddle. 

Reed. 

Warping bars. 

Taking off the warp. 

Fly-shuttle. 



X 



DRAW LOOM 
Distinctive Characteristics 

First mechanism for elaborate figured weaving : one 
operating a compound system of shedding on the same 
warp strands ; the system applied to the Perfected 
hand loom. 

Weft device for shedding : two separate shedding systems 
with distinct functions — • a shaft mounting worked 
by treadles for forming the pattern edges ; and a 
drawboy mounting or harness with tails and simples 



1 86 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

worked by the drawboy for forming the texture of 
the web. 

D 




Fig. 79. — Diagram Showing Action of Two Harness Systems 

A, Work accomplished by first harness which outlines on a large scale the 
pattern. B, Work accomplished by second harness which breaks up this 
pattern in detail. 

Outline 

Examples : Chinese draw loom ; French draw loom. 
Implement — Draw loom. 

1. frame (29, 29e, i). 

2. beams (19, 20, 21c, 22, 22d). 1 Similar to the 

4. shuttle (27, 27d, e). \ Perfected 

5. batten (28d, 28f). • J hand loom. 

3. shedding mechanism (24, 26e, f). 

(i) front harness of shaft heddles with long eyes. 
(2) back harness of free heddling strings 
(managed by assistant), 
leashes with lingoes, hangers, mails, 
sleepers. 



WEAVING TYPES 



187 




comber board (hole board). 

necking cords. 

pulley box. 

tail cords. 

simple cords on which pattern is tied up. 



1 88 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Power — Hand and Foot, weaver (31, 31a, b). 

Hand, drawboy assistant. 
Process — Loom mounting. 

Warping, Beaming similar to the Perfected hand loom. 
Heddling, warp strands entered through both shedding 
systems : the shaf t-heddles and the free heddling 
strings. 
Wefting. 
Shedding. 

1. weaver with treadles operates shaf t-heddles for 

outlining pattern. 

2. drawboy adjusts string-heddles for web texture. 
Picking, Battening, as on Perfected hand loom. 

Economic Gain 

Comparison here is with the many-shaft loom of the 
previous type used in elaborate pattern weaving. 
In production : 

Less floor space needed for free leashes. 

A loss in production because of more elaborate fabric. 
In product : 

Elaborate pattern of fine texture. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

I Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving." 

1 Bell, T. F. " Jacquard weaving and designing." 

- Bushell, S. W. "Chinese art," II, 95. (Illustration.) 

- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustration.) 

2 Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Weaving machinery." 

I Ephraim, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik ausserhalb Eu- 
ropas." 



WEAVING TYPES 



189 




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^ ca 


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a^^ M 


— e: 


55 


K >. 


a 


< 


^ .n 


w 


^ - ^ 


fu 


>> cu S 





:=! 0.-0 




ng at 
the s 
ked th 
eashes. 





>. 


'S T, 


< 




<- 


;;o =^.2 




Q 


o-|g 


1 


•2 S S-g 




5 'S ts 3 


00 




fi 


S aS-g 




■^ 2 !:! 


^ 




Q cS <D 








bc^ C a 




throu 

rem t 

Whe 

1 dow 






al^ . 3 




=) ^ a 




i >.^° 




a ni <\i C^ 






igo 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 




WEAVING TYPES 191 

2 Gilroy, C. G. C) "Art of weaving." 

- Gilroy, C. G. {^) "History of silk, cotton, linen, wool." (Il- 

lustration.) 

- Heiden, M. " Handworterbuch der Textilkunde." (Illustra- 

tion.) 
I Hooper, L.(^) "Hand-loom weaving." 
I Hooper, L.(2) "Silk." 

1 Hooper, L. "The loom and spindle: past, present and 

future." 

(^) Journal of Royal Society of Arts, London, LX. 
('') Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914. 

- Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." (Illustration.) 

2 Marsden, R.(^) "Cotton weaving," 184. 

1 Mookerji, W. S. "Silk industries of Moorshedabad." Indian 

Jour. Art, V, p. 7. "Naksha loom." 

2 Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," IV, 140. 

- Pariset, E. "Industries de la soie." (Illustration.) 

3 Simmonds, P. L. "Cotton manufacture," II, 222. 
3 Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture," II, 281. 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

Barlow, p. 129. Diagram of shedding process. 

130. Healds. 

131. Mechanism of draw loom. 

132. Comber board. 

135. Mechanical drawboy. 

138. French draw loom for velvet figured damask. 
BeU, fig. 2. Draw loom with simples over weaver. 
■3. Draw loom harness. 
5. Mechanical drawboy. 
Butterworth, p. 178, fig. i. Primitive draw loom. 
Encyclopaedia Britannica. 

fig. 32. Chinese loom for figured weaving, 121 a.d. 
Ephraim, fig. 51. Chinese draw loom. 
Gilroy (}), fig. 63. Draw loom harness. 



192 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



Gilroy, C), fig. 64. Pulley box. 




65. Shedding process of draw loom. 




66. Comberboard. 


GUroy (2). 


Frontispiece. Chinese draw looms. 


Heiden, p. 


263. Draw loom factory. 


Hooper Q) 


p. 239. Drawboy machine. 




240. Details of drawboy. 




2 53 . Diagram of monture and harness, point repeat 




256. Comber repeat. 




258. Mechanism of the draw-loom. 




263. Draw-loom fork. 


Hooper (^) 


p. 74. Chinese draw-loom. 


Hoopel- (^) (^), fig. 35. Chinese silk- weavers' loom. 




44 


Chinese draw-loom. 




45 


Draw-loom diagrams. 




46 


Drawboy's fork. 




47 


Mechanical drawboy. 


Murphy, IV, p. 141. Draw-loom harness. 


Pariset, p. 


256. Chinese draw loom. 




281. Chinese draw loom. 




234. Beaming silk warp. 




235. Warping. 


Simmonds 


p. 223. Harness of draw loom. 


Ure, p. 28; 


5. Harness of draw loom. 



XI 



JACQUARD HAND LOOM 

Distinctive Characteristics 

The most universally employed mechanism for elaborate 
pattern making: a shedding attachment which sim- 
pHfies the complex mechanism of the Draw loom with 



WEAVING TYPES 



193 



its extensive tie-up and drawboy ; it was first adjusted 
to the hand loom and later to the power loom. 




Fig. 83. — ^Jacquard Hand Loom, 1804 

A hand loom mounted with a hook and needle harness worked by an endless 
band of pattern cards for elaborate pattern weaving. 

Weft device for shedding : an endless band of pattern 
cards worked with a hook and needle harness. 

Outline 

Example : Jacquard hand loom. 

Implement — Jacquard mechanism attached to hand loom. 

1. frame (29, 29e, i). 

2. beams (19, 20, 21, 21c, 22, 22d). j Similar to Per- 

4. shuttle (27, 27d, e, f). \ fected hand 

5. batten (28, 28d, f). J loom. 



194 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 




b'iG. 84. — Jacquard Mechanism 

A series of vertical hooks {H) connect with the heddles of the loom. These are 
raised according to a pattern punctured on pattern cards (PC) by a series 
of horizontal needles (N) attached to them at their points of crossing. 
When the pattern cards press back certain horizontal needles they carry 
the hooks with them beyond the griff (G). This allows the grifi to rise 
and carry up the remaining hooks which raise the heddles. 



WEAVING TYPES 



shedding apparatus 
placed on top 
of loom to 
take the 
place of the 
drawboy and 
pulley-box 
(24,26e,f,g). 
(i) shaft-heddles. 
(2) string-heddles. 
endless chain 
of perforated 
pattern 
cards, 
revolving prism 
or cylinder 
which swings. 
series of hori- 
zontal needles 
with eyelets, 
n-eedle board, 
series of verti- 
cal hookspass- 
ing through 
needles and 
controlled by 
them, 
bottom board, 
griff, 
necking cords. 




A 



Fig. 85. — The Jacquard 
AT Work 

Action of horizontal needle 
on vertical hook when it 
is pushed back by pattern 
card. The needle carries 
the hook off the griff. 



196 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

leash, or leash strings with mails and lingoes. 

comber board. 
Power — Hand and Foot (31, 31a). 
Process — Shedding. 

1. pattern card passed over cylinder and pressed 

against needles. 

2. blank spaces on cards push back certain needles, 

giving attached hooks an incKnation. 

3. griff rises, carrying up hooks remaining vertical. 

4. rising hooks carry up leash cord with warp strand 

it controls. 

5. cyHnder bearing pattern card moves away and 

turns one fourth revolution, while springs 
return needles to normal position. 

Economic Gain 

In production : 

Less time for simpler " tie-up " of shedding mechanism, 

More rapid weaving possible. 

Less floor space needed. 

One worker instead of two. 
In product : 

Still more elaborate pattern. 

Greater width of web. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

1 Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving." 

2 Beaumont, R.^) "Wool manufacture." 

2 Beaumont, R.O "Woollen and worsted." 

1 Bell, T. F. "Jacquard weaving and designing." 

2 Brockett, P. L. "Silk industry in the United States," 109. 



WEAVING TYPES 1 97 

- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustration.) 
3 Cowan, J. L. "Story of silk." Scientific American Supp., 

April 23, 19 10. 

- Dooley, W. H. "Textiles." (Illustration.) 

I Encyclopaedia Britannica, "Weaving, Industrial technology." 

- Foreman, S. E. "Stories of useful inventions." (Illustration.) 
I Fox, T. W. "The mechanism of weaving," 129-145. 

- Gibbs, C. "Household textiles." (Illustration.) 

3 Gilroy, C. G.(i) "Art of weaving." 

4 Hooper, L. (2) "Silk." 

1 Hooper, L. "Loom and spindle." 

(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX. 
(*) Rept. Smithsonian Institution, 1914. 

- Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." (Illustration.) 

2 Marsden, R.(2) "Cotton weaving," 148. 

I Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," V, 54-60. 
I New International Encyclopedia. "Looms." 

- Nystrom, P. H. "Textiles." (Illustration.) 

- Pariset, E. "Industries de la sole." (Illustration.) 
I Porter, G. R.(0 "Silk manufacture," 1831, 245. 

I Porter, G. R.(^) Same as above but 1832 edition, 201. 

- Schams, J. "Handbuch der Weberei." (Illustration.) 

5 Walton, P. "Story of textiles," 97. 

I Warden, A. J. "Linen, ancient and modern," 707. 
I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

Barlow, fig. 130-131. Action of hooks. 

140-142. Action of cylinder. 

143. Jacquard loom (hand loom). 
Beaumont Q), fig. 87-91. Jacquard machine and parts. 
Beaumont (^) 242-247. Jacquard machine and parts, 

Brockett, p. 108. The Jacquard machine. 
Butterworth, p. 178, fig. 2. Jacquard hand loom. 

fig. 4. Jacquard power loom, 1842. 



198 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Cowan, p. 264, 265. Jacquard loom. 

265. Warping machine. 
Dooley, p. 187. Jacquard silk loom. 

Encyclopaedia Britannica, fig. 27. Diagram of Jacquard harness. 
Foreman, p. 121. Jacquard loom. 
Fox, fig. 58. Single lift Jacquard machine. • 
Gibbs, p. 35. Jacquard power loom. 
Hooper (^) {*), fig. 49. Jacquard machine. 

50. Sections of Jacquard machine. 

51. Hooks and needles. 

53. Jacquard cylinder and cards. 
Lindner, p. 154. Jacquard machine and harness. 
Magazines. See Magazine Illustration. 
Marsden, p. 151. Jacquard harness. 

153. Jacquard harness for handkerchiefs. 
Murphy, V, p. 56. Jacquard mechanism. 
86. Harness of Jacquard. 
86. Pressure Jacquard weaving mill. 
New International Encyclopedia. "Looms." 

fig. 4. Jacquard attachment. 
Nystrom, p. 28. Jacquard loom. 
Pariset, p. 271. Hooks and needles. 
274. Jacquard machine. 
Porter 0), p. 246. Jacquard harness (^) 202. 

247. Needle 202. 

248. Cylinder 203. 
248. Pattern card 204. 
250. Mechanism in action 205. 

Schams, Taf. 19. Jacquard loom and loom parts. 
Woolman and McGowan. 

p. 73. Jacquard power loom. 

75. Jacquard harness. 

76. Cylinder and pattern card. 

77. Lacing of cards. 



WEAVING TYPES 

XII 
PLAIN POWER LOOM 



199 




Fig. 86. — Cajrtwright's First Power Loom, 1785 
A loom with vertical warp. The web wound gradually as it was woven. 



The 



shuttle was propelled mechanically through the long trough-shaped form 
extending out at the sides. 

Distinctive Characteristics 

First weaving machine : a loom run by power and so 
adjusted that beams, heddles, shuttles and batten 
work automatically and in unison. 



200 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



Warp devices : cloth and warp beams that automatically 
" take on " cloth and " let off " warp. 

Weft devices: shaft-heddles that automatically open 
sheds ; shuttles that automatically insert weft and a 
reed-batten that automatically beats up weft. 




Fig. 87. — Cartwright's Second Power Loom, 1786 

A frame of yam bobbins served in place of a warp beam. The lathe or slay 
is reversed to oscillate from below. 

Outline 

Example : Roberts' power loom. 
Implement — power loom. 

1. frame, solid square structure of iron (29, 29e, i). 

2. beams. 

(i) warp beam with pulley, cord and weight 
attachment for automatic "let off" (19, 
20, 21, 21c, 22, 22d, e). 



WEAVING TYPES 



20I 



(2) warp roller. 

(3) cloth beam with toothed wheel, pinion and 

ratchet wheel for automatic " take on." 

(4) breast beam. 

heddle-shaf ts suspended from pulleys and worked 
from below by tappets and levers. (Other 
looms may use dobbie) (24, 25, 26e). 




Fig. 



Working Parts of Power Loom 



Left, doth beam, breast beam. Center, reed-batten oscillating from below ; 
four shaft-heddles two down two up opening shed. Right, warp beam. 



4- 
5- 

6. 

7- 



bobbin-shuttle thrown by levers (27, 27d, e, f). 
batten with shuttle-race, shuttle-boxes and 
pickers is swung from below (28, 28d, g). 
driving gear, 
stop motion devices. 



202 



YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 



Power — Steam (31, 31c). 

Process — Loom mounting (30, 30e). 

Warping, Beaming — ■ by mill and frame. 

Heddling — warp entered by hand. 




Fig. 89. — • Roberts' Loom, Side Elevation, 1830 
The warp passes from warp beam (/), over roller (K), through heddles (L), 
through reed of batten (H) ; here the cloth continues over breast beam and 
is rolled upon cloth beam (A''). 



WEAVING TYPES 203 

Wefting. 

Shedding, Picking, Battening. 

These processes proceed as in the Drop-box-shuttle 
hand loom, but automatically and in uni- 
son, with an additional automatic beam 
motion, and stop weaving motion. 

Economic Gain 

In production : 

Introduction of steam power. 

Automatic and continuous shedding, picking, batten- 
ing and " letting-off " and " taking-on " motions. 
In product : 

Uniformly even and perfect web. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

- Baines, E. "Cotton manufacture." (Illustration.) 
I Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving." 

I Beaumont, R-C) "Wool manufacture." (Modern loom.) 
I Beaumont, R.(^) "Woollen and worsted." (Modern loom.) 

- Brooks, E. C. "Story of cotton." 

- Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." (Illustra- 

tion.) 

- Chamberlain, J. F. "How we are clothed." (Illustration.) 

- Dooley, W. H. "Textiles." (Illustration.) 

- Draper, G. 0. "Labor saving looms." (Illustration.) 
I Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Weaving machinery." 

- Falcot, P. "Encyclopedic et methodique de la fabrication des 

tissus." (Illustration.) 

- Farrar, F. A. " Factories and great industries." . (Illustration.) 
4 Foreman, S. E. "Stories of usefiil inventions." 

I Fox, T. W. "The mechanism of weaving." 
I Gilroy, C. G.Q) "Art of weaving," p. 345. 



204 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

3 Heylin, H. B. "The cotton weaver's hand book." 

- Hooper, L. "Loom and spindle." (Illustration.) 

(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX. 
{*) Report Smithsonian Institution, 1914. 

- Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weber ei." (Illustration.) 
I Marsden, R.(2) "Cotton weaving." 

I Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," IV. 

I New International Encyclopedia. "Looms." 

I Simmonds, P. L. "Cotton manufacture." 

I Tomlinson, C. " Cyclopedia useful arts," II. "Weaving." 

I Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture." 

- Walton, P. "The story of textiles." (Illustration.) 

I Warden, A. J. "Linen trade, ancient and modern," 712. 

- Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." 

I Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles," 70. 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

Baines, p. 234. Power loom. 

239. Power loom weaving. 
Barlow, p. 230. The first power loom. 
232. Barbar's loom. 
236. Cartwright's second loom. 
239, 240. Horrocks's loom. 
245 a. Almond's loom. 
245 b. Radcliff's loom. 
Beaumont (}), p. 207. Shedding motion. Tappet loom. 
216. Shedding, vertical lever Dobbie. 
Beaumont (^), p. 331. Combined warping, sizing, and beaming 
machine. 

394. Shedding motion. Tappet loom. 
406. Shedding, vertical lever Dobbie. 
423. Shedding, ordinary Dobbie. 
Brooks, p. 57. Modern loom. 
Butterworth, p. 176, figs. 5-8. Power loom. 
Chamberlain, p. 77. The woolen loom. 



WEAVING TYPES 205 

Dooley, p. 112. Fancy cotton loom. 
Draper, p. 28. Roberts' loom. 
Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Weaving." 

fig. 28. Vertical section of power loom. 
Falcot, PI. Ill, IV. Warping. 
V, VI. Beaming. 
VIII. Preserving sheds. 
Farrar, p. 21. Early power loom. 
Gilroy 0), pp. 346, 347, 348. Roberts' loom. 
Heylin, p. 5. Ready for heddling. 
8. Tappet loom. 
II. Tappet shedding. 
Hooper (^) (^), fig. 58. Cartwright's second machine loom. 



Horrocks's machine loom. 

Almond's loom. 

Austin's machine loom. 

Modern silk loom. 

Whalley's circular machine loom. 

Section of WhaUey's loom. 



59- 
60. 
61. 
62. 

63. 
64. 
Lindner, p. 145. Loom room. 

147. Power loom. 

148, 149, 150. Diagrams of power looms. 

151. Shaft apparatus, Chain for shaft working. 

152. Crompton's shaft apparatus. 

153. Power loom. 

Marsden (^), p. 61. Cartwright's first power loom, 1785. 

64. Cartwright's second loom and details, 1876. 
74, 75, 76. Roberts' loom. 
78. Roberts' loom shuttle. 
Murphy, IV, pp. 172, 173. Sharp and Roberts' power loom. 

174. Complete power loom. 
New International Encyclopedia. "Looms." 
fig. 2. Power loom. 
3. Northrop loom. 
Simmonds, pp. 230, 231, 232. Sharp and Roberts' power loom. 



2o6 YARN AND CLOTH MAKING 

Simmonds, p. 233. Power loom shuttle. 
Tomlinson, fig. 2321. Working parts of power loom. 
Ure, pp. 292, 293, 294. Sharp and Roberts' power loom. 

296. Power loom shuttle. 
Walton, p. 92. Cartwright's loom. 

238. A modern weave room. 
244. Modern automatic looms. 
Watson, p. 68. Plain power loom. 
Woolman and McGowan. 
p. 68. Power loom. 

79. Power loom with drop boxes and dobby attachment. 



APPENDIX A 

GENERAL BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Andree, E. "A naturalist in the Guianas." 1904. 
Baines, E. " Cotton manufacture." 1835. 
Bancroft, H. H. "Native races," I, II. 1874. 
Banerjei, N. N.^) "Woollen fabrics of Bengal." 1899. 
Banerjei, N. N.(2) "Cotton fabrics of Bengal." 1898. 
Banerjei, N. N.(^) Same as above in Journal Indian Art, 

VIII. 
Barker, A. F. "Textiles." 1910. 

Barlow, A. "History and principles of weaving." 1879.- 
Bartlett, J. R. "Personal narratives," II. 1854. 
Beaumont, R.C) "Wool manufacture." 1890. 
Beaumont, R.(^) "WooUen and worsted." 1915. 
Bell, T. F. " Jacquard weaving and designing." 1895. 
Blount, Mrs. G. "The story of a home spun web." 1913. 
Boas, F.(^) "Indians of British Columbia." Rept. British Asso. 

Adv. Science, 1890. 
Boas, F.(2) "Kwakiutl Indians." Mem. American Museum, V, 

Pt. II. 
Braulik, A. " Altagyptische Weberei." Dingler's polytech. 

Journal, No. 311. (Illustration.) 
Brockett, P. L. "Silk industry in the United States." 1876. 
Brooks, E. C. "Story of cotton." 1911. 
Brooks, C. P. "Cotton." 1898. (Illustration.) 
Briiggemann, H. "Die Spinnerei." 1899. 

Burton, F. R. '-'Ultima Thule ; or, A summer in Iceland." 1875. 
BusheU, S. W. " Chinese art," II. (Illustration.) 
Butterworth, B. "The growth of industrial art." 1892. 

207 



2o8 APPENDIX A 

Cailliaud, F. "Recherchessurles arts et metiers." 1831. (Illus- 
tration.) 

Carter, H. R. "Modern flax, hemp and jute spinning." 1907. 

Carter, H. R. . "Spinning and twisting long vegetable fibers," 
1904. 

Carus, P. "Chinese life and customs." 1907. (Illustration.) 

Cavendish, A. C. J. "Korea and the sacred white mountain." 
1894. (Illustration.) 

Chamberlain, J. F. "How we are clothed." 1904. (Illustration.) 

Champlin, J. D. "Young folks' cyclopedia of common things." 
1908. 

ChampoUion, J. F. "Monuments de I'Egypte," IV. 1835. 
(Illustration.) 

Chapman, S. J. "Cotton industry and trade." 1904. 

Chase and Clow. "Stories of industries," II. 1909. (Illustra- 
tion.) 

Clapham, J. H. "The woollen and worsted industries." 1907. 
(Illustration.) 

Cole, F. C. "Bagobos of Davas gulf." Philippine Jour. Science. 
D. 6, 191 1. (Illustration.) 

Coles, F. R. "Scottish spindles." Reliquary and lUus. Archae- 
ologist, V, (Illustration.) 

Coomaraswamy, A. K. "Mediaeval Sinhalese art." 1908. 

Cowan, J. L. "Story of silk." Scientific American Sup., April 
23, 1910. 

Crawford, M. D. C.(i) "Peruvian textiles." Am. Museum An- 
thropological Papers, XII, 3. 

Crawford, M. D. C.{^) "Master weavers of the desert empire." 
Harpers, July, 1916. 

Cyclopedia of textile work. 1907. 

Davies, N. de G. "Five Theban tombs." 1913. (Illustration.) 

Dellenbaugh, F. S. "North Americans of yesterday." 1901. 

Dewar, J. C. "Voyage to Nyanza, Salomon Islands." (Illus- 
tration.) 

Dooley, W. H. "Textiles." 1910. 



APPENDIX A 209 

Draper, G. O. "Labor saving looms." 1907. (Illustration.) 
Du Chaillu, P. B. "A journey to Ashangoland, W. Africa." 1867. 
Ducousso, G. "L'industrie de la sole en Syria et au Liban." 

1913. (Illustration.) 
Earl, A. M. "Home life in colonial days." 1913. 
Edge-Partington. "Album of weapons, tools and ornaments of 

natives of Pacific Island," I. 1890. (Illustration.) 
Emery, M. S. "How to enjoy pictures." 1898. (Illustration.) 
Emmons, G. T. "The Chilkat blanket." American Museum, 

Mem. III. 
Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Spinning," "Weaving," "Cotton 

manufacture," "Woolen and worsted." 
Ephraim, H. "Entwicklung der Webetechnik ausserhalb Eu- 

ropas." Mus. fiir Volkerkunde zu Leipzig, Band I, Heft I. 

(Illustration.) 
Erman, A. "Life in ancient Egypt." 1894. 
Falcot, P. "Encyclopedia et methodique de la fabrication des 

tissus." 1844. (Illustration.) 
Farrar, F. A. "Factories and great industries." 1916. (Illus- 
tration.) 
Foreman, S. E. "Stories of useful inventions." 1915. 
Forrer, R. ReaUexikon. "Webstuhl," "Webstuhlgewicht," 

"Gewebe," "Spindln." 1907. (Illustration.) 
Fox, T. W. "Mechanism of weaving." 1900. 
Garnett, A. "Hand spinning." 1896. 
Garstang, J. "Burial customs of ancient Egypt." 1907. 
General guide to American Museum Natural History. 19 16. 

(Illustration) . 
Gibbs, C. "Household textiles." 191 2. 
Gibbs, G. "Tribes of west Washington and northwest Oregon." 

Contributions to N. A. Ethnology, I. 
Gilroy, C. G.(i) "Art of weaving." 1844. 
Gilroy, C. G.{^) "History of silk, cotton, linen, wool." 1845. 
Goddard, P. E.(^) "Indians of the Southwest." American Mus. 

Handbook 2, 1913. 



2IO APPENDIX A 

Goddard, P. E.(2) "Navajo blankets." American Mus. Journal, 
Nov. 1910. 

Gosse, A. B. "The civilization of ancient Egyptians." 191 5. 
(Illustration.) 

Guest, R. "Cotton-manufacture." 1823. 

Guide to Anthropological collections, Provincial Mus., Victoria, 
B. C. 1909. 

Hamilton, A. "Maori art." New Zealand Institute. 1901. 

Handbook of American Indians. "Weaving." Bureau Arn. Eth- 
nology, Bull. 30, II. 

Handbook of ethnographical collections, British Museum. 1910. 

Heiden, M. " Handworterbuch der Textilkunde." 1904. (Il- 
lustration.) 

Heylin, H. B. "The cotton weaver's handbook." 1916. 

Hitchcock, R. "The Ainos of Yezo." National Mus. Report, 
1890. 

Hoffman, W. J. "The Menomonee Indians." 14 Rept. Bureau 
Am. Ethnology. 

HoUister, U. S. "The Navajo and his blanket." 1903. 

Holmes, W. H.(i) "Prehistoric textile fabrics in U. S." 3 Rept. 
Bureau Am. Ethnology. 

Holmes, W. H.(^) "Prehistoric textile art of eastern U. S." 13 
Rept. Bureau Am. Ethnology. 

Holmes, W. H.(^) "Textile fabrics of ancient Peru." Report 
Bu. Am. Ethnology. 1889. 

Hooper, 'L.Q) "Hand-loom weaving." 1910. 

Hooper, L.(2) "Silk." 1911. 

Hooper, L. " The loom and spindle : past, present and future." 
(^) Journal Royal Society of Arts, LX. 
(*) Report Smithsonian Institution. 1914. 

Hooper, L.(^) "Technique of Greek and Roman weaving." 
Burlington Mag. 18, 191 1. 

Horner collection, Belfast Municipal Museum. "Spinning 
Wheels." 1909. 

Homiman Museum handbook, 11. 



APPENDIX A 211 

Hunter, J. A. "Wool." 1912. 

Im Thurn, E. F. "Indians of British Guiana." 1883. 

James, G. W. "Indian blankets and their makers." 1914. 

James, J. "History of worsted manufacture." 1857. 

Jannasch, R. "Die Textilindustrie bei Ur- und Naturvolkern." 
Berliner GeseUschaft fiir Anthropologie, XX. s. 88. 

Jochelson, W. "The Koryak." American Mus. Mem. X. 

Journal of Indian Art. 

VIII, Banerjei, N. N. "Cotton fabrics of Bengal." 
X, Brandon, B. A. "Woolen fabrics of Bombay." 
X, Dewar, F. "Silk fabrics, Central Provinces." 
X, Edwards, S. M. "Silk fabrics of Bombay." 
X, Enthoven, R. E. " Cotton fabrics of Bombay." 
I, Gupte, B. A. "Thana silks." 
X, Hardiman, J. P. " SHk of Burma." 
V, Mookerji, N. G. "Silk industries of Moorshedabad." 
X, Samman, H. F. "Cotton of Assam." 
X, Silberrad, C. A. "Cotton of Northwestern Provinces." 

Kane, P. "Wanderings." 1859. 

Keller, F. " The lake dwellers of Switzerland." 1878. 

Kimakowicz-Winnicki. "Spinn- und Webewerkzeuge in vorge- 
schichtlicher Zeit Europas." Darstellungen iiber friih und 
vorgeschichtliche Kultur-Kunst und Volkerentwicklung, 2 
Heft. (Illustration.) 

Kissell, M. L.O) "Aboriginal weaving in America." Rept. 
Cotton Manuf. Asso. 1910. (Illustration.) 

Kissell, M. L.(2) "A new type of spinning in North America." 
American Anthropologist, 18, No. 2, April, 1916. 

Kissell, M. L.(^) "Fabrics from primitive looms." (In prep- 
aration.) 

Klose, H. "Togo." 1899. (Illustration.) 

Lepsius, K. R. "Denkmaler." 1859-1860. (Illustration.) 

Lindner, G. "Spinnerei und Weberei." 1913. 

Manchester, H. H. "The story of silk and Cheney silks." 1916. 
(Illustration.) 



212 APPENDIX A 

Marsden, R.(^) "Cotton spinning." 1891. 

Marsden, R.(2) "Cotton weaving." 1905. 

Mason, O. T.(i) "Origin of inventions." 1901. 

Mason, O. T.(^) "Woman's share in primitive culture." 1894. 

Mason, O. T.(^) "A primitive frame for weaving narrow fabrics." 
Rapt. Nat. Mus., 1899. 

Mason, O. T.('*) Same article in Scientific American Sup. 51, sup. 
1324. 

Maspero, G.C) "Manual of Egyptian archaeology." 1902. 

Maspero, G.(^) "Dawn of civilization in Egypt and Chaldaea." 
1894. (Illustration.) 

Matthews, W. "Navajo weavers." 3 Rept. Bureau Am. Eth- 
nology. 

McLaren, W. S. B. "Spinning woollen and worsted." 1893. 

Megraw, R. H. "Textiles and the origin of their names." 1906. 
(Illustration.) 

MiU, J. "History of British India," i edition, V. I ; 2 edition, 
V. II ; 4 edition, V. 181 7-1848. 

Miller, M. L. "The Mangyans of Mindora." Philippine Jour. 
Science D. 7, 191 2. 

Montelius, O. "Civilization of Sweden in heathen times." Tr, 
1888. 

Montgomery, J. "Cotton spinning." 1836. 

Morris and Wilkinson. "Elements of cotton spinning."' 1897. 

Mundorf, E. "Die Appretur der WoU- und Halbwollwaren." 
1912. 

Miintz, E.(i) "Short history of tapestry." Tr. 1885. (Illus- 
tration.) 

Muntz, E.(2) "La tapisserie." 1883. 

Miintz, E.(3) "Tapisseries." 1890. (Illustration.) 

Murphy, W. S. "The textile industries," II, III, IV, V. 191 2. 

Nasmith, J. "Student's cotton spinning." 1896. 

Nelson, E. W. "The Eskimo." 18 Rept. Bu. American Eth- 
nology, Pt. I. 

Newberry, P. C. "Beni Hassan," I, II. 1893. (Illustration.) 



APPENDIX A 213 

Newberry, P. C. " El Bersheh," I. 1895. (Illustration.) 

New International Encyclopedia. "Looms." 

Nystrom, P. H. "Textiles." 1916. 

Olivier, L. "La Tunisie." 1899. (Illustration.) 

Oppel, A. "Die Baumwolle." 1902. (Illustration.) 

Pariset, E. "Industries de la sole." 1890. (Illustration.) 

Paiilitschke, P. " Ethnographic Nordost-Afrikas." 1893. (Illus- 
tration.) 

Peake, R. J. "Cotton." 1910. 

PenhaUow, D. P. "Fabrication of Aino cloth." Scientific Am. 
Sup., No. 244. 

Pepper, G. H. "The making of the Navajo blanket." Every- 
body's Mag., Jan. 1902. 

Perrot and Chipiez. "A history of art in ancient Egypt." Tr. 
1883. 

Pictorial Gallery of Arts, I. (Illustration.) 

Pinckerton, J. "Voyages and travels," I. 1808. 

Porter, G. R. " Silk manufacture." 1831, 1832. 

Powell, B. H. "Handbook of manufactures and arts of Punjab." 
1872. 

Priestman, H. "Principles of cotton spinning." 1908. 

Radcliffe, J. W. "Manufacture of woollen and worsted yarn." 

1913- 
Ratzel, F. "History of mankind," II. Tr. 1896-98. (Illustration.) 
Reliquary and Illustrated Archaeologist, V, 80. 
Revoil, G. "Reise in Lande der Benadir, Somali und Bajun." 

Globus. 47. (Illustration.) 
Rock, D. "Textile fabrics." 1876. (Illustration.) 
Rohn, G. "Die Spinnerei." 1910. (Illustration.) 
Ronchaud, L. de. "La tapisserie." 1884. (Illustration.) 
Rosellini, I. "Monumenti," II. 1834. (Illustration.) 
Roth, H. L.(i) "Ancient Egyptian and Greek looms." Bankfield 

Museum Notes, Second series, No. 2. 
Roth, H. L.(^) "Studies in primitive looms." Part I. Bank- 
field Museum Notes, Second series. No. 8. 



214 APPENDIX A 

Roth, H. L.(') "Studies in primitive looms." Part II. Bank- 
field Museum Notes, Second series, No. 9. 

Roth, H. L.C) " Natives of Sarawak." 1896. 

Russell, F. "The Pima Indians." 26 Report Bureau Am. 
Ethnology. 

Schams, J. "Handbuch der Weberei." 1900. 

Schurtz, H. " Urgeschichte der Kultur." 1900. (Illustration.) 

Simmonds, P. L. "lire's cotton manufacture." 1861. 

Smith, W. Dictionary Greek and Roman antiquities. "Tela." 
1870. 

Smith, Wayte and Marindin. Diet. Greek and Roman antiquities. 
"Tela." 1891. 

Starr, L. B. "Ancient and modern looms." Art and Decoration, 
1911, 2, 208. 

Stevenson, M. "Zuni Indians." 23 Rept. Bureau American 
Ethnology. 

Swan, J. G. "Indians of Cape Flattery." Smithsonian Contribu- 
tions, XVI. 

Taggart, W. S. "Cotton spinning." 1911. 

Teit, J. "Shuswap Indians." American Museum, Mem. IV, Pt. 
VII. 

Thomson, W. G. "History of tapestry." 1906. 

Thornley, T. "Cotton spinning." 1901. 

Todd, J. A. "The world's cotton crop." 1915. 

Tomlinson, C. Cyclopedia useful arts, II. "Weaving." 1854. 

"Tops, A new American industry." Arlington MiUs, Lawrence, 
Mass. 1898. (Illustration.) 

Tylor, E. B. "Anthropology." 1904. 

Ure, A. "Cotton manufacture." 1836. 

Ure, A. Dictionary arts, manufactures, mines, II. "Weaving." 
1862. 

Vickermann, C. "Woolen spinning." 1894. 

Walton, P. "Story of textiles." 1912. 

Walton, W. "History of cotton of Bombay Presidency." 1880. 

Warden, A. J. "Linen trade, ancient and modern." 1864. 



APPENDIX A 215 

Watson, J. "Art of weaving." 1864. 

Watson, J. F. " Textile manufactures and costumes of people of 
India." 1866. 

Watson, K. "Textiles and clothing." 1907, 1916. 

Weeden, W. B. "The art of weaving." Rept. Am. Historical 
Association. 1902. 

Wilkinson, F. "Story of the cotton plant." 1899. 

Wilkinson, J. G. "Ancient Egyptians." 1837, 1879. (Illus- 
tration.) 

Willoughby, C. C. "New type of ceremonial blanket." Am. 
Anthropologist, XII, No. i. 

Woolman and McGowan. "Textiles." 1913. 

Worcester, D. C. "Non-Christian tribes of northern Luzon." 
Philippine Journal of Science, I. 1906. 

Zipser, J. "Raw textile materials." 1901. 



APPENDIX B 

MAGAZINE ILLUSTRATIONS 

Compiled with the assistance of Anna la Tourette Blauvelt. 
Note. — i = best examples. F = famous paintings. 

Spinning I 

National Geographical Magazine. 
I V. 23, Sept. 1912, p. 914. Young Bontoc Igorot girl spin- 
ning. 

Spinning III 
National Geographical Magazine. 

V. 15, Aug. 1904, p. 345. Indian woman spinning, S. W. 

Mexico. 
Indian woman spinning, Mound 

builders. 
Girl spinning, Tinguianes, Phil- 
ippines. 
Woman of Tiahuanoco, Peru. 
Native spinner of Tunis. 
Lacondone women spinning 
cotton. 





P- 345- 




16, Apr. 1905, p. 163. 




19, Sept. 1908, p. 601. 


I 


22, Sept. 1911, p. 804. 


I 


25, June 1914, p. 628. 



Everybody's Magazine. 

V. 6, Jan. 1902, p. 38. 
Records of the Past, 
slide and print, No. 4500, 



Navaho woman spinning. 

Indian woman spinning and 
weaving. 



216 



APPENDIX B 



217 



Spinning IV 

F Angelo, Michael. 



F Millet, Jean Frangois. 



Records of the Past. 

slide and print, No. 379. 

National Geographical Mag- 
azine. 
V. 17, Mar. 1906, p. 145. 
I 19, Nov. 1908, p. 768. 

20, Aug. 1909, p. 780. 
I 25, Mar. 1914, p. 299. 

25, Mar. 1914, p. 313. 

I 28, Oct. 1915, p. 370. 

28, Nov. 191 5, p. 473. 

30, Nov. 1916, p. 107. 

30, Sept. 1916, p. 198. 

31, June 1917, p. 563. 
F Simmons, Edward. 



The Three Fates. 

orig. Pitti Palace, Florence. 

repro. 375 Brown's Famous 
Pictures. 
The Spinner. 

562 Cosmos Picture Co. 

562 University Prints. 
Girl Spinning. 

1362 Brown's. 

505 Perry Pictures. 

Gypsy spinning as she goes 
along the road, Asia Minor. 



Slave spinning. 

Bulgarian woman spinning as 

she walks to town. 
Cretan woman spinning. 
A spinning woman. Holy Land 

(colored). 
Man spinning in Jerusalem 

(colored). 
Roumanian woman with spindle. 
Distaff spinner of Gourdin, 

France. 
Domestic scene, Sardinia, So. 

Europe. 
Roumanian girls making thread. 
The Hungarian gypsy mother. 
The Three Fates. 

New York Criminal Court 
House. 

Copley Prints. 



2l8 



APPENDIX B 



Underwood and Underwood. 

Stereograph and slide, Nega- Home duties of the Hopi In- 

tive, No. 6178. dians, Ariz. 

F Unknown Artist, Dutch, Old Woman holding distaflf. 

XVII Cent. Soule Art Co. 



Spinning V 

F Breton, Mme. Demont. 



Country Life. 
July 1903, p. 199. 

I Dec. 1905, p. 864. 
Craftsman. 

Jan. 1902, p. 47. 



The Divine Apprentice. 
Salon, 1897. 

L'lUustration, Apr. 1879. 
1669, Brown's. 

Product of Kentucky mountain 

spinner. 
Irish peasant spinnet. 

Girl spinning on wool wheel, 
Kentucky. 



An Aran woman and her wheel. 



Harper's Magazine. 

May 1910, p. 894. 
International Studio 

V. 58, Apr. 1916, p. LVII. Types of spinning wheels. 
Illustrated London News Supplement. 



Oct. 20, 1855, p. 474. 
Keystone View Co. 

Stereograph, No. 14752. 

13496. 

13497- 
F Liebermann, Max. 



Spinning. 

Native silk spinning plant, 

Japan. 
Carding and spinning wool, 

Telemarken. 
Spinning in Telemarken. 
Flax spinning in Laren. 

National Gallery, Berlin. 

Century Mag. frontispiece, 
July 1905. 



APPENDIX B 219 

Mcintosh Stereopticon Co. 

Slide No. E 1047.9. Tibetan man spinning wool. 

Modern Mexico. 

July 1904, p. 21. Mexican spinner. 

National Geographical Magazine. 

V. 16, Apr. 1905, p. 182. Ilocanos spinning cotton, Phil- 

ippines. 
17, Mar. 1906, p. 145. Moorish woman at spinning 

wheel. 
20, Feb. 1909, p. 190. Spinner of Asia Minor. 

22, Aug. 191 1, p. 711. Dyak girl spinning, Borneo. 

Records of the Past. 

slide and print, No. 11027. Silk spinning. 
Scientific American Supplement. 

V. 40, Oct. 1895, sup. no. Fig. 5. Spinning the tussah. 

1033 

53, June 1902, sup. no. Fig. 8. Spinning istle by hand. 

1382 
F Velasquez, Diego Rodriguez. Tapestry weavers (las Hilan- 

deras) . 
Mus. of Prado, Madrid. 
664 Perry. 

Rhine Prints (colored). 
Spinning VI 

F Brekelenkam, Quiryn. Camp, the spinner. 

Metropolitan Museum, N. Y. 
Met. Mus. Photo. 
F Barse, George R. Priscilla spinning. 

1444 Brown's. 
Craftsman. 
V. I, Jan. 1902, p. 25. • Flax wheel and loom from old 

cut. 
p. 29. Flax wheels. 

F Davey, Randall. The courtship (J. Alden and 

Priscilla) . 
1634 Brown's. 



220 



APPENDIX B 



F Gay, Walter. The spinners (les fileuses), 

Irish spinner. 

Hull House Mus. postals, 
Chicago. 
Illustrated London News Supplement. 
Aug. 26, 1905, p. 305, 

Figs. 4, 5- 
Dec. 2, 1871, p. 533. 
International Studio. 

V. 58, Apr. 1916, p. LVIII. 
F Maes, Nicholaas. 



F Marr, Carl. 



F McEwen, Walter. 



Spinning. 

A winter evening in the Tyrol. 

Types of spinning wheels. 
The old spinner. 

Museum Amsterdam. 

750 Brown's. 
Gossip. 

MetropoHtan Mus. N. Y. 

Copley. 

103 Emery. 
Telling ghost stories. 

112 Emery. 



Mcintosh Stereopticon Co. 
Slide No. E 1047.8. 



French peasant spinner. 



National Geographical Magazine. 



I V. 24, Aug. 1913, p. 933. 

26, Sept. 1914, p. 206. 

p. 292. 

I 28, Nov. 1915, p. 417. 

F Rembrandt, van Ryn. 



F Romney, George. 



Underwood and Underwood. 
Stereograph and slide neg. 
no. 6572. 



A Swiss wheel and distaff. 
A spinner of Britanny. 
Spinning bee near Berlin. 
Aged spinner of France. 
Old woman spinning. 

Albertina Gallery, Vienna. 

Harper's Black and White 
Prints. 
At the spinning wheel (portrait 
of Lady Hamilton) . 

Artistic photo. Co. 

Spinning, Breton home. 



APPENDIX B 



221 



Spinning IX 

Scientific American Supplement. 
V. 31, Jan. 1891, sup. no. Crompton's mule in Chadwick's 



785. 

Weaving II 

Art and Decoration. 
I V. I, Mar. 1911, p. 208. 

The Studio. 
I autumn 1910, fig. 345. 

Weaving IV 
Leslie's Weekly. 
Aug. 18, 1904, p. 153. 
July 28, 1904, p. 83. 
Keystone View Co. 

Stereograph, No. 1005 1. 

Weaving V 

F AUen, Frances and Mary. 

F Brush, George de Forest. 



Country Life in America. 
Feb. 1906, p. 413. 
p. 414. 
Everybody's Magazine. 
I V. 6, Jan. 1902, p. 35. 

I P- 39- 

I p. 40. 

I p. 41. 

Mcintosh Stereopticon Co. 
Slide No. E 1047.14. 



Museum, Boston. 

Ancient and modern looms. 
Weighted warp loom. 



Igorote, weaving blanket. 
Igorote, weaving cloth. 

Weaving hemp into cloth, native 
method, Philippines. 



Navajo weaver. 
An Indian weaver. 

Harper's black and white, 
1899. 

Warping. 
Weaving the rug. 

Navajo woman weaving at 

hogan. 
Warping. 

The loom ready for work. 
The loom with design. 

Weaving Navajo blanket. 



222 APPENDIX B 

National Geographical Magazine. 
V. 15, Aug. 1904, p. 346. Indian weaver, S. W. Mexico. 
19, Oct. 1908, p. 688. Poncho weaver of Cuzco, Peru. 

I 23, Sept. 191 2, p. 889. An Ifugao woman making 

cloth. 
23, Dec. 191 2, p. 1280. Bedouin women weaving woolen 

cloth. 

29, May 1916, p. 454. Making blankets on hand looms, 

Peru. 

30, July 1916, p. 21. Weaving a blanket in Indian 

Mexico. 
Underwood and Underwood. 

Stereograph and slide neg. Blanket weaving of Hopi In- 
No. 6188. dians, Arizona. 

Records of the Past. 

Slide and print. No. 4500. Navajo woman spinning and 

weaving. 
1 1826. Navajo woman, Oraibe, Ariz. 
4530. Navajo woman completing rug. 
4501. Navajo blanket weaver. 
Scientific American Supplement. 
I V. 10, Sept. 1880, sup. no. Instruments used in weaving 
I 244, PL I. Aino cloth. 

PL 2. Methods of stretching and tying 

threads. 
I . PL 3. Weaving Aino cloth. 

V. 53, June 1902, sup. no. 

1382, Fig. 7. Weaving istle bagging by hand. 

Weaving VI 
Illustrated London News Supplement. 

May 28, 1881, p. 525. Native loom at Mangauya,E. C. 

Africa. 
Penny Magazine. 
Aug. 24, 1883, p. 325. Weaving in Ceylon. 



APPENDIX B 223 

Scientific American Supplement. 
I V. 51, May 1901, Figs. i-io. Heddle frames. 

Pueblo woman sitting on ground 
working heddle in weaving a 
belt. 
Zufii woman weaving cere- 
monial belt. 



Chinese cotton cloth weaver. 
ae. 

Woman of Korea weaving. 
Woman unwinding thread for 

loom. 
Starching thread and preparing 

it for loom, Korea. 



Weaving in Senegalais. 
Illustrated London News Supplement. 

May 17, 1879, p. 473. Weaving in Jellalabad. 

Underwood and Underwood. 
Stereograph and shde neg. 

No. 3453. Shawl weavers at Cashmere. 

Weaving IX 

F Cooper, Emma L. The Weaver, Canada. 

Phila. Water Color exhibit, 
June, 1906. 
American Water Color Co. No. 
449. 
Country Life in America. 
V. 4, July 1903, p. 198. Loom warped for weaving, 

p. 199. Weaving. 

10, June 1906, p. 863. A silk loom. 

p. 254. Old hand loom. 



I 




Fig. II. 


I 




Fig. 12. 


Weaving VII 
Magazine of Art. 

April 1900, p. 269. 
National Geographical Ma: 
V. 19, Dec. 1908, p. 874. 
I p. 875. 


I 




p. 876. 


Weaving 


VIII 




Figaro 
Aug. 


lUustre. 
1900, p. 180. 



224 



APPENDIX B 



Craftsman. 
V. I, Jan. 1902, p. 28. 
p. 46. 
16, May 1909, p. 227. 



29, Nov. 1915, p. 224. 

p. 224. 
29, Dec. 1915, p. 323- 



Hand looms, Halsemere, Eng. 
Colonial loom, Kentucky. 
Low warp loom, Herter tapes- 
tries. 
"Aunt Debby." Warps ready 
to be entered through heddles. 
Blind Tom weaving rag rugs.^ 
Starting a coverlid with five 

heddles. 
At the loom. 
1030 Perry. 
Illustrated London News Supplement. 

Feb. 6, 1875, p. 128. Weaving Sarango, Java. 

May 28, 1881, p. 521. ' Matting weavers, Glasgow. 

Royal tapestry looms at Wind- 
sor. 
Weaving, warping and repairing. 
Weaving cloth-of-gold for the 
King and Queen. 
International Studio. 

v. 58, Apr. 1916, p. LVIII. Colonial hand loom. 
Keystone View Co. 

Stereograph, No. 13499. 



F Gay, Walter. 



I Apr. 29, 1882, p. 413. 



June 17, 1911, p. 945. 



14754- 
Mcintosh Stereopticon Co. 
Slide, No. 1046.15. 
E 1047.10. 
E 1047.19. 

E 1047.20. 

E 1078. 74. 



Weaving woolen blankets on 
primitive hand loom, Tele- 
marken. 

Native loom, Kirju, Japan. 

Japanese looms. 

Weaving at loom in Norway. 

Weaving Gobelin tapestries, 

France. 
Weaving Gobelin tapestries, 

France. 
Weaving Persian rugs. 



APPENDIX B 



225 



Modern Mexico. 

June 1903, p. 27. Weaving. 

National Geographical Magazine. 



Looms of the Ilocanos, Luzon. 
A Swedish home. 
Benguet Igorot girls weaving. 
Armenian rug weavers at 
Van. 

Factory weaving in Japan. 



V. 16, Apr. 1905, p. 182. 
20, May 1909, p. 470. 
24, Nov. 1913, p. 1241. 
28, Oct. 191S, p. 340. 

Records of the Past. 

Slide and print, No. 11028. 
Scientific American Supplement. 

V. 48, Aug. 1899, Sup. No. The carpet workers, Gobelin. 
1232. 
Southern Workman. 

Apr. 1903, p. 211. 

June 1903, p. 278. 
The Studio. 

Autumn 1910, fig. 345. 

Underwood and Underwood. 
Stereograph and slide neg. 
No. 9574. 
4639- 



6419. 

3886. 
11467. 
I 1468. 

Weaving X 
International Studio. 
V. 42, Nov. 1910, p. 40. 



Hand loom. 

Weaving in Macedonia. 

Crude loom Nn. Museum, Stock- 
holm. 

Weaving royal Gobelin, France. 

Weaving Pima cloth, Philip- 
pines. 

Natives weaving matting, 
Mexico. 

Peasant weaving cotton, Japan. 

Arab weaver, Syria. 

Weaving, Syria. 



Ancient Japanese loom for weav- 
ing brocades from the Sho- 
kurin Burni by Minko. 



226 APPENDIX B 

Weaving XI 

Mcintosh Stereopticon Co. 

Slide No. E 1049.14. Jacquard for linen. 

Scientific American Supplement. 
V. 69, Apr. 1 9 10, sup. no. Building up the Jacquard har- 
1790. ness. 

1790. Jacquard figured goods. 

Underwood and Underwood. • 

Stereograph and slide neg. 
No. 1 1446. Warping mill — silk. 

1 1448. Entering silk through heddles. 

145 19. Jacquard weaving. 



APPENDIX C 

BOOKS FOR JUVENILES WITH ADDITIONAL ILLUS- 
TRATIONS 

Compiled by Anna la Tourette Blauvelt. 

Adams, Cyrus W., Commercial geography. D. Apple ton & Co. 

1911. 
Allen, Nellie B., Geographical and industrial reader. Ginn & 

Co. 1916. 
Baker, Emile Kip, Stories of old Greece and Rome. MacmOlan, 

1913- 
Baldwin, James, Old Greek stories. American Book Co. 1895. 
Beard, L. and A. B., Recreation for girls. Chas. Scribner & 

Sons. 1 9 14. 
Bonawitz and Coleman, Little travellers around the world. A. 

S. Barnes & Co. 1907. 
Bulfinch, Thos., Golden age of myth and legend. F. A. Stokes 

&Co. 
Bulfinch, Thos., Mythology. T. F. Crowell Co. 1913. 
Carpenter, Frank G., How the world is clothed. Amer. Book 

Co. 1908. 
Chamberlain, James F., How we are clothed. Macmillan Co. 

1904. 
Champlain, J. D., Young folks cyclopedia of common things. 

Henry Holt Co. 1908. 
Chase, and Clow, Stories in industry, II. Educational Pub. Co. 

1909. 
Colonial Stories retold from the St. Nicholas. Century Co. 
Customs of the world. Paternoster Row, London. 
Davis, John W., Evenings with Grandma. D. C. Heath. 1911. 
Emory, Mabel S., How to enjoy pictures. Prang Co. 1898. 

227 



228 APPENDIX C 

Gayley, Charles Mills. The classic myths in English literature 

and art. Ginn 8: Co. 191 1. 
Grover, Eulalie Osgood, Art literature readers, I. Atkinson, 

Mentzer Co. 1904. 
Guerber, H. A., Myths in northern lands. Amer. Book Co. 

189s. 
Hancock, Mary S., The children of history. Little, Brown, & 
Co. 
I Harding, Samuel B., The story of England. Scott, Foresman Sz 
Co. 1909. 
Hilton and RoUins, Industrial work for public schools. Rand 
& McNally. 1904. 
I Holbrook, Florence, Round the year in myth and song. Amer. 

Book Co. 1897. 
I Keller and Bishop, Commercial and industrial geography. 
Ginn & Co. 1916. 
Kingsley, Charles, The heroes. E. P. Button & Co. 
I Kinne and Cooley, Clothing and health. Macmillan Co. 

1916. 
I Kinne and Cooley, Shelter and clothing. Macmillan Co. 

1913- 
Lang, Jean, Book of myths. Putnam. 

Morris, Charles, Home life in all lands. Lippincott Co. 1909. 
Poulsson, Emily, In the child world. M. Bradley. 1898. 
Richmond, Celia, England, Scotland and Ireland. Ginn & Co. 

1914. 
Rocheloau, W. F., Great American industries. A. Flanagan Co. 

1906. 
Shillig, Eleanor E., The four wonders. Rand & McNally. 

1913. 
Warner, Charles F., Home decoration. Doubleday Page & Co. 

1911. 
I Williams, Archibald, How it is made. Thomas Nelson & Sons. 
I Wilmot-Buxton, Stories of Norse heroes. T. Y. Crowell Co. 

N. Y. 



INDEX 



African, 

spinning, lo, 2g-3i, figs. 3, 6, g 
weaving, 89, 99, 107, iii, 126-129, 
136-141, 158-165, figs. 44, 50, 51, 
62, 64 
Ainu weaving, 83, 106, 136-141, 154 
Alaskan Indian, 
spinning, 18-20 
weaving, 114-116, figs. 30-34 
Algerian spinning, fig. 9 
Alpine, 

spinning, 29-31, fig. 8 
weaving, 119-121, fig. 35 
American Indian, N. A., 

Alaskan, 18-20, 114-116, figs. 30-34 
Hopi, 149-151, fig. 56 
Kwakiutl, 24-26, fig. 5 
Mexican, 130-134, figs. 46-49 
Navajo, 24-26, 91, loi, 107, no, 
130-134, 136-141, figs. 4. 45, 47- 
49, 53, 54 
Northwest coast, 9, 18-20, 83, 94, 

109, 114-116, figs. 30-34 
Pima, 24-26 
Salish, 21-23, 86, 126-129, figs. 2, 

43 
Slave, fig. 52 

Tlinget, 18-20, 114-116, figs. 30-34 
Zuni, 149-151, fig. 55 
American Indian, S. A., 

British Guiana apron weaving, 126- 

128 
Holamux Indian loom, 126-128, fig. 

41 
Tereno Indian loom, 126-128, fig. 
42 
Ancient textiles, 1-3 

spinning, 3, 4, 10, 29-31, figs. 3, 6, 8 
weaving, 81, 87, 90, 91, 92, 96, 98, 
99, loi, 104, 107, III, 119-121, 
136-141, figs. 35-38, so, 51 

2 



Arkwright's Water frame, 56-59, figs. 

21, 22 
Asiatic, 

spinning, 8, 10, 11, 12, 14, 16, 24-26, 

29-31, 36-39, fig- 10 
weaving, 83, 98, 99, 106, 136-140, 
153-157, 158-165, 185-189, figs. 
57-61, 63, 65, 77, 78, 82 
Asiatic wheel (see Jersey wheel) 
Attenuating, 4, 6-9, 19, 22, 25, 30, 39, 

48, 53, 57, 61, 66, 74 
Attenuating device, 

hand, 6-8, 18, 24, 36, 43, figs. 4, 5, 12, 

13 
hand and spindle, 6-8, 29, 30, fig. 7 
moving carriage, 8-9, 51, 52, figs. 17- 

19 
rollers, 8-9, 56, 71, 72, figs. 22, 26-28 
rollers and moving carriage, 8-9, 59, 

60, 64, figs. 23-25 
spindle and ring, 21, 22 
Attenuating ring, 21, 22 
Automatic, 

beams, 91, 199-201, figs. 87—89 
spinning, 17, 64-67, 71-75, figs. 25-29 
weaving, 91, 113, 199-203, figs. 87-89 

Bar looms, 86, 88, 107, 108, 126-130, 

130-135, fig- 41-49 
Bark mat weaving, 83, 114-115, fig. 30 
Basketry technics, 82, 83 
Batten, 104-106 

comb, 105, 131, 136, 138, 163, fig. 60 
needle-shuttle, loi, 102, 105, 128, 

138 
none, 104, 114, 126, 127, 131, 136, 

138., 150, figs. 30, 31, 41-43 
reed, 106, 153, 154, 156, 161, 163, 
168, 172, 186, 193, 200, 201, figs. 52, 
57-59, 61, 62, 64, 65, 67, 72-76, 
77, 78, 87-89 
29 



230 



INDEX 



Batten, 

stick, los, 119, 120, 128, 131, 136, 
138, 149, 150, 161, 163, • 168, 
172, figs. 39, 40, 44-46, 48, so. 51- 
54-56, 60, 66 
Battening, 84, loi, 102, 104-106, 114, 
IIS, 121, 129, 133, 139, 151, 157, 
164, 172, 188, 203 
Beaming, 84, 86, no, 1x5, 121, 128, 

132, 139, 150, 164, 172, 188, 202 
Beams, 86-92 {see Warp arrangement) 

automatic, 91, 199-201, figs. 87-89 

non-revolving, 90-92 

one only, 86, 90, 114, figs. 31-33 

revolving cloth beam, 88, 90-92 

revolving warp beam, 89-92 
Bedouin weaving, 98 
Beni Hassan, 92 

Bibliography, general, 207 (Appendix A) 
Bibliography, spinning, 

Flyer, Cap and Ring sp. frames, 75 

Grasped hand spindle, 23 

Hand mule, 62 

Hand spinning, 20 

Jenny frame, 54 

Jersey and Asiatic wheels, 40 

Saxony wheel, 48 

Self-acting mule, 67 

Supported hand spindle, 26 

Suspended hand spindle, 32 

Water frame, 57 
Bibliography, weaving. 

Draw loom, 188 

Frameless two-bar loom, 134 

Jacquard loom, 196 

One-beam loom, 117 

One-shaft loom, 151 

One-shaft treadle loom, 158 

Perfected hand loom, 179 

Power loom, 203 

Two-bar loom, 129 

Two-beam loom, 144 

Two-shaft treadle loom, 165 

Weighted warp loom, 122 
Bobbin creel (spinning), 52, 53, 56, 60, 

61, 72, 74, figs. 17, 18, 19, 26 
Bobbin shuttle, 102, 131, 154, 156, 
161, 163, 168, 171, 186, 193, 201, 
figs. 58, 59. 61. 66, 68, 74, 77 



Bobbin spindle 

on Flyer, Cap and Ring frames, 12, 

14, 71-74. figs. 26-29 
on Saxony wheel, 11, 13, 43-48, 

figs. 12-16 
on Water frame, 12, 13, 56, 57, figs. 
21, 22 
Bone and muscle, 83 
Books for Juveniles with illustrations, 

227 (Appendix C) 
British Guiana apron weaving, 126-129 
Brunswick spinning wheel, 36-39 {see 

Jersey wheel) 
Bunched warp ends, 88 

Calabar, W. Africa, loom, 126-129, 

fig- 44 
Cap spinning frame, 8, 12, 14, 71-79, 
figs. 26, 29 {see Flyer spinning 
frame) 
Cartwright's power looms, figs. 86, 87 
Ceylon loom, 98, 154-157, fig. 57 
Chilkat blanket weaving, 114-116, 

figs. 31-34 
Chinese treadle wheel, 11, 36-39 
Chinese weaving, 
draw loom, 185-188, figs. 77, 82 
early loom, 98, 106, 153-158, fig. 59 
Chronological sequence, 2 
Circe loom, 119-121, figs. 36, 37 
Cloth beam, 86-92 {see W. types) 
attached to weaver's belt, 88, 91, 107, 
130, 132, 137, 148-150, 154, 156, 
figs. 45, 55, 56, 58. 59 
automatic, 91, 199-201, figs. 87-89 
identical with warp beam, 86, 90, 114, 

figs. 31-33 
Navajo, 91 
non-revolving, 90-92 
revolving, 88, 90-92 
Cloth making, 80-206 {sec Weaving, W. 
implement, W. processes, W. 
types) 
age, 80 

ancient, 81, 87, 90, 91, 92, 96, 99, 
loi, 104, 107, III, 119-121, 136- 
141, figs, 35-38, so, 51 
beginnings, i, 2, 80 
defined, 82, 83 



INDEX 



231 



Cloth making, 

developments, 2, 81, 85-113 {see 
W. types) 

early, i, 2, 4, 80, 81 

first implements for, 85 

implement for {see Looms) 

into garments, 82 

into piece goods, 82 

invention in, 80-113 {see W. types) 

loom weaves, 82, 83 

mastery in, 81 

native materials for, 81, 83 

native weavers, 2 

origin of, 80, 81 

primitive, 1-3, 80-82 {see ibid.) 

processes, 84-113 {see W. processes) 

simplest, 94, 114-116, fig. 30 

source, 80 

structure, 83 
Clove bars, 52, 53, figs. 17-19 
Colonial loom, 168-179 
Comberboard, 187, 196, figs. 81, 84, 

8s 
Combining processes, 14, 15 
Conserving energy, 15, 17 
Continuous spinning, 13, 15, 43, 56, 72, 

figs. 12-16, 21, 22, 26-29 
Continuous weaving, 91, 199-203, figs. 

86-89 
Counter faller-wire, 64-66, fig. 25 
Creel of rove bobbins (spinning), 52, 

S3, 56, 60, 61, 72, 74, figs. 17, 18, 

19, 26 
Crompton's hand mule, 59-62, figs. 23, 

24 

Dacca yarn, 7, 10, 11, 24-26 

Design making, 93, 94, 95, 99, 100, 105, 

185-188, 192-196, figs. 77-81, 83- 

8S _ 
Developing agencies, 14-17, 11 2-1 13 

{see Yarn making and Cloth mak- 
ing) 
Development, 5-17, 81, 85-113 {see S. 

and W. types) 
Direction of technic, 114, 119, 126, 131, 

136, 149 
Distaff, 8, 29-31, 43, 46-48, figs. 7, 9, 

13 



Distinctive characteristics, 

spinning types, 18, 21, 24, 29, 36, 

43,51, 56, 59, 64, 71 
weaving types, 114, 119, 126, 130, 
136, 149, 153, 158, 168, 185, 192, 
199 
Double drafting, 7-9, 15, 29-31, 59, 

61, 64, 66, figs. 7, 23-25 
Drafting {see Attenuating) 
Draw boy, 100, 186, 188, 193, figs. 77, 

78 
Draw boy mounting, 100, 185, 186, figs. 

77-81 
Draw loom, 185-192, figs. 77-82, 
Action of two harness systems, 100, 

185-189, fig. 79 
bibliography, 188 
characteristics, 185 
Chinese draw loom, 185-188, fig. 77 
compound system of shedding, 100, 

185-189, figs. 77-81 
Diagram European draw loom, 185- 

188, fig. 81 
economics, 100 
in production, 188 
in cloth, 188 
examples, 186 
first elaborate pattern weaving, 100, 

185, figs. 77-81 

French draw loom, 100, 185-188, fig. 

81 
illustration list, 191 
implement, 186 

batten, 106, 186, figs. 77, 78 
beams, 89-91, 186, figs. 77, 78 
frame, log, 186, figs. 77, 78 
shedding mechanism, 186 

shaft mounting, 98-100, 185, 

186, figs. 77-81 

draw boy mounting, 100, 185, 
186, figs. 77-81 
shuttle, 102, 103, 186, figs. 68, 69, 

74, 75, 77 
treadles, 185, 188 
warping device, no, in, 188, fig. 
82 
Japanese draw loom, 185-188, fig. 78 
loom mounting, 188 
magazine illustration, 225 



232 



INDEX 



Draw loom, 
outline, i86 
power, 113, 188 
process, 188 

battening, 84, 188 

beaming, 84, 188 

heddling, 84, 188 

picking, 84, 188 

shedding, 84, 188, 189 

warping, 84, 188 

warp adjusting, 178 
silk warping in ancient China, fig. 82 
two systems of harness, 185-189, 

fig. 80 
weft devices, 185 
wefting, 188 
Draw rollers, 

on Flyer, Cap and Ring spinning 

frames, 7, 8, 71, 72, 74, figs. 26-28 
on Hand mule, 7-9, 59-61, figs. 23, 24 
on Self-acting mule, 7-9, 64, 66, 

fig- 25 
on Water frame, 7-9, 56, 57, fig. 22 
Drive wheel, 11, 16, 17, 36-39, 43-48, 

Si-54, 56, 57, 60, 61, figs. 10-13, 

16-19, 22-24 
Drop-box shuttle, 104, 168, 172, 178, 

193, 201, fig. 76 
Dunbar mat weaving, 98, 153-157. 

fig- 57 

Early spinners, 2 
Early weavers, 2 
Early yarn, 3, 4 
Eastern weavers, 98, 99, 112 
Economic progress {see S. and W. 
development. Increased production 
and Improved product) 
Egyptian spinning, 
yarn, 10, 29-31, fig. 6 
twine, fig. 3 
Egyptian weaving, 

Ancient mat loom, 90, 91, 104, 136- 

141, fig. 50 
Middle Age loom, 92, 158-165, fig. 64 
Middle Kingdom hnen loom, 90, 91, 

92, 96, loi, 136-141, fig. 51 
New Kingdom linen loom, 90, 92, 96, 
loi, 107, III, 136-141 



EngHsh fly-shuttle weaving, 168-179, 

fig- 67, 75 
Entire weavings, 82 
European, 

spinning, 8, 29-31, 36-74, figs. 7, 8, 

11-29 
weaving, 100, 112, 119-121, 168- 

179, 185-189, 192-196, 199-203, 

figs- 35-40, 66-76, 79-81, 83-89 
Extended warp, 88, 89, figs- 60-62, 

64, 65 {see Warp arrangement) 

Faller-wire, 52, 53, 62, 64-66, figs. 19, 

25 

Flesh and skin, 83 

Fly-shuttle, 103, 108, 168, 171, 175- 
179, 186, 193, 201, figs. 67, 69, 75, 
76 
Flyer spinning frame, 71-79, figs- 26-29 
bibliography, 75 
characteristics, 71 
continuous spinning, 72, 74 
Cross section. Flax spinning frame, 

fig. 26 
economics, 56 
in output, 74 
in yarn, 75 
example, 72 
illustration list, 76 
implement, 

creel of rove bobbins, 72, 74, fig. 26 
drawing rollers, 8, 71, 72, figs. 26, 27 
Flyer spindle, 12, 14, 71, 72, figs. 

26, 27 
frame, 72, fig. 26 
lifter rail or plate, 72, figs. 26, 27 
spindles with bobbins, 12, 14, 71^ 
72, figs. 26, 27 
modeled after, 71 
outline, 72 
power, 17, 71, 74 
process, 

attenuating, 7, 8, 74 
twisting, 12, 74 
winding, 14, 74 
Frame {see S. frame and Loom frame) 
Frameless looms, 86, 88, 107, 130, 131, 
137, 149, 150, figs. 45. 46, 50. 51. 
55, 56 



INDEX 



233 



Frameless two-bar loom, 130-135, figs. 
45-49 
bibliography, 134 
characteristics, 130 
development of simplest shedding, 

93-95, 131-133, figs. 46-49 
direction of technic, 131 
economics, 86, 88, 107 

in cloth, 134 

in production, 134 
example, 131 
illustration list, 135 
implement, 130, 131 

batten, 104, 105, 131, figs. 45, 46, 48 

frame, 86, 88, 107, 130, 131, figs. 

45. 46 

free bars, 86, 88, 130, 131, fig. 45 
rod-heddle, 95, 131, 133, figs. 45, 

46, 48, 49 

shed-rod, 93, 94, 131, 133, figs. 45, 

46, 48, 49 
shuttle, loi, 102, 131, fig. 46 
warping device, no, 131, 132, fig. 

47 
warp post, 86, 88, 107, 130, 132 
weaver's belt, 86, 88, 107, 130- 

132, fig. 45 
weaver's comb, 105, 131, fig. 60 
loom mounting, 84, 132 
magazine illustration, 221 
Mexican belt loom, 130, 134, fig. 46 
modern Navajo belt loom frame, 131 
Navajo woman weaving belt, 130- 

i34> fig- 45 
outline, 131 
power, 112, 131 
process, 132 

battening, 84, 133 

beaming, 84, 86, 132 

heddhng, 84, 132 

picking, 84, 133 

shedding, 84, 133 

warp adjusting, 133, 134 

warping, 84, 132 
Rod-heddle and shed-rod at work, 

95. 133, fig- 49 
Shed-rod and rod-heddle, 95, fig. 48 
warp devices, 86, 130 
Warping for Navajo belt, 132, fig. 47 



Frameless two-bar loom, 

warp lengthening, 88 

warp stretching, 86, 130, 132, figs. 45, 
49 

weft devices, 94, 95, 102, 105, 131 

wefting, 84, 133 
Free spindle, 10, 11, 18-32, figs. 2-9 
French loom, 

draw, 185-188, fig. 81 

hand, 168-179 

Grasped hand spindle, 21-24, figs. 2, 3 
Egyptian twine maker, fig. 3 
bibliography, 23 
characteristics, 21 
economics, 14—16 

in production, 22 

in yarn, 23 
example, 21 
illustration list, 24 
implement, 21 

drafting ring, 21,22 

hand spindle, 9, 10, 21, fig. 2 
intermittent spinning, 12, 21 
largest hand spindle, 10, 21, fig. 2 
most elemental spindle spinning, 10, 

12, 16, 22, fig. 2 
outline, 21 
power, 16, 22 
process, 22 

attenuating, 7, 22 

twisting, 10, 16, 22, fig. 2 

winding, 12, 22 
simplest attenuating device, 21, 22 
Simplest spindle spinning, Salish 
Indian, fig.' 2 
Greek, 
ancient spinning, 10 
ancient weaving, 103, iig-121, figs. 

36-38 
medieval weaving, 168-179, fig. 66 
Grifi", 195, 196, figs. 84, 85 

Hand crank, 38, 52, figs. 18, 19, 23, 24 
Hand drafting, 6-8, 19, 22, 25, 30, 39, 

48, figs. 4, 7, 12, 13 
Hand mule, 59-64, figs. 23, 24 

bibliography, 62 

characteristics, 59 



234 



INDEX 



Hand mule, 

compound of Water frame and 

Jenny, 59, 60 
Crompton's mule, 59-62, fig. 23 
Cross section, Hand mule, fig. 24 
double drafting, 8, 9, 15, 59, 61 
earliest mechanical double attenua- 
tion, 59-62 
earliest mechanically spun fine yarn, 

economics, 15 

in output, 62 

in yarn, 62 
example, 60 
illustration list, 63 
implement, 59, 60 

carriage with spindles, 9, 59, 60, 
figs. 23, 24 

creel of rove bobbins, 61, figs. 23, 
24 

draft rollers, 8, g, 59, 60, fig. 24 

drive wheel, 60. figs. 23, 24 

faller-wire, 62 

frame, 60, figs. 23, 24 

headstock, 60, figs. 23, 24 

spindles, 12, fig. 24 
intermittent spinning, 59, 60 
magazine, illustration, 221 
outline, 60 
power, 17, 60 
process, 61 

attenuating, 7, 8, 9, 61 

twisting, 12, 61 

winding, 13, 61 
Hand shuttle (see Bobbin shuttle) 
Hand spindle spinning, 6-8, 9-1 1, 12, 

21-23, 24-26, 29-31, figs. 2-9 
Hand spinning, 18-21, fig. i 
bibliography, 20 
characteristics, 18 
early, 4 
economics, 5, 14, 15 

in production, 20 

in yarn, 20 
examples, 18 
Hand-on-thigh spinning, Philippine 

Islands, fig. i 
illustration list, 21 
implement, 18, ig, fig. i 



Hand spinning, 

intermittent spinning, 12, 18- 

magazine illustration, 216 

outline, 18 

power, 19 

process, 19 

drafting, 6, 7, 18, 19 
twisting, 9, 18, ig, fig. i 
winding, 12, 18, ig 

simplest spinning, 7, g, 18, fig. i 
Hangers, 186, fig. 80, 81 
Hargreaves' Jenny, 51-55, figs. 18-20 
Harness, 

double, 100, i85-i8g, figs. 77-81 

Jacquard, g3, 100, ig2-ig5, figs. 83- 

. ^5 
single, gg, 156, 161, 163, 170, figs. 57- 

62, 64-67, 72, 73 
Heddles {see Shedding device) 
Heddling, 84, 115, 121, 132, 139, 150, 

157, 164, 172, 188, 202 
High's Jenny, fig. 17 
Holamux Indian loom, i26-i2g, fig. 41 
Hook and Needle Harness, 100, ig3, 

igS, ig6, figs. 83-85 
Hopi Indian belt weaver, 149-151, fig. 

56 
Hungarian, 

Peasant warping, fig. 71 
Suspended spindle spinning, fig. 7 

Iceland loom, iig-121, fig. 40 
Illustration lists, spinning, 

Flyer, Cap and Ring spinning frames, 
76 

Grasped hand spindle, 24 

Hand mule, 63 

Hand spinning, 21 

Jenny frame, 55 

Jersey and Asiatic wheels, 41 

Saxony wheel, 49 

Self-acting mule, 69 

Supported hand spindle, 28 

Suspended hand spindle, 34 

Water frame, 58 
Illustration Usts, weaving 

Draw loom, igi 

Frameless two-bar loom, 135 

Jacquard loom, ig7 



INDEX 



235 



Illustration lists, weaving 
One-beam loom, 118 
One-shaft loom, 152 
One-shaft treadle loom, 158 
Perfected hand loom, 181 
Power loom, 204 
Two-bar loom, 130 
Two-beam loom, 144 
Two-shaft treadle loom, i65 
Weighted warp loom, 124 
Implement for spinning, 
ancient, 4, g 
awkward, 2 
early, 4 
free spindle, g-ii, 21-23, 24-26, 

29-32, figs. 2-9 
hand only, 2, s, g, 18-20, fig. i 
improvements in, 6 
mounted spindle, 11, 12 

on frames, 5, 7, 8, 51-54. 56-57, 

59-62, figs. 17-24 
on machines, 5, 7, 8, 64-67, 71-74, 

figs. 25-29 
on wheels, 5, 6, 8, 36-39, 43-48, 
figs. 10-16 
self-acting tool, 2, 5, 7, 64-67, 71-74, 
figs. 25-29 
Implement for weaving, 85-113 {see W. 

types) 
Improved product, 1-3 

cloth, 85-111, 115, 121, 129, 134, 
141, 151, 158, 165, 179, 188, 196, 
203 
yarn, 4-14, 20, 23, 26, 31, 40, 48, 54, 
57, 62, 67, 75 
Increased production, 1-3 

in cloth, 85-111, 112-113, 115, 121, 
129, 134, 141, 151, 157, 164, 178, 
188, ig6, 203 
in yarn, 5, 6, 14-17, 20, 22, 26, 31, 
39, 48, 53, 57, 62, 67, 74 
India, 

spinning, 7, lo-ii, 36-39, fig. 10 
weaving, 89, 92, 98, 99, no, 153- 
157, 158-165, figs. 57, 60, 61, 
63, 70 
Indian {see American Indian, N. 

and S.) 
Industrial Revolution, 6, 100 



Intermittent spinning, 12, 13, 15, 18, 

24, 30, 37, 51, 59, 64 
Invention, 

activity in, 2 

beginnings, 2 

incentive to, i 

mastery in, 2 

primitive, 2 

spinning, 3-75 

spirit of, I 

textile, I, 2 

weaving, 80-203 
Iron pin, 91, 150, 151 
Ishogo weaving, 136-141 

Jacquard hand loom, ig2-ig8, figs. 83- 
85 
bibliography, ig6 
characteristics, 192 
developing pattern shedding, 100 
economics, gg, 100 
in cloth, 196 
in production, 196 
example, 193 
illustration list, 197 
implement, 193 

batten, 106, 193, figs. 67, 74-76 
beams, 89-gi, 193, fig. 83 
frame, 109, 193, fig. 83 
shedding device, 

shaft-heddles, 98-100, 192-196 
string-heddles and mechanism, 
100, 192-196, figs. 83-85 
shuttle, 102-104, 193, figs. 68, 6g, 
74-76 
Jacquard at work, fig. 85 
Jacquard hand loom of 1804, 192- 

196, fig. 83 
Jacquard mechanism, 192-196, fig. 

84 
magazine illustration, 226 
outline, 193 
perfected pattern shedding, 100, 192- 

196, figs. 83-85 
power, 113, 196 
process, ig6 

shedding, 84, 196 
Jacquard harness, 93, 99, 100, 192-196, 
figs. 83-Ss 



236 



INDEX 



Japanese weaving, 

draw loom, 185-188, fig. 78 

early loom, 98, 153-158 
Jenny spinning frame, 51-55, figs. 17-20 

acceleration by multiple spinning, 
SI, 53 

all mechanical processes, 51, 53 

bibliography, 54 

characteristics, 51 

Cross section of Hargreaves' Jenny, 
SI-S3, fig- 19 

earliest mechanical attenuation, 7, 8, 

51-54 
earliest multiple spinning device, 

51 
economics, 8 

in output, 53 

in yarn, 54 
example, 51 

Hargreaves' Jenny, 51-54, fig. 18 
High's Jenny, fig. 17 
illustration list, 55 
implement, 51 

clove bars, 51-53, figs. 17-1Q 

creel with rove bobbins, 51-53, 
figs. 17-19 

drive wheel, 51-53, figs. 17-19 

endless band and cylinder, 51, 52, 
figs. 17-19 

faller-wire, 52, 53 

frame, 51, 52, figs. 17-19 

moving carriage, 8, 51-53, figs. 17- 
19 

row of spindles, 51-53, figs. 17, 18 
intermittent spinning, 15, 51, 53 
multiple spinning frame, 51 
outline, 51 
power, 52 
principle of, 51 
process, 53 

attenuating, 8, 51-53 

twisting, 12, 5 1-53 

winding, 13, 51-53 
Spindle of Jenny, fig. 20 
Jersey wheel, 36-43, figs. 10, 11, 
accelerating wheel, 36 
bibliography, 40 
characteristics, 36 
developing agencies, 14, 16 



Jersey wheel, 

earliest mechanical spinning, 36 
Earliest spinning wheel, India, 11. 

fig. 10 
economics, 11, 14, 16 

in production, 39 

in yarn, 40 
examples, 37 

first mechanical twisting and wind- 
ing, 11-13, 36, 37 
first mounted spindle, 11, 12, 36-39 
illustration list, 41 
implement, 37 

crank, 38, fig. 10 

drive band, 11, 38, figs. 10, 11 

drive stick, 38, figs. 10, 11 

drive wheel, 11, 36-39, figs. 10, 
II 

spindle, 11, 13, 36-39, figs. 10, 11 

standard, 11, 37, figs. 11 

treadle, 11, 37, 38 
intermittent spinning, 12, 13, 37, 

38 
Jersey hand wheel, Europe, fig. 11 
magazine illustration, 218 
motion, 14, 37, 38 
one-hand spinning wheel, 36-39, 

figs. 10, II 

outline, 37 

power, 16, 38 

principle, 36 

process, 39 

attenuating, 8, 36, 38, 39 
twisting, II, 12, 36, 38, 39 
winding, 12, 37-39 

Korean loom, 98, 153-158, fig. 58 
Koryak native spinning, 18-20 
Kwakiutl Indian spinner, 24-26, fig. 5 

Lake-dwellers, 
spinning, fig. 8 
weaving, g6, 119-121, fig. 35 
Lease, 95, 109, no, in, 164, 172, figs. 

67. 72. 73 
Lease-rod, 95, figs. 67, 72, 73 
Leashes, 100, 186, 196, figs. 77, 78, 80, 

81, 84, 85 
Leonardo da Vinci's spindle, fig. 14 



INDEX 



237 



"Let-off," 84, 91, 112, 157, 164, 178, 

200 
Lingoes, 186, 196, figs. 80, 81, 84, 85 
Looms {see W. types), 

African, 89, 98, 99, 107, 126-129, 

136-141, 158-165, figs. 44, 50, 51, 

62, 64 {see Egy. w.) 
Ainu, 83, 106, 136-141 
Alaskan, 114-116, figs. 30-34 
Alpine, 119-121, fig. 35 
Asiatic, 83, 89, 92, 98, 99, 106, no, 

136-141, 153-158, 158-165, 185- 

189, figs. 57-61, 63, 65, 77-80 
Bedouin, 98 

British Guiana apron, 126-129 
Calabar, 126-129, fig. 44 
Cartwright's, figs. 86, 87 
Ceylon, 98, 154-157, fig. 57 
Chilkat, 114-116, figs. 31-34 
Chinese, 98, 106, 153-158, 185-188, 

figs. 5Q. 77. 82 
Circe, 119-121, figs. 36, 37 
Colonial, 168-179 
Draw loom, 91, 99, 100, 109, 113, 

185-189, figs. 77-82 
Dunbar, 98, i53-iS7, fig- 57 
Egyptian, 90-92, 96, loi, 104, 107, 

III, 136-141, 158-165, figs. 50, 51, 

64 
English, 168-179, figs. 67-76 
European, 100, 112, 119-121, 168- 

203, figs. 35-40, 67-76, 81, 83-89 
Frameless, two-bar, 86, 88, 107, 130- 

135, figs. 45-49 
French, 168-179, 185-188, fig. 81 
Greek, 103, 119-121, 168-179, figs. 

36-38, 66 
Holamux, 126-129, fig. 41 
Hopi, 149-151- fig. 56 
Icelandic, 11 9-1 21, fig. 40 
India, 89, 92, 98, no, 153-157, 158- 

165, figs. 57, 60, 61, 6j, 70 
Ishogo, 136-141 
Jacquard, 91, 93, 99, 100, 109, 113, 

192-198, figs. 83-85 
Japanese, 98, 153-158, 185-188, fig. 

78 
Korean, 98, 153-158, fig. 58 
Lake-dweller, 96, 119-120, fig. 35 



Looms, 

Mexican, 130-134, figs. 46-49 
Most elementary, 86, 87, 94, loi, 

104, 109, 114-116, figs. 30-34 
Navajo, 91, loi, 107, no, 130-134, 

136-141, figs. 45, 47-4Q. Si, 54 
Northwest coast, 83, 94, 109, 114- 

n6, figs. 30-34 
One-beam, 86, 87, 88, 94, loi, 107, 

108, no, 114-119, figs. 30-34 
One-shaft, 88, 91, 96, 107, 149-153, 

figs- 55, 56 
One-shaft treadle, 91, 97, 98, ic6, 

108, n3, 153-157, figs. 58, 59 
Penelope's, 103, 119-121, fig. 38 
Perfected hand, 87, 91, 100, ic6, 108, 

109, 113, 168-179, figs. 67-76 
Power, 91, 109, 113, 193, 199-203, 

figs. 86-89 
Robert's, 199-203, fig. 89 
Salish, 86, 126-129, fig- 43 
Scandinavian, fig. 39 
Slave, fig. 52 
Tereno, 126-129, fig- 42 
Two-bar, 86, 88, 107, 108, 126-130, 

figs. 41-44 
Two-beam, 87, 90, 107, 108, 136- 

149, figs. 50-54 
Two-shaft treadle, 91, 98, 99, ic6, 

108, 113, 158-168, figs. 60-65' 
Weighted warp, 86-88, 94, 107, 108, 

n9-i25, figs. 35-40 
Zuni, 149-151, fig. 55 
Loom beams, 86-92 {see W. types) 
automatic, 91, 199-201, figs. 87-89 
non-revolving, 89-92 
one only, 86, go, 114, figs. 31-33 
revolving cloth beam, 88, 90-92 
revolving warp beam, 89-92 
Loom frame, 106-109, 

beginnings, 107, 108, 114, 120, 126, 

127, 137, 161, figs. 30, 31, 36, 37, 

39, 40, 41-43, 50-52, 57, 60, 61 
horizontal, 108, 154, 156, 158, 161, 

168, 169, 185, 186, 193, 200, figs. 

58, 59, 60, 62, 64, 65, 67, 72, 77, 78, 

83, 87, 89 
vertical rectangular, 107, 108, 138, 

168, i6g, figs. 44, 54, 66, 86 



238 



INDEX 



Loom mounting, 84, 114, 121, 128, 132, 

130, 150, 157, 164, 172, 188, 202 
Loom weights, 86, 119, 120, figs. 35-40 

Machine, 

spinning, 5, 7, 64-67, 71-75, figs. 25- 

29 
warping, iii, 202 

weaving, 81, 91, 112, 113, 199, 203, 
figs. 86-89 
Magazine illustration, 216 (Appendix 
B) 
Spinning I, 216; II, 216; IV, 217; 

V, 218; VI, 219; IX, 221 
Weaving, II, 221; IV, 221; V, 2 2 1 ; 

VI, 222; VII, 223; VIII, 223; 
IX, 223 ; X, 225 ; XI, 226 

Mails, 186, 196, figs. 80, 81, 84, 85 

Malay Island shuttle, 103 

Matting, 87, 90, 91, 98, 104, 136-141, 

153-157, figs, so, 57 
Measuring stafi, 109, 114, 115, fig. 

32 
Mechanical drafting {see Attenuating) 
7, 8, 9, 30, 51, 56, 61, 66, 74. figs. 
6-9, 17-19, 21-29 
Mechanical science, 

in spinning {see Yarn making and 

S. types) 
in weaving (.see Cloth making and 
W. types) 
Medieval weaving, 92, 99, 100, 158- 

165, 168-179, fig. 64, 66 
Mexican, 

belt weaving, 130-134, figs. 46-49 
spinning, 24-26 
Mill warping, in, 139, 172, 202, figs. 

81, 82 
Modern weaving, 81, 82 
Most rudimentary weaving implement, 

114, figs. 30, 31 
Mounted spindle, 11, 12, 36-79, figs. 

10-29 
Moving carriage, 8-9 

on Hand mule, 8, 9, 64-67, figs. 23, 

24 
on Jenny, 8, 51-53, figs. 17-19 
on Self-acting mule, 8, 9, 64-67, fig. 
25 



Mule spinning, 

Crompton's Hand mule, fig. 23 
Cross section Hand mule, fig. 24 
Four stages of mule spinning, fig. 25 
Hand mule, 59-62, figs. 23, 24 
Self-acting mule, 64-67, fig. 25 

Navajo Indian, 

belt weaving, no, 130-134, figs. 45, 

47-49 
blanket weaving, 91, loi, 107, no, 

136-141, figs. 53- 54 
spinning, 24-26, fig. 4 
Necking cords, 187, 195, figs. 81, 84, 85 
Needle board, 195, figs. 84, 85 
Needle-shuttle, loi, 102, 105, 128, 138, 

156, figs. 39, 57 
Neolithic weavers, 81 
Northwest coast Indian, 
spinning, 9, 18-20 

weaving, 83, 94, 109, 114-116, figs. 
30-34 

One-band wheel 
{see Asiatic wheel) 
(and Jersey wheel) 
One-beam loom, 114-119, figs. 30-34 
Am. Indian of northwest, 83, 94, 109, 

n4-n6, figs. 30-34 
Bark mat weaving, 83, 114-115, fig. 

30 
bibliography, 117 
characteristics, 114 
Chilkat blanket, 114-116, figs. 31-34 
developing agencies, 85 

beam, 86 

frame, 107 

warping, 109 
direction of technic, 114 
economics, 86, 87, 94, loi 

in cloth, 115 

in production, 115 
example, 114 
illustration list, 118 
implement, 114 

batten, 104, 114 

beam, 86, 114-115, figs. 30, 31. 33 

frame, 107, 108, 114, figs. 30, 31 

shedding device, 94, 114, 115 



INDEX 



239 



One-beam loom, 

shuttle, loi, 114 

warping device, log, 114, fig. 32 
loom mounting, 84, 109, 114 
Measuring stafi, 109, 114, fig. 32 
Method of attaching warp, 86, no, 

IIS, fig. 33 
most rudimentary loom, 114, figs. 30, 

31 
outline, 114 

over and under weaving, 114, 115 
power, 112, 114 
process, 114 

battening, 84, 104, 114, 115 

beaming, 84, 86, no, 115, fig. ^3 

heddling, 84, 115 

picking, 84, 94, loi, 114, 115 

shedding, 84, 94, 114, 115 

warping, 84, log, 115 
suspended warp, 114, figs. 30, 31, ss 
Twilled twining, 115, figs. 33, 34 
twine weaving, 115, figs. 33, 34 
warp length, 87, 88, 114, 115 
warp stretching, 86, 114, 115 
weaving technics, 114, 115, figs. 33, 34 
weft devices, 94, loi, 104, 114 
wefting, 84, 115 
Wool weaving, fig. 3 1 
One-shaft loom, 149-153, figs. 55, 56 
bibliography, 151 
characteristics, 149 
development, 85 

improved shedding, 96, 97 
direction of technic, 149 
economics, 

in cloth, 151 

in production, 151 
examples, 149 

frameless loom, 88, 107, 149-151 
Hopi belt weaver, 149-151, fig. 56 
illustration list, 152 
implement, 149 

batten, 105, 149, 150, figs. 55- S6 

beams, 88, 89 

cloth, 88, 91, 149, 150, figs. 55, 56 
warp, 88, 149, 150, figs. 55, 56 
warp post, 88, 107, 149, 150, 
fig- 56 

frame, 88, 107, 149, figs. 55, 56 



One-shaft loom, implement, 

shaft-heddle, 96, 97, 149, 150, figs. 

55, 56 
shuttle, 102, 149, 150, fig. 55 
warping device, 150, fig. 47 
weaver's belt, 88, 107, 149, 150, 
figs. 45, 58, 59 
loom mounting, 150 
■ magazine illustration, 222 
outline, 149 
power, 112, 150 
process, 150 

battening, 84, 151 
beaming, 84, 150 
heddling, 84, 150 
picking, 84, 151 
shedding, 84, 151 
warping, 84, 150 
warp adjusting, 151 
simplest shaft shedding, 149 
warp devices, 149 
warp extension, 88, 91, 149 
warp stretching, 88, 149 
weft devices, 96, 102, 105, 149, 

150 
wefting, 84, 151 

Zuni belt making, 149-151, fig. 55 
One-shaft treadle loom, 153-158, figs. 
57-59 
bibhography, 158 
characteristics, 153 
development, 85 
batten, 106 
beams, 89-91 
frame, 108 
power, 98 
shedding, 97, 98 
shuttle, loi, 102 
Early Chinese loom, 98, 106, 153- 

158, fig. 59 
Early Korean loom, 98, 153-158, fig. 

58 
economics, 8g, 98, 99 
in cloth, 157 
in production, 157 
Evolving heddle harness, 98, 154, 

fig- 57 
examples, 154 
illustration list, 158 



240 



INDEX 



One-shaft treadle loom, 
implement, 156 

batten, 106, 153, 154, 156, figs. 57- 

59 
beams, 89-91 

cloth, 90, 91, 154, 156, figs. 57-59 
warp, 89, 91, IS4. 156, figs. 57^59 
frame, 108, 154, 156, figs. 58, 59 
shed-rod, 97, 153, 154, 156, figs. 

57-59 
shaft-heddle, 97, 98, 153, 154, 156, 

figs. 57-59 
shuttle, loi, 102, 154, 156, figs. 57- 

59 
treadle, 98, 153, 156, figs. 58, 59 
warping device, no, 156 
weaver's belt, 91, 108, 154, 156, 157 
in Bedouin desert, 98 
in India, 89, 154 
Japanese loom, 98, 153-158 
loom mounting, 84, 157 
magazine illustration, 223 
most elementary use of foot power, 

98, 153 
outline, 154 

power, 97, 98, 113, 153, 154, 156 
process, 157 

battening, 84, 157 
beaming, 84, 157 
heddling, 84, 157 
picking, 84, 157 
shedding, 84, 157 
warping, 84, 157 
warp adjusting, 157 
transitional loom, 98, 108, 153 
warp devices, 154 
warp lengthening, 89-91, 154 
weft devices, 154 
wefting, 84, 157 
Origin of textiles, 
spinning, i, 2, 3 
weaving, i, 2, 4, 80 
Outline studies, 

of spinning, 18, 21, 25. 30, 37, 43, 

SI, 56, 60, 64, 72 
of weaving, 114, 119, 126, 130, 136, 
149, 153, 158, 168, 185, 192, 
199 
Over and under weaving, 93, 114, 115 



Pattern cards, 100, 195, 196, figs. 83-85 
Pattern shedding, 93, 100, 185-187, 

192-196, figs. 77-81, 83-85 
Pattern weaving, 93, 94, 95, 99, 100, 
IDS, 185-188, 192-196, figs. 
77-Si, 83-85 
Peg warping, no, 139, 163, 172, 202, 

fig. 70 
Penelope's loom, 103, 119-121, fig. 38 
Perfected hand loom, 168-185, figs. 66- 
76 • 

bibliography, 179 
characteristics, 168 
developing, 112 
beams, 87, go, 91 
frame, 108, 168 
general mechanism, 112, 168 
shuttle, 102-104, 168 
Drop box shuttle, 104, 175, 178, 

fig. 76 
economics, 87, 108, 112 
in cloth, 178 
in production, 178 
examples, 168 
first stretched warp for long webs, 

87, 178 
first united mechanism, 112, 168, 178 
Fly-shuttle, 103, 168, 171, fig. 69 
Fly-shuttle at work, 103, 171, 175, 

fig- 75 
Greek loom of Middle Ages, 168- 

179, fig. 66 
Hand shuttle (bobbin shuttle), 102, 

168, 171, fig. 68 
Hand shuttle at work, 102, 175, fig. 

74 
Hungarian peasant warping, in, 

172, fig. 71 
illustration list, 181 
implement, 169 

batten, 105, 106, 168, 172, figs. 

66, 67, 73-76 
beams, 168 

cloth, 90, 91, 168, 170, figs. 66, 

67, 73 

warp, 89, 168, 170, figs. 66, 67, 
72, 73 
frame, 107, 108, 168, 169, figs. 66, 
67, 72 



INDEX 



241 



Perfected hand loom, implement, 

shaft-heddles, 98-100, 168, 170, 

figs. 66, 67, 72, 73 
shuttle, 102-104, 168, 171, 172, 

figs. 66, 68, 69, 74-76 
treadles, 99, 113, 168, 171, fi.gs. 

66, 67, 73 
warping device, no, in, 172, figs. 
70, 71 
Loom prepared for entering, fig. 72 
magazine illustration, 223 
outhne, 168 

Peg warping in India, no, fig. 70 
Perfected hand loom with fly-shuttle, 

fig. 67 
power, 100, 113, 172 
process, 172 

battening, 84, 172-178 
beaming, 84, 172 
heddling, 84, 172 
picking, 84, 172-178 
shedding, 84, 172-178 
warp adjusting, 84, 178 
warping, 84, 172 
Shed opening mechanism, fig. 73 
warp devices, 168 
warp lengthening, 89, 91 
weft devices, 168 
wefting, 172-178 
Philippine spinning, 18-21, 24-26, fig. i 
Picardy wheel, 46 

Picking, 84, 93, 100-104, 114. lis. 121. 
128, 133, 139, 151, 157, 164, 
172, 188, 203 
Piece goods, 82 
Pima Indian spinning, 24-26 
Plain power loom, 199-206, figs. 86- 
89 _ 
automatic revolving beams, 91, 200 
bibliography, 203 

Cartwright's first power loom, fig. 86 
Cartwright's second power loom, 

fig. 87 
characteristics, 199 
continuous weaving, 91, 199-203 
development, 

beams, heddles, shuttle, batten, 

91, 112, 113 
power, 113, 199, 202 



Plain power loom, 

economics, 91, 108, 109, 112 

in cloth, 203 

in production, 203 
example, 200 

first weaving machine, 199 
illustration list, 204 
implement, 200 

batten, 106, 119-201, figs. 87-89 

beams, 91, 1 19-201, figs. 87-89 

driving gear, 201 

frame, 109, 200, figs. 87, 89 

shaft-heddles, 200, 201, figs. 87-89 

shuttle, 200, 201 

stop motion devices, 201 

warping device, in, 202 
loom mounting, 202 
outline, 200 
power, 113, 202 
process, 202 

battening, 84, 203 

beaming, 84, 202 

heddling, 84, 202 

picking, 84, 203 

shedding, 84, 203 

warping, in, 202 
Roberts' power loom, 119-203, fig. 89 
Working parts of power loom, fig. 88 
Plaiting, 82 

Power loom (see Plain p. 1.) 
Power for spinning, 

hand, 6, 9, 12, 15, 16, 19, 22, 25, 30, 

38, 52, 60, figs, i-ii, 17-20, 23, 24 
hand and foot, 11, 16, 17, 38, 47, figs. 

12-16 
mechanical, 6-8, 17, 56, 60, 65, 74, 

figs. 21-29 
Power for weaving, 

foot, 100, 113, IS3, 156, 163, 172, 

188, 192, figs. 58, 59, 61, 62, 64-67, 

73, 77, 78 
hand, 97, 98, 112, 114, 120, 128, 132, 

139, ISO, 153, 154, 156, 163, 172, 

188, 192, figs. 57-62, 64-67, 74- 

78 
mechanical, in, 112, 113, 199, 202 
Primitive, 

spinning, 1-3, 7, 9, 12, 14, iS-32, 

figs. i-S 



242 



INDEX 



Primitive, 

weaving, 1-3, 80-82, 86, 93, 94, loi, 
104, 109, 114-116, 126-151, figs. 
30-34, 4i-49> 52-57, 62 
Processes {see S. and W. types), 
spinning, 4-17 
weaving, 83-113 
Pulley box, 187, fig. 81 

Reed batten, 

free, 106, 156, figs. 52, 57, 58, 62 
supported, 106, 200, 201, figs. 87-89 
suspended, 106, 153, 154, 156, 161, 
163, i58, 172, 186, 193, figs. 59, 6[, 
64,65, 67, 74-78 
Ring spinning frame, 71-74, fig. 28 
Roberts' loom, 199-203, fig. 89 
Rod-heddle, 95-96, 105, 119, 120, 127, 
131, 133, 136, 138, figs. 35-40, 44- 
46, 48, 49, SI, 54 
Rove bobbins, 51-53, 56, 57, 60, 61, 
64, 66, 72, 74, figs. 17-19, 26 

Salish Indian, 

spinning, 21-23, fig- 2 

weaving, 86, 126-129, fig. 43 
Saxony wheel, 43-51, figs. 12-16 

accelerating spindle, 13, 43, 48 

accelerating treadle, 16, 17, 43, 48 

automatic winding, 13, 43, 48 

bibliography, 48 

characteristics, 43 

developing agencies, 15-17 

earliest continuous spinning, 13, 15, 43 

economics, 13, 15-17 
in production, 48 
in yarn, 48 

example, 43 

illustration list, 49 

implement, 43 

distaff, 8, 43, 46, 47, fig. 13 
drive bands, 11, 46, 47, figs. 12, 16 
drive wheel, 11, 46, figs. 12, 13, 16 
flyer and bobbin spindle, 12, 13, 
43, 46, figs. 12, 14-16 
one spindle, 46 
two spindles, 46 
standard, 46 
treadle, 11, 16, 46 



Saxony wheel, 
Leonardo da Vinci's spindle, fig. 14 
magazine illustration, 219 
motion, 15, 43, 47 
outline, 43 
Picardy wheel, 46 
power, 17, 43, 47 
process, 48 

attenuating, 8, 48 

twisting, II, 12, 48 

winding, 13, 48 
Saxony spindle at work, fig. 16 
Saxony spindle, fig. 15 
Spinning cotton on Saxony wheel, 

fig. 12 
Spinning flag on Saxony wheel, fig. 13 
Scandinavian loom, fig. 39 
Self-acting mule, 64-70, fig. 25 
bibliography, 67 
characteristics, 64 
economics, 8, 9, 15 

in output, 67 

in yarn, 67 
example, 64 
first fine yarn spun without manual 

help, 64 
Four stages of mule spinning, fig. 25 
Hand mule enlarged and perfected, 

64 _ 
illustration list, 69 
implement, 64, 65 

carriage with spindles, 8, 64, fig. 25 

counter-faller wire, 64, fig. 25 

creel with rove bobbins, 66 

draft rollers, 8, 64, fig. 25 

faller-wire, 64, fig. 25 

frame, 64, fig. 25 

headstock, 64, 65 

spindles, 12, 13, 64, fig. 25 
intermittent spinning, 12, 13, 15, 66 
outline, 64 
power, 17, 65 
process, 66 

attenuating, 8, 9, 66 

twisting, 12, 13, 66 

winding, 13, 66 

Roberts' mule, 64-67 

Sequence in chronology, 2 

Sequence of motions, 112 



INDEX 



243 



Serape, 82 

Shaft-heddle, 93, 96-100, 105, 106, 149, 

150, 153. 154, 156, IS7. 161, 163, 

164, 168, 170, 172, 185-188, 200, 

201, figs. 55-62, 64-67, 72, 73, 77, 

78, 80, 81, 87-89 
Shedding, 84, 93-100, 114, 115, 121, 

128, 133, 139, 151, 157, 164, 172, 

188, 196, 203 
Shedding device, 84, 93-100 

double harness, 100, 185-189, figs. 

77-81 
Jacquard harness, 93, 100, 192-196, 

figs. 83-85 
none, 93, 94, 114, 126, 127, 131, 136, 

138, figs. 30, 31. S3, 34. 41-43. SO. 

52 
one-shaft heddle, 96, 149, 150, figs. 

55. 56 
shed-rod, 94, 119, 120, 131, 133 
shed-rod and rod-heddle, 94-97, 105, 

119, 120, 126, 127, 131, 133, 136, 

138, 139, figs. 35-40. 44-46. 48, 49, 

51, 54 
shed-rod and one shaft-heddle, 97, 

153, 154. 156, figs. 57-5Q 

two shaft-heddles, 93, 98-100, 161, 
163, 168, 170, 200, 201, figs. 60-62, 
64-67, 72, 73, 87-89 
Shedding harness, 

double, 100, 185-187, figs. 77-81 
Jacquard, 93, 100, 192-196, figs. 83- 

85 
single, 99, 156, 161, 163, 170, figs. 
57-62, 64-67, 72, 73 
Shed-rod (stick), 94-98, 119-121, 127, 
128, 131-133. 136, 138. 139. 153. 

154, 156, 157, figs. 35-40, 44-46. 
48, 49, SI, 54. S7-SQ 

Shuttle, 100-104 

bobbin, 102, 131, 154-157, 161, 163, 

168, 171, 175-179, 186, 193, figs. 

58, 59, 61, 66, 68, 74, 77 
drop-box, 104, 168, 172, 178, 193, 

201, fig. 76 
fly, 103, 108, 168, 171, 175-179, 186, 

193, 201, figs. 67, 69, 75 
needle, loi, 102, 105, 128, 138, 156, 

figs. 39. 57 



Shuttle, 

none, loi, 114, 126, 127, 131, 136, 
138, figs. 30-34, 41-43. 50, SI. 54 
stick, 102, 103, 119, 120, 128, 131, 
136, 138, 149, ISO, 156, 161, 163, 
figs. 35. 37. 38, 40, 46, 52, 55. S6, 
60, 62 
Shuttle-race, 103, 104, 171, 172, 175, 

178, 201, figs. 74-76 
Siberia, Koryak spinning, 18-20 
Sicilian peasant spinning, 18-20 
Silk warping in ancient China, fig. 

82 
Simple cords, 185, 187, fig. 81 
Slave Indian belt loom, fig. 52 
Sleepers, 186, figs. 80, 81 
Spindle, 4-6 

automatic winding (bobbin spindle), 
13-14. 43-48, 56-57, 72-74, figs- 
12-16, 21, 22, 26-29 
early, 4, 9, 10 
free, 7-12, 14-16, 21-22, 24-25, 29- 

30, figs. 2-9 
mounted, 11 

on frame, 5-9, 12, 13, 15, Si-S4. 

56-57. 59-62, figs. 17-24 
on machine, 7-9, 12-15, 64-67, 

72-74, figs. 25-29 
on wheel, 8, 11-17, 36-39, 43-48, 

figs. 10-16 
non-winding, 12, 21-22, 24-26, 29- 

31, figs. 2-9 
winding, 12-14 

bobbin sp., 43-48, 56-57. 7i-7S. 

figs. 12-16, 21, 22, 26-29 
shaft sp., 36-39. Si-54. 59-67. figs. 
10, II, 17-20, 23-25 
Spindle bobbins, 12, 13, 43, 48, 56, 57, 

72, figs. 14-16, 27-29 
Spinning, 1-79 
ancient, 3, 4, 10 
beginnings, 5 

bibliographies of (see ibid.) 
continuous, 13, 15, 43, 5 6, 72, figs. 

12-16, 21, 22, 26-29 
definition, 4, 5 
development, 5, 6, 14-17 
early, 3, 4, 
ideals, 5 



244 



INDEX 



Spinning, 
illustration lists {see ibid.) 
intermittent, 12, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 

30, 37, 51. 59, 64 
origin, 3, 10 
prehistoric, 1-4 
tribes and peoples, 

African, figs. 3, 6, g 

Alaskan Indian, 18-21 

Algerian, fig. g 

Alpine, 2g-3i, fig. 8 

Am. Indian of N. W., g, 18-20 

Asiatic, 8, 10—12, 14, 16, 24-26, 
29-31, 36-39, fig. 10 

Brunswick, 36-3g 

Chinese, 11, 36-3g 

Dacca, 7, 10, 11, 24-26 

Egyptian, 10, 2g-3i, figs. 3, 6 

European, 8, 11, 2g-3i, 36-74, 
figs. 7, 8, ii-2g 

Greek, 10 

Hungarian, 29-31, fig. 7 

India, 7, lo-ii, 36-39, fig. 10 

Koryak, 18-20 

Kwakiutl Indian, 24-26, fig. 5 

Lake-dwellers, 29-31, fig. 8 

Mediterranean countries, 8 

Mexican, 24-26 

Navajo, 24-26, fig. 4 

New World, 10 

Old World, 10 

Philippine, 18-20, 24-26, fig. i 

Picardy, 46 

Pima Indian, 24-26 

Salish Indian, 21-23, %• 2 

Siberian, 18-20 

Sicilian, 18-20 

Tlinget Indian, 18-20 
Spinning, 1000 B.C., fig. 8 
Spinning development {sec S. types), 
in attenuation, 6-9 
in twisting, 9-12 
in weaving, 12-14 
Spinning frame, 5, 7, 51-62, figs. 17-24 
Hand mule, 9, 12, 13, 15, 59-62, 

figs. 23, 24 
Jenny, 8, 12, 13, 15, 51-54, figs. 17-20 
Water frame, 8, 12, 13, 15, 56-57, 

figs. 21, 22 



Spinning implement {see spindle) 
Spinning machine, 5, 7, 64-75, figs. 
25-29 
Cap spinning frame, 8, 12, 14, 15, 

71-74, figs. 26, 29 
Flyer spinning frame, 8, 12, 14, 15, 

71-74, figs. 26, 27 
Ring spinning frame, 8, 12, 14, 15, 

71-74, fig. 28 
Self-acting mule, 9, 12, 13, 15, 64- 
67, fig- 25 
Spinning motion, 

continuous, 13, 15, 43, 56, 72 
intermittent, 12, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 
30, 37, SI, 59i 64 
Spinning processes, 4-17 
attenuating, 4-6 

by carriage and rollers, 7-g, sg- 

62, 64-67 
by drawing, 6-g, 18-20, 56-57, 71- 

74 
by drawing and stretching, 6-g, 

29-31, 59-62, 64-67 
by hand, 6-8, 18-19, 24-26, 36- 

39, 43-47 
by hand and spindle, 6-8, 29-31 
by moving carriage, 7-g, 51-53 
by rollers, 7-9, 56-57, 7i-74 
by spindle and ring, 6-7, 21-23 
by stretching, 6-8, 18-19, 21-23, 
24-26, 36-39, 43-47, 51-53 
twisting, 4-6 

by free spindle, 10, 21-23, 24-26, 

29-31 
by hand, 9, 18-19 
by mounted spindle, 11-12, 36- 
39, 43-47, 51-53, 56-57, 59- 
62, 64-67, 71-74 
winding, 4 

by hand, 12, 18-19, 21-23, 24-26, 

29-31 
by hand and spindle, 12-13, 29-31 
by spindle, 13-14, 43-47, 56-57, 

71-74 
by spindle and moving carriage, 
13, 51-53, 59-62, 64-67 
Spinning types, 

XI Flyer, Cap and Ring spinning 
frames, 71 



INDEX 



245 



Spinning types, 

II Grasped hand spindle, 21 
IX Hand mule, 59 

I Hand spinning, 18 
VII Jenny frame, 51 

V Jersey and Asiatic wheels, 36 
VI Saxony wheel, 43 
X Self-acting mule, 64 
III Supported hand spindle, 24 
IV Suspended hand spindle, 29 
VIII Water frame, 56 
Spinning wheel, 5, 6, 36-48, figs. 10-16 
Asiatic, 8, 11-14, 16, 36-39, fig. 10 
Brunswick, 36-39 
Chinese, 11, 36-39 
driven by hand, 11, 36-39, figs. 10, 

II 
driven by hand crank, 38, fig. 10 
driven by treadle, ii, 16, 37, 38, 46, 

48, figs. 12, 13 
for cotton, fig. 10 
for flax, fig. 13 
for wool, fig. II 

Jersey, 8, 11-14, 16, 36-39, fig. 11 
of India, 11, 36-39, fig. 10 
one-band, 36-39, 43-48, figs. 10, 11 
Picardy, 46 
Saxony, 8, 11-13, 15-17, 43-48, figs. 

12-16 
two-band, 43-48, figs. 12-16 
Stake warping, no, 121, 128, 131, 138, 

ISO, 156, 163, figs. 47, 53, 63 
Stick-batten, 105, 119-120, 128, 131, 
136, 138, 149, 150, 161, 163, 168, 
172, figs. 39, 40, 44-46, 48, 50, 51, 
54-56, 60, 66 
Stick-shuttle, 102, 103, 119, 120, 128, 
131, 136, 138, 149, 150, 156, 161, 
163, figs. 35, 37, 38, 40, 46, 52, 55, 
56, 60, 62 
Stone Age, 81, 96 

Supported hand spindle, 24-28, figs. 
4, 5 
A Kwakiutl Indian spinner, fig. 5 
bibliography, 26 
characteristics, 24 
economics, 5, 14, 16 
in production, 26 
in yarn, 26 



Supported hand spindle, 
examples, 25 

illustration Ust, 28 

implement, 7, 8, 10, 24, 25 
intermittent spinning, 12, 24 
magazine illustration, 216 
outhne, 25 
power, 16, 25 
process, 25 

attenuating, 7, 8, 25 

twisting, 10, 16, 25 

winding, 12, 25 
The Navajo method of twisting, 
fig- 4 
Suspended hand spindle, 29-36, figs. 6-9 
Ancient Egyptian spinners. Middle 

Kingdom, fig. 6 
bibliography, 32 
characteristics, 29 
distaff, 8, 29, 30, fig. 7 
double drafting, 7, 29-31 
economics, 5, 7, 14, 16 

in production, 31 

in yarn, 31 
examples, 30 
illustration list, 34 
implement, 7, 10, 12, 29, 30, figs. 6-9 
intermittent spinning, 12, 30 
magazine illustration, 217 
most perfect hand drafting, 7 
most perfect hand spinning, 10 
outhne, 30 
power, 16, 30 
process, 30 

attenuating, 7, 29, 30 

twisting, 10, 29, 31 

winding, 12, 31 
Spinning in the Alps, about 1000 B.C., 

fig. 8 
Suspended-spindle spinning, Hun- 
gary, fig. 7 
Winding yarn on spindle, Algeria, 
fig. 9 

Tail cords, 185, 187, fig. 81 
"Take-on," 84, 91, 112, 157, 164, 178, 

200 
Teakwood spinning wheel, 37 
Tereno-Indian loom, 126-129, fig. 42 



246 



INDEX 



Textile beginnings, 1-4, 80-82 
Textile industry, 
ancient, i, 80 
beginnings, 1-4, 80, 81 
doth making, 80-113 
early, 1-4, 80-82 
Industrial Revolution, 6, 100 

progress in, 5-17, 81, 85-113 
spinning types, 18-79 
stimulating force in, i 
story of, 1-17, 80-113 
weaving types, 114-206 
yarn making, 3-17 
Tlinget Indian, 
spinning, 18-21 
weaving, 114-116, figs. 30-34 
Treadle (of loom), 98, 100, 113, 153, 156, 
161, 163, 164, 168, 171, 185, 188, 
figs. s8, 59, 62, 64, 65-67, 73, 77, 78 
Treadle (of spinning wheel), 11, 16, 17, 

37, 38, 46, 48, fig- 12 
Treadle board, 98, 156, 171, figs. 59, 66 
Treadle ring, 98, 156, 163, figs. 58, 65 
Treadle wheels, 11, 16, 17, 36-39, 43- 

48, figs. 12-16 
Tribes and Peoples, Spinning, 
African, 10, 29-31, figs. 3, 6, 9 
Alaskan, 18-20 
Algerian, fig. 9 
Alpine, 29-31, fig. 8 
Am. Indian, 9, 18-20, 21-23, 24-26, 

figs. 2, 4, 5 
Asiatic, 8, 10-12, 14, 16, 24-26, 29- 

31. 36-39, fig. 10 
Chinese, 11, 36-39 
Egyptian, 10, 29-31, figs. 3, 6 
English, 36-79, figs. 10-29 
European, 8, 29-79, figs. 7, 8, 11-29 
Greek, 10 
Hungarian, fig. 7 
India, 7, lo-n, 36-39, fig. 10 
Koryah, 18-20 
Kwakiutl, 24-26, fig. 5 
Lake-dwellers, fig. 8 
Mediterranean peasants, 8 
Mexican, 24-26 
Natives of New World, 10 
Natives of Old World, 10 
Navajo Indian, 24-26, fig. 4 



Tribes and Peoples, Spinning, 
Northwest coast Indian, 9, 18-20 
PhiHppine, 18-21, 24-26, fig. i 
Pima Indian, 24-26 
Salish Indian, 21-23, fig- 2 
Siberian, iS-20 
Sicilian peasant, 18-20 
Tlinget, 18-20 
Tribes and Peoples, Weaving, 

African, 89, 90, 107, 126-129, 136- 

141, 158-165, figs. 44, 50, 51, 62, 64 
Ainu, 83, 106, 136-141, 154 
Alaskan Indian, 114-116, figs. 30-34 
Alpine, 119-121, fig. 35 
American Indian, 83, 91, loi, 107, 

116, 114-116, 126-151, figs. 30-34, 

41-49, 52-56 
Asiatic, 98, 99, 106, 112, 136-140, 

153-165, 185-189, figs. 57-61, 63, 

65, 70, 77, 78, 82 
Bedouin desert, 98 
British Guiana Indian, 126-129 
Calabar, W. Africa, 126-129, fig. 44 
Ceylon, 98, 154-1S7, fig- 57 
Chilkat, 114-116, figs. 31-34 
Chinese, 98, 106, 153-158, 1S5-188, 

figs. 59, 77, 82 
Colonial, 168-179 
Dunbar, India, 98, 153-157, fig. 57 
Eastern, 98, 99, 112 
Egyptian, 90, 91, 92, 96, loi, 104, 

107, III, 136-141, 158-165, figs. 50, 
51, 64 
English, 168-179, 199-203, figs. 67, 

75, 86-89 
European, 100, 112, 119-121, 168- 

202, figs. 35-40, 66-76, 79-81, 83- 

89 
French, 100, 168-179, 185-188, fig. 

81 
Greek, 103, 119-121, 168-179, figs. 

36-38, 66 
Holamux Indian, 126-129, fig. 41 
Hopi Indian, 149-15 1, fig. 56 
Hungarian, fig. 71 
Iceland, fig. 40 
India, 89, 92, 98, 99, no, 153-157, 

158-165, figs. 57, 60, 61, 63, 70 
Ishogo, 136-141 



INDEX 



247 



Tribes and Peoples, Weaving, 

Japanese, qS, 153-158, 185-188, fig. 

78 
Korean, 98, 153-158, fig. 58 
Lake-dwellers, 81, 96, 119-121, fig. 35 
Malay Islands, 103 
Mexican, 130-134, figs. 46-49 
Navajo Indian, 91, loi, 107, no, 
130-134, 136-141, figs. 45, 47-49, 
53, 54 
Neolithic, 81 
Northwest coast Indian, 83, 11 4-1 16, 

figs. 30-34 
Salish Indian, 86, 126-129, fig. 43 
Scandinavian, fig. 39 
Slave Indian, fig. 52 
Tereno Indian 126-128, fig. 42 
Tlinget Indian, 114-116, figs. 30-34 
Zuni, 14Q-151, fig- 55 
T'ipod support, 98, figs. 57, 62 
Twilled twine weaving, fig. 34 
Twined weaving, loi, 115, figs. 31, 

33, 34 
Twist, 

early use, 3, 4 ■ 
effect of, 4, 5 
function, 4, 5 
importance to spinning, 4 
origin, 3 
Twisted cords, 3, fig. 3 
Twisting, 4, 5, 9-12, 19, 22, 25, 26, 31, 

39,48, 53, 57, 61, 62, 66, 74 
Twisting implement, 
earliest, 3, 9 
free spindle, 9, 10, 21, 24, 25, 29, 30, 

figs. 2-9 
hand, 4, 5, 9, 18, 19, fig. i 
mounted spindle, 11, 12, 36-38, 43- 
45, SI, 52, 56, 59, 60, 64, 71, 72, 
figs. 10-29 
Two-band wheel, 43-48, figs. 12-16 (see 

Saxony wheel) 
Two-bar loom, 126-130, figs. 41-44 
Another crude two-bar loom, 126- 

129, fig- 42 
a transitional type, 126, figs. 41-44 
bibliography, 129 

British Guiana apron weaving, 126- 
129 



Two-bar loom. 

Calabar loom, 126-129, fig- 44 
characteristics, 126 
developing agency, 85 

warp stretching, 85, 86 

evolving cloth and warp beams, 
85-87 
direction of technic, 126 
economics, 85-87 

in cloth, 129 

in production, 129 
examples, 126 
Holamux Indian loom, 126-129, fig. 

41 
illustration list, 130 
implement, 126 

batten, 104, 105, 126, 128, fig. 44 

bars, 86, 126, 127, figs. 41-44 

frame, 107, 108, 126, 127, figs. 41- 
44 

shedding devices, 93-95, 126, 127, 
fig- 44 

shuttle, loi, 102, 126-128, figs. 57, 
60 

warping device, no, 128 
loom mounting, 84, 128 
outline, 126 
power, 112, 128 
process, 128 

battening, 84, 104, 105, 129 

beaming, 84, 86, 128 

heddhng, 84, 127, 132 

picking, 84, loi, 102, 128 

shedding, 84, 93-95, 128 

warp adjusting, 129 

warping, 84, 86, 128 
SaUsh Indian loom, 86, 126-128, fig. 

43 
Simple two-bar loom, 126-129, fig. 41 
Tereno Indian loom, 126-128, fig. 42 
warp devices, 86, 126 
warp length, 88 
warp stretching, 85, 86, 126 
weft devices, 93-95, 100-102, 104, 

126-128 
wefting, 84, 128 

West African loom, 126-129, fig- 44 
Two-beam loom, 136-149, figs. 50-54 
Ainu loom, 106, 136-141 



248 



INDEX 



Two-beam loom, 
bibliography, 141 
characteristics, 136 
development, 85 

beams for stretching, 87, 
beams for lengthening, go, 91, 
frame, 107, 108 

heddle, and shuttle, 93-95, loi, 
102 
direction of technic, 136 
economics, 86, 94, 95, 107 
in cloth, 141 
in production, 141 
Egyptian loom of Middle Kingdom, 
96, 92, 96, loi, 136-141, fig. 51 
Egyptian loom of New Kingdom, 90, 
92, 96, loi, 107, III, 136-141 
Egyptian mat loom, 90, 91, 104, 136- 

141, fig. so 
examples, 137 

first perfectly stretched warp, 87, 136 
illustration list, 144 
implement, 137 

batten, 104-106, 136, 138, figs. 50- 

52, 54 
beams, 87-gi 

cloth, 90, 91, 136, 138, figs, so, 

51,54 
warp, 90, 136, 138, figs. 50, 51, 
54 
frame, 86, 106-108, 137, 138, fig. 

50-52, 54 
rod-heddle, 95, 136, 138, figs. 51, 54 
shed-rod, 93-95, 136, 138, figs. 51. 

54 
shuttle, loi, 102, 136, 138, fig. 52 
warping-device, 109— in, 138, 139, 

fig- 53 
warp post, 86, 88, 107, 137 
weaver's belt, 86, 88, 107, 137, 

fig- 4S> S8, 59 
weaver's comb, 105, 136, 138, fig. 
60 
Ishogo loom, 136-141 
loom mounting, 139 
magazine illustration, 221 
Navajo loom, 91, loi, 107, no, 136- 

141, figs. 53, 54 
outline, 137 



Two-beam loom, 
power, 112, 139 
process, 139 

battening, 84, 139 
beaming, 84, 139 
heddhng, 84, 139 
picking, 84, 139 
shedding, 84, 133, 139 
warp adjusting, 140 
warping, 84, 139 
simplest loom for stretched warp, 87, 

136 
Slave Indian belt loom, fig. 52 
warp devices, 87, 136 
warp lengthening, 87-90 
warp stretching, 85, 87, 136 
weft devices, 94, 95, loi, 102, 104, 

105, 136, 13S 
wefting, 84, 139 
Two-shaft treadle loom, 158-168, figs. 
60-65 
Another crude loom from India, 158- 

168, fig. 60 
bibliography, 165 
characteristics, 158 ■ 
developing, 85 

battening, 105, 106 
beams, 89-92 
frame, 108 
shedding, 98, 99 
Egyptian loom. Middle Ages, 92, 

158-165, fig. 64 
economics, 98, 99, 108, 113 
in cloth, 165 
in production, 164 
examples, 161 

first perfect shedding, 98, 99, 161 
illustration list, 166 
implement, 

batten, 106, 161, 163, figs. 6i-6j2, 

64, 65 
beams, 158 

cloth, 90, 158, 161, figs. 60, 61, 

64, 65 
warp, 89, 158, 161, figs. 61, 64 
frame, 108, 158, 161, figs. 60-62, 64, 

65 
shaft-heddles, 98, 99, 161, 163, figs. 
60-62, 64, 65 



INDEX 



249 



Two-shaft treadle loom, 

implement, 

shuttle, 102, 161, 163, figs. 60-62 
treadles, 100, 113, 161, 163, figs. 62, 

65 
warping device, no, 163, fig. 63 
warp post, 8g, 15S, fig. 61 
weaver's belt, 108, 158, 161 
weaver's comb, 105, 163, fig. 60 

loom mounting, 84, 164 

magazine illustration, 223 

Outdoor loom of the hills, 158-165, 
fig. 61 

outline, 161 

power, 113, 163 

process, 

battening, 84, 105, 106, 164 
beaming, 84, 164 
heddling, 84, g8, 164 
picking, 84, 102, 164 
shedding, 84, 93, 98, 99, 164 
warp adjustment, 164 
warping, 84, no, 164 

Shawl loom, Asia, 158-165, fig. 65 

Stake warping, India, no, fig. 63 

warp devices, 161 

warp lengthening, 89 

weft devices, 161 

wefting, 164 

West African loom, 89, 158-165, fig. 
62 

Warp, 82—92, 109-111 {see W. types) 
Warp adjusting, 86, 89, 91, 112, 129, 
^ii, 134. 140, 151, 157, 164, 
178, 200, 201 
Warp arrangement, 85-92 {see W. 
types) 
devices for, 86, 88 
earliest, 85, 114, 115 
for lengthening, 87-92 

by automatic revolving beams, 91 

"let-off" and "take-on," 91 
by extension, 88, 89 
by revolving beams, 89-92 
cloth, 90-92 
warp, 89, 91, 92 
restrictions, 87, 88 
for stretching, 85-87 



Warp arrangement, for stretching. 

loose hanging, 86, 114, 115, figs. 
30-32 
stretched between beams, 87- 
92, 136-203, figs. 50-89 
weighted, 86, 87, 1 19-120, figs. 

35-40 
wrapped over bars, 86, 126-134, 
figs. 41-49 
in Africa, 89, 158-164, fig. 62 
in Egypt, 90-92, 136-141, figs. 50, 51 
in India, 89, 92, 158-164, figs. 57, 

60, 61, 65 
on Navajo looms, 91, figs. 54, 45, 46,49 
on Northwest coast looms, 11 4-1 16, 

figs. 30, 31 
on Salish looms, 86, 126-129, fig. 43 
Warp beam, 86-92 {see W. types) 
automatic, 91, 199-201, figs. 87-89 
identical with cloth beam, 86, 90, 

114, figs. 31-33 
Navajo, 91 
non-revolving, 90-92 
revolving, 89-92 
Warp devices, 85 

Warp post, 86, 88, 89, 107, 130, 132, 
137, 149, 150, 151, 158, 161, 164, 
figs. 45, 56, 61, 62 
Warp stretching, 85-89, 114, 115, 119, 
120, 126-203, figs. 30-32, 35-47. 
49-67, 70-73, 77, 78, 82, 83, 86-89 
Warp weights, 86, iig, 120, figs. 35-40 
Warping, 84, 86, 109-111 115, 121, 128, 
132, 139, 150, 157, 164, 172, 188, 
202 
Warping creel, in, 172, 202, fig. 82 
Warping device, 109-111 
machine, in, 202 
measuring staff, 109, 114, fig. 32 
mill, III, 139, 172, 202, figs. 71, 82 
none, 86, 128 

pegs, no, 139, 163, 172, 202, fig. 70 
stakes, no, 121, 128, 131, 138, 150, 
156, 163, figs. 47, 53, 63 
Warping machine, in, 202 
Warping mill, in, 139, 172, 202, figs. 

71, 82 
Warping pegs, no, in, 139, 163, 172, 
202, fig. 70 



250 



INDEX 



Warping reel, iii, 139, 172, 202, figs. 71. 

82 
Warping staff, 109, 114, fig. 32 
Warping stakes, no, 121, 128, 131, 
138, ISO, 156, 163, figs. 47, 53, 63 
Water frame, 56-59, figs. 21, 22 

Arkwright's first Water frame, 56, 

57, fig. 21 
Arkwright's improved Water frame, 

56, 57, fig. 22 
bibliography, 57 
characteristics, 56 
copied by, 59, 71 
earliest draft by drawing, 56 
earliest mechanical continuous spin- 
ning, 56 
earliest sp. mechanism driven from 

one point, 56 
economics, 8, 13, 15 
in output, 57 
in product, 57 
example, 56 
illustration list, 58 
implement, 56 

cog wheel, shaft and drum, 56, 

fig. 22 
creel of rove bobbins, 56 
draft rollers, 8, 56, fig. 22 
flyer-spindles, 12, 13, 56, fig. 22 
frame, 56, fig. 22 
outline, 56 
power, 56 
principle of, 56 
process, 
attenuating, 8, 9, 56 
presses all mechanical, 56, 57 
twisting, 12, 57 
winding, 13, 14, 57 
Weaver's belt, 86, 88, 91, 107, 108, 130- 
132, 137, 149, ISO, 154, 156, 157, 
158, 161, figs. 45, 55, 56, 58, 59 
Weaver's comb, 105, 106, 131, 136, 138, 

163, fig. 60 
Weaving (see W. types), 
age of, 80 
ancient, 81, 87, 99 (see Egyptian, 

Greek, Lake-dweller) 
basket, 82 
beginnings, i, 2, 80 



Weaving, 

bibliography (see ibid.) 

continuous, 91, 199-203, figs. 86-89 

defined, 82, 83 

development, 81, 85, 112 

early, 4, 80, 81 

entire weaving, 82 

filling (weft), 82-85, 93-106 {see W. 
types) 

first essential in, 85, 86 

first implements, 85 

foundation (warp), 82-92, 109-111 
{see W. types) 

illustration list {see ibid.) 

implement {see Looms) 

invention, 80, 81, 85-113 {see W. 
types) 

loom {see ibid.), 82, 83 

loom weaves, 82, 83 

mastery in, 81 

modern, 81, 82 

native materials, 81, 83 

native weavers, 2 

origin, 80, 81 

piece goods, 82 

primitive, 1-3, 80-82, 86, 93, 94, 
loi, 104, 109, 114-116, 126-151, 
figs. 30-34, 41-49, 52-57, 62 

principles of, 83, 112 

source, 80 

structure, 83 

tribes and peoples {ibid.) 

warp manipulation, 85, 92, 109-111 

warp stretching, 85-87 

warp weights, 86, 119,120, figs. 35-40 

weaver's belt {see ibid.) 

web lengthening, 87-92 

weft manipulation, 85, 93-109 
Weaving, 1000 B.C., 119, fig. 35 
Weaving, 500 B.C., 120, 121, figs. 36-38 
Weaving development {see W. types), 

in battening, 104-106 

in loom frame, 106-109 

in picking, 100-104 

in power, 112, 113 

in shedding, 93-100 

in unifying mechanism, 85, 112 

in warp arrangement, 85-92 

in warping, 109-in 



INDEX 



251 



Weaving implement {see Looms) 
Weaving processes, 83-113 
battening {see ibid.) 
beaming {see ibid.) 
direction of technic {see ibid.) 
heddling {see ibid.) 
" letting-off " and "taking-on" {see 

ibid.) 
loom mounting {see ibid.) 
picking {see ibid.) 
shedding {see ibid.) 
warp adjusting {see ibid.) 
warping {see ibid.) 
wefting {see ibid.) 
Weaving types, 81 

X Draw loom, i8s-ig2 
IV Frameless two-bar loom, 130- 

135 
XI Jacquard loom, 192-108 
I One-beam loom, 114-iig 
VI One-shaft loom, 149-^153 
VII One-shaft treadle loom, 153- 

158 
IX Perfected hand loom, 168-185 
XII Plain power loom, 199-206 
III Two-bar loom, 126-130 
V Two-beam loom, 136-149 
VIII Two-shaft treadle, 158-168 

II Weighted warp loom, 1 19-125 
Web lengthening, 87-92 
Weft, 82-85, 93-106 {see W. types) 
Weft devices, 85, 93-106, 114, 119, 126, 

131 
Wefting, 84, 93-106, 115, 121, 128, 133, 
139, 151, 157, 164, 172, 188, 203 
Weighted warp loom, 1 19-125, figs. 

35-40 
Alpine weaver, fig. 35 
bibliography, 122 
characteristics, 119 
Circe loom, Ashmolean Mus., fig. 37 
development, 85 

warp stretching, 86, 119 

wefting, 93-96, 100-102, 104, 105, 
119 
direction of technic, 119 
economics, 85, 86, 94 

in cloth, 121 

in production, 121 



Weighted warp loom, 
examples, 119 

Greek loorri, 119-121, figs. 36-38 
Greek weaver, British Mus., fig. 36 
Icelandic loom, 11 9-1 21, fig. 40 
illustration list, 124 
implement, 119, 120 

batten, 104, 105, 119, 120, figs. 39, 
40 

beam, 86-88, 119, 120, figs. 36-40 

frame, 107, 108, 120, figs. 36-40 

rod-heddle, 95, 119, 120, figs. 35-40 

shed-rod, 94, 119, 120, figs. 35-40 

shuttle, loi, 102, 119, 120, figs. 37- 
39 

warping device, no, 121 

weights, 86, 119, 120 
Lake-dweller loom, 96, 119-121 
loom mounting, 84, 121 
magazine illustration, 221 
outline, 119 
Penelope's loom, 103, 119-121, fig. 

38 
power, 112, 120 
process, 121 

battening, 84, 105, 121 

beaming, 84, 121 

heddling, 84, 132 

picking, 84, 102, 121 

shedding, 84, 94, 95, 121 , 

warping, 84, no, 121 
Scandinavian loom, fig. 39 
warp devices, 86, 119 
warp lengthening, 87, 88 
warp stretching, 86, 119 
weft devices, 93-96, 100-102, 105, 

119 
wefting, 84, 121 
Winding, 4, 12-14, 19, 22, 25, 26, 31, 

39, 48, S3, 57, 61, 62, 66, 74 
defined, 4 
Winding device 

hand, 12, 18, 19, 21, 22, 24, 25, 30, 31, 

fig- 9 
hand and spindle, 12, 13, 37, 39 
spindle, 13, 14, 43, 48, 56, 72-73, 

figs. 12, 22, 26-29 
spindle and moving carriage, 13, 51, 

53, 59, 61, 62, 64, figs. 18, 25 



252 



INDEX 



Wool wheel {see Jersey wheel) 
Wrapped weaving, loi, 115 

Yarn, 

characteristics, 4, 5 

early, 3, 4 

economic aims, 5 

frame spun, 51-62 

gain factors, 8, 14-16, 19, 22, 26, 31, 

39, 48, 53, 57, 62, 67, 74 
hand spindle spun, 21-32 
hand spun, 18-20 
improved quality, 5, 6, 20, 23, 26, 31, 

4*0, 48, 54, fl, 62, 67, 75 
increased production in, 5, 6, 20, 22, 

26, 31, 30, 48, S3, 57, 62, 67, 74 
machine spun, 64-75 
prehistoric, 4 
story of, 1-17 
uses of, 3, 4 
wheel spun, 36-48 
Yarn making, 1-79 {see Spinning, S. 

processes, S. types and Spindle) 
beginnings, i, 2 
chronological sequence, 2 



Yam making, 

defined, 4 

development n, i 2, 5-17 {see In- 
creased production) 

early, 3, 4 

economic progress in, 5-17 {see Im- 
proved product) 

implement {see Spindle) 

incentive to, i 

means for {see S. implement) 

mechanical science involved, 5-17 
{see S. types) 

native materials for, 3 

native spinners, 2 

obstacles to, i, 2 

origin of, 3, 4 

periods of invention, 5, 6 

processes of {see S. processes) 

requirements, 4 

stimulating force in, i 

story of, I -1 7 

yarn essentials, 4, 5 

Zuni Indian belt weaver, 149-151, fig. 
55 



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'T'HE following pages contain advertisements of a 
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Textiles 

A Handbook for the Student and the Consumer 

BY 

MARY SCHENCK WOOLMAN, B.S. 

President of the Women's Educational and Industrial Union, Boston, acting head 

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Professor of Domestic Art in Teachers College 



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Instructor in Household Arts in Teachers College, Columbia University 
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